Krowne rust protection done
#1
Krowne rust protection done
So I went in to get the rust protection done. I was hesitant right up to the last moment on doing this... I don't know, I guess getting holes drilled in your car doesn't sound too appealing. But having said that, I saw way too many Gs starting to rust when I was car shopping for a used one and because I will spend a lot of time on the road in the winter (going skiing/boarding) I decided to go for it.
Here is what I can say so far...
- Not too many holes drilled. I can get a count later on.
- The holes don't stand out that much because the plugs they use could look like something that came from the factory.
- The car is really OILY... like wow! I can't wait to wash the car. They cleaned the windows due to the overspray, but still they are pretty smudged up.
- I was warned that the brakes will have some overspray... and man was it noticeable... you definetly need to give some extra braking space while it all comes off.
- There was a little bit of smoke coming from the engine bay due to some of the overspray burning off once the engine warmed up... they warned me about it, but still, when you see this and how the car is oily it almost feels like you're driving some beater.
- Lots of oil run off in my office parking spot... definetly try to avoid your own driveway especially RIGHT after it's done (I got mine done in the morning and then went to work so it wouldn't be coming straight home).
I'm glad this is a once a year thing. I guess time will show if this was worthwhile.
Also, they told me that it's better to get it done in the warmer months because that allows for the rust inhibitor to better flow into all the weld seams and so on. In case you are thinking of getting it done but waiting closer to the winter, probably better to get it done now.
Here is what I can say so far...
- Not too many holes drilled. I can get a count later on.
- The holes don't stand out that much because the plugs they use could look like something that came from the factory.
- The car is really OILY... like wow! I can't wait to wash the car. They cleaned the windows due to the overspray, but still they are pretty smudged up.
- I was warned that the brakes will have some overspray... and man was it noticeable... you definetly need to give some extra braking space while it all comes off.
- There was a little bit of smoke coming from the engine bay due to some of the overspray burning off once the engine warmed up... they warned me about it, but still, when you see this and how the car is oily it almost feels like you're driving some beater.
- Lots of oil run off in my office parking spot... definetly try to avoid your own driveway especially RIGHT after it's done (I got mine done in the morning and then went to work so it wouldn't be coming straight home).
I'm glad this is a once a year thing. I guess time will show if this was worthwhile.
Also, they told me that it's better to get it done in the warmer months because that allows for the rust inhibitor to better flow into all the weld seams and so on. In case you are thinking of getting it done but waiting closer to the winter, probably better to get it done now.
#3
It was 100+tax. Regular is 110. When I called, I asked them if there was any promotion right now because I heard sometimes there are $10 off coupons. They told me it was over but would still be able to give the $10 off. The current regular price of $110 is locked for all future annual applications. I was told that they are supposed to have a price increase in January 2010... otherwise, the $110 has been in place for awhile I think.
#4
Hey, that's some good information.
I have a rust proofing appointment this Saturday morning with Rust Check, and I'm not too excited about the drilling of holes.
Do you have pictures of your engine bay after the application?
How bad does it look? Did they apply it to certain areas under the hood only, or did they just open the hood and go nuts?!
How does the trunk area look?
There's no excessive oil dripping onto the carpets or anything, right?
You're right, it's better to get the vehicle protected during the warmer months, so it flows everywhere.
I have a rust proofing appointment this Saturday morning with Rust Check, and I'm not too excited about the drilling of holes.
Do you have pictures of your engine bay after the application?
How bad does it look? Did they apply it to certain areas under the hood only, or did they just open the hood and go nuts?!
How does the trunk area look?
There's no excessive oil dripping onto the carpets or anything, right?
You're right, it's better to get the vehicle protected during the warmer months, so it flows everywhere.
#5
Good job with the Krown.
I have always gotten my long term vehicle (my trucks) done with Rust Check, where I keep them as long as 15-16 years.
I never bothered with my Gs since I have been updating them every couple of years .
This year I am planning on just getting the underneath of my 09 FX35 done with Rust Check Coat & Protect, just to help with the effects of salt on the bottom and undercarriage.
.
I have always gotten my long term vehicle (my trucks) done with Rust Check, where I keep them as long as 15-16 years.
I never bothered with my Gs since I have been updating them every couple of years .
This year I am planning on just getting the underneath of my 09 FX35 done with Rust Check Coat & Protect, just to help with the effects of salt on the bottom and undercarriage.
.
#6
Glad you're finding it useful. I figured I'd share because I was looking for some info as well before I did mine coming directly from a consumer.
Hey, that's some good information.
Do you have pictures of your engine bay after the application?
Got home when it was already dark, I will try to get some done for you tomorrow and post them up in the evening.
How bad does it look?
Not bad at all. Had a VERY quick look and basicly in the engine area from what I saw they sprayed the sides of the fenders where they stick out.... the area where the brake fluid cylinder is, but not the actual engine block. I also asked them about the fact that the hood is aluminum and perhaps doesn't require much rust protection... he said they would spray the area just around the latch which they did and there was some dripping from that on the plastic air duct.
Did they apply it to certain areas under the hood only, or did they just open the hood and go nuts?!
Definetly was selective application and not soaking it indiscriminatly. For example, the engine cover is completely dry. I doubt they actully removed it, but I will have a better look tomorrow again.
How does the trunk area look?
There was one hole drilled on each side of the back fender's lip which is visible when the trunk is opened. No drilling on the trunk. The trunk had some of the inhibitor applied to the weld seam on the lip visible from inside and the lock latch.
There's no excessive oil dripping onto the carpets or anything, right?
Nope, interior is clean. Before they got in the car they put some newspapers on the carpets and covered the seats. THe garage is very oily as well as the surrouding area outside so when I got in the car I kept the newspaper on the floor, then got to a gas station and wiped my shoes. I'd say bring a 2nd pair of shoes just in case. The oil will wipe off dry from your shoe soles if you use something like paper towel, but you definetly wouldn't want to carry it onto the carpet in the car. You could smell the inhibitor a bit inside the car but I think most of the smell is gone now. I'm assuming it just went throug the ventilation ducts.
You're right, it's better to get the vehicle protected during the warmer months, so it flows everywhere.
Do you have pictures of your engine bay after the application?
Got home when it was already dark, I will try to get some done for you tomorrow and post them up in the evening.
How bad does it look?
Not bad at all. Had a VERY quick look and basicly in the engine area from what I saw they sprayed the sides of the fenders where they stick out.... the area where the brake fluid cylinder is, but not the actual engine block. I also asked them about the fact that the hood is aluminum and perhaps doesn't require much rust protection... he said they would spray the area just around the latch which they did and there was some dripping from that on the plastic air duct.
Did they apply it to certain areas under the hood only, or did they just open the hood and go nuts?!
Definetly was selective application and not soaking it indiscriminatly. For example, the engine cover is completely dry. I doubt they actully removed it, but I will have a better look tomorrow again.
How does the trunk area look?
There was one hole drilled on each side of the back fender's lip which is visible when the trunk is opened. No drilling on the trunk. The trunk had some of the inhibitor applied to the weld seam on the lip visible from inside and the lock latch.
There's no excessive oil dripping onto the carpets or anything, right?
Nope, interior is clean. Before they got in the car they put some newspapers on the carpets and covered the seats. THe garage is very oily as well as the surrouding area outside so when I got in the car I kept the newspaper on the floor, then got to a gas station and wiped my shoes. I'd say bring a 2nd pair of shoes just in case. The oil will wipe off dry from your shoe soles if you use something like paper towel, but you definetly wouldn't want to carry it onto the carpet in the car. You could smell the inhibitor a bit inside the car but I think most of the smell is gone now. I'm assuming it just went throug the ventilation ducts.
You're right, it's better to get the vehicle protected during the warmer months, so it flows everywhere.
#7
Good job with the Krown.
I have always gotten my long term vehicle (my trucks) done with Rust Check, where I keep them as long as 15-16 years.
I never bothered with my Gs since I have been updating them every couple of years .
This year I am planning on just getting the underneath of my 09 FX35 done with Rust Check Coat & Protect, just to help with the effects of salt on the bottom and undercarriage.
.
I have always gotten my long term vehicle (my trucks) done with Rust Check, where I keep them as long as 15-16 years.
I never bothered with my Gs since I have been updating them every couple of years .
This year I am planning on just getting the underneath of my 09 FX35 done with Rust Check Coat & Protect, just to help with the effects of salt on the bottom and undercarriage.
.
I think I'd do the underneath for sure... with mine right now, the only area which has rust are the metal shields around the exhaust, not all that critical, but I'm sure if the previous owner did the rust protection then it would of went a long way towards minimizing or eliminating that rust alltogether.
Trending Topics
#9
G35fromToronto - Thank you for the responses.
I'll be sure to discuss everything AGAIN in detail with my applicator this weekend to ensure everything goes smoothly.
alphabit - I will be going to the RUST CHECK at the Markham and Finch location, right across the street from the McDonald's and Formula Honda. A lot of my friends and mechanics in the area recommended that place to me. I was told they do very good work!
Since you're from Scarborough, you probably know where the Quizno's used to be in the small plaza behind the the gas station? It's right there.
If you want to drop by on Saturday morning (my appointment is at 9:30am), feel free to do so. I'll be watching the whole process through the window and crying when I hear them drill holes in the car! (shieettt!!!) hahaha!
I'll be sure to discuss everything AGAIN in detail with my applicator this weekend to ensure everything goes smoothly.
alphabit - I will be going to the RUST CHECK at the Markham and Finch location, right across the street from the McDonald's and Formula Honda. A lot of my friends and mechanics in the area recommended that place to me. I was told they do very good work!
Since you're from Scarborough, you probably know where the Quizno's used to be in the small plaza behind the the gas station? It's right there.
If you want to drop by on Saturday morning (my appointment is at 9:30am), feel free to do so. I'll be watching the whole process through the window and crying when I hear them drill holes in the car! (shieettt!!!) hahaha!
#11
Correction on my earlier post, the trunk received two holes as well, one on right and left side. Just noticed them this morning. Looked at the engine bay again last night, I'd say it's very dry in there. For those interested, I'll post some sample pics up in the evening.
I got mine done at this Krowne location:
133 Midwest Road Scarborough, ON M1P 3A6 (416) 431 3693
Someone on here said good things about the guy who runs this shop so I went there. There was a closer location but even though drilling shouldn't take much skill, I figured I'd still play it safe.
I got mine done at this Krowne location:
133 Midwest Road Scarborough, ON M1P 3A6 (416) 431 3693
Someone on here said good things about the guy who runs this shop so I went there. There was a closer location but even though drilling shouldn't take much skill, I figured I'd still play it safe.
#12
Good update. I haven't used Crown specifically but have had all my new vehicles undercoated by a quality application for the last 20 years. No holes are drilled with my process. However, drilling a few holes and plugging them is a lot better IMO than a rusty car.
The couple of new cars before then I didn't have done rusted badly in 5-7 years - holes right through the floor, wheel wells etc and weakened frames. Nasty stuff. On the East Coast I will never have a vehicle that will be kept more than 3-4 years without having them done. The investment is recouped at sale time and although messy it's much easier to work on the car without the same amount of seized bolts etc.
A couple of used cars we bought had the same rusting issues but I minimized them with an $80 total car treatment (holes drilled) from Walmart and then annually underbody only for $40. They load the stuff on and it drips like an sob for about a week.
The couple of new cars before then I didn't have done rusted badly in 5-7 years - holes right through the floor, wheel wells etc and weakened frames. Nasty stuff. On the East Coast I will never have a vehicle that will be kept more than 3-4 years without having them done. The investment is recouped at sale time and although messy it's much easier to work on the car without the same amount of seized bolts etc.
A couple of used cars we bought had the same rusting issues but I minimized them with an $80 total car treatment (holes drilled) from Walmart and then annually underbody only for $40. They load the stuff on and it drips like an sob for about a week.
#13
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 21,095
Likes: 47
From: Toronto, GTA north
#15