If you're hearing knocking it's most likely the rods, I've been spamming the board a lot and I don't work them but they've been good to me lol, check out APH, they'll probably figure it out...

 

Ok just went through your DIY, wow, if you're interested in extra cash on helping out on doing this I've pm'ed you lol

 

I absolutely hated it when the G became a CLUNKER. Had LS done at 99km and the second at 110km.
I really like driving the G

 

Thanks. I sold my car at 40k so never had the experience.

 

My new set of compression rods for my 03 G35 coupe just showed up last night so I raised the car to look and see how hard this was going to be and made a quick attempt to loosen to bolt holding the compression rod to the chassis. I used a bar that was 3 foot long and couldn't budge the bolt. So I shot penetrating oil on all the bolts put the tire back on and called it a day.

I'll try it again in the next few days, I am sure the impact wrench will loosen it. Hopefully it wound be too much of a pain to change.

On the subject of changing your headlights (from earlier reflectors to projectors) for cars without DRL it is a simple ballast swap. On DRL equipped G35s a simple rewiring of the grounds are needed to fix the hyper blinking signal light problem.
Because the DRL were wired to the high beam bulbs of the reflector headlights this is a problem with the projectors because the high beam isn't another bulb, it is a solenoid. So without rewiring of your headlights the DRL will energize you high beam solenoid only. The solenoid raises and lowers a plate which blocks some of the light from the projectors which is your high and low beam.
Diagrams and all the information is posted here,

http://members.shaw.ca/theg35dude

 

^is it possible to rewire the grounds AND still not hook up the DRL?

 

Just had my compression rods and stabilizer links replaced... wow. Now I can't wait to get some 'Z' springs!

 

Yes rewiring the grounds is very easy, follow my link that I posted previously.

I just installed the compression rods, no more thumping noises when driving over rough roads, very pleased.
Biggest problem with the install was the seized bushings, they were very difficult; one was extremely difficult and required the use of a torch. It took hours to get them off and a matter of minutes to install the new ones and put everything back together. I put a thin layer of anti-seize compound on the bushing stud to prevent it seizing up again for a while.

I also almost messed it all up by not noticing and transferring the "tie rod" wedge shaped bushing from the old Compression rods to the new rods. If you forget you may notice that the ball joint ends fits into the steering knuckle very loosely without it.

 

Any tips for removing a seized bushing from the car stud? What did you use for heat and where?

 

what would cause knocking comming from the rear?

 

Soak everything down with penetrating oil, try to get it up into where the bushing area is and leave it a hour. This worked with the first one, I was pleasantly surprised when it came loose with the pry bar.

The torch method is when you have already messed around with it for hours and tried everything else but it still won't move and you have passed the point of no return.. Basically you try to heat up the bushing enough so that the bushing collar will expand enough to break free, overheat it and the stud will also expand, if so let it cool and try it again. Try not to heat/cool the stud too much, it may change the strength of the stud.

Last resort is to burn the rubber away down to the steel collar and work it from there. I finally resorted to using a saws-all to carefully cut and "peal" away the steel collar from the stud.

I also swear and yell at it a lot, sometimes it helps.

 

Looks like I'm going to have to heat it!!!!

 

Good luck, hopefully it won't fight you too much. Also having an impact wrench made things much easier.

Please be careful and make sure the car is well supported before going under it, I had a good friend of mine die when he was crushed under a 69 Beaumont, we got the motor off him and he got up and walked around for a few minutes then collapsed and died. I almost has the same thing happen to myself, being young and stupid I had only the bumper jack supporting a 1970 Chevelle when I was under it changing out the starter, it scared the crap out of me when the car moved sideways and almost fell onto me.

 

Hi
Took my 2004 G 35 to my dealer for an inspecton sticker, was told my left and right compression rod bushings were cracked and needed replacing. I was charged $37.68 for parts, $16.00 for shop supplies, and $240.00 for EACH bushing. Does anyone find that excessive? I'm in Houston, Texas.
Marty

 

check with riverside infiniti to see their prices, you might get a better deal from them.