Any ideas on how to work the clear bra.


(This is on Clearbra not the car) Was able to get some of the scuffs off the hood with some wax but a lot of it is still there. I'm not sure if the clear coat on my venture shield was taken off or whats still on the hood is rubber. Can't get it off. This is what it looks like now


Any help would be great...is there something i can do to try to get rid of the scuffs on the clear bra where the marks are. Recommendation on what to use?? Should i just replace it or just live with it for a while then replace it.

Thanks!!!

Detail on how to happen on this thread
https://g35driver.com/forums/care-detailing/155479-poor-car-help-how-fix-clear-bra.html

 

how do i get old wax off the unpainted plastic that the side mirrors are connected to?

 

Any tips for removing water spots on a black car?

Ive got some hard water spots on my hood. I spent three hours on the exterior of my car today using the method below, but they still remain visible to my eyes in certain lighting and angles.

Wash
Clay
Wash
Meguiars Cleaner Wax
Meg's Scratch-x
Meg's Cleaner Wax
Meg's Polish
Meg's Carnuaba Wax

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

 

PG35 - You could try out an abrasive polish as bigbadbooda mentioned in your thread on how it happened. Other than that, there's not much you can do, either live with it and be happy it was there to protect your paint or get that clear bra replaced.

Let us know how things turn out.

trueskillz12 - You could try a couple of things. 1 would just be a water : isopropyl alcohol mix (50/50) with a little elbow grease. A trim restorer product would be the next option.

I haven't tried this but I heard it has worked, you could try rubbing some smooth peanut butter on the trim, let it sit a few seconds and remove.

extreme4377 - First thing I'd try is a mixture of water and white vinegar just to make sure they aren't calcium deposits. If that doesn't do the trick, it sounds like you need to go to the next aggressive abrasive polish. I've seen some water spots that need as heavy as a wet sanding to completely remove, hopefully that is not the case. Were you applying the polish by hand or with a buffer?

George

 

Help! We had a flash flood in front of my house last night. My wifes car was caught in it and had water up to the grill. Luckily there wasn't a whole lot of water that got into the car, just in the passenger side rear on the floor.

I immediately got the wet vac and sucked out about 2 gallons of water and pulled up the carpet to let it air out a bit. I let a dehumidifier run over night in hopes that it would suck out some of the moisture.

I'm going home in a few hours to work on it a little more, but any additional advice for what I can do to make the best of the interior? It wasn't major damage by any means, so I want to take care of it as best I can.

Any recommendations? Specifically for anything to keep it from smelling at all? It was a creek that flooded, so it was "fresh" water, but who knows how clean it actually is. Thanks!

 

For the smell, I'd recommend keeping a plate of baking soda on the seats to help absorb any potential odors. Just make sure that before you drive you remove the plates of baking soda so that it doesn't get all over.

Once it dries completely, I'd recommend taking a light scrub brush along with some all purpose cleaner, like 303 Fabric Cleaner or Woolite, to help make sure you removed anything left behind by the flood.

Worse case scenario, if the smell is overwhelming, find a professional who has a fogger available.

Let us know how things turn out for you.

George

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I think I really lucked out by getting on things early. I sucked out all of the standing water with a wet/dry vac and pulled up the carpet. The dehumidifier ran all night and I put a small fan in the car to dry out what was left.

Following that, I sprayed lightly with simple green and gave it a gentle cleansing, followed by febreeze. Looks and smells great!

I am going to take your advice and follow this up with baking soda and woolite though. Funny thing is that my wife's car is cleaner now than it was before the flood! (...that sounds so redneck) Thanks!

 

Thanks George for the quick reply.

How much white vinegar sould I mix in with the water? Should I clay the car to remove any wax on it in order for the white vinegar to be effective? If not, will I need to wax the car again after I wash it with the water/vinegar mix?

Thank you!

 

I'm glad everything worked out for you. I'm sure she's pleased it flooded now that you've gotten the interior cleaner than before! The baking soda should help a bit, certainly worth doing.

Sorry for the delayed reply, I took a long weekend. I'd make a 50:50 mixture of vinegar and water in an empty spray bottle. The vinegar will remove any wax in its way so no need to clay, although it wouldn't hurt if you did. You will want to reapply your sealant or wax after treating it with the water & vinegar mixture.

Let us know how it turns out, if not, onto a more aggressive product than ScratchX.

George

 

George,

Could you list the different ways for removing "old wax" from your car so it would be prepped to clay bar?

Would the clay bar remove 100% of the old wax?

You mention vinegar will remove the wax, this is new to me. I am aware that a 50/50 mix of iso and water will do the same, correct?

 

You mentioned most of them...

• Water / Isopropyl Alcohol Mixture
• Water / Vinegar Mixture
• Wash w/ Dawn (or another dish detergent)
• Clay Bar
• Polish with an abrasive polish
• Polish with a chemical cleaner
• Using a 1 step product like a "cleaner wax" or an "All In One" will strip off previous protection and leave you with a fresh coat of wax or sealant

I'm sure there may be others but those are the most commonly used in the detailing industry.

Hope this helps.

George

 

I have a question for you... I have a Black sedan. I live near the port of LA and several oil refineries. It rained out here a month or so ago. It just so happend that I had ro drive my G to work that day. At night I parked my G in the garage and the car was still wet from the rain. It sat in the garge for about 5 days ( I drive my wifes car most of the time). When I came back to my G to wash it I noticed white hazy spots where the water had sat and dried on my car. These arnt water spots either.. looks almost like bleach. I have tried clay bar, and wax. Nothing touched this stuff. The finish is smooth as glass just spots. I dont know what else to try. I dont want to have to paint my roof, trunk, and hood over this. What can I do?

 

Have you tried a light abrasive polish? Something like ScratchX, which can be found locally, can be used to see if makes a dent on the spots. If that starts to make things better then you can keep going at it or use something a little more aggressive to cut down on the time spent polishing it.

Let us know how you make out.

George

 

George,

I've been reading through this thread, and would appreciate your advice for a relative newbie (I've washed and waxed cars before, but that's about it). I have a liquid platinum 2007 G35X, that is about 10 days old, so no swirl marks or anything. I usually wash my car every Friday evening (have not washed the new one yet), and would like to do something else to (a) protect the paint, and (b) to make the car look even better than it already does. Could you recommend a soap and and either wax, polish or other substance I could use?

 

Kromax, congratulations on the new car purchase! I'd recommend starting off on the right foot with the proper washing and drying tools so you help keep your finish relatively swirl free. You choose a color that does a good job hiding imperfections, however it is also a color that needs some work to REALLY get it to pop for you.

I'd suggest starting with your wash tools... a quality mitt and a good lubricating shampoo (I like Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds) will help minimize adding imperfections during the wash phase. Make sure you are using a 2 bucket wash system, ideally with your rinse bucket having a Grit Guard Insert as an added preventative measure to minimize adding imperfections.

For drying, I'd recommend using the sheeting method prior to even touching a towel on your paint. Following these steps will remove a majority of the water on the surface of the vehicle so that you minimize contact with your paint: After you have rinsed off your vehicle for the final time, remove your spray nozzle. Flood the surface of the vehicle from the top down. The flooding creates a "sheeting" effect that will self dry the vehicle. What I do is start from the top of the vehicle and move left to right with the hose. On the way back, right to left, lower the hose to the point where the water is falling and proceed to "catch" the falling water from your initial pass. Continue this method until you reach the bottom of the car. From there blot dry and absorb any of the remaining water with a quality waffle weave microfiber towel.

Consider using a fine grade clay bar on your paint if it's new to remove any stubborn contamination that may have settled onto the surface during the vehicles delivery.

Since you say you do not have swirls or imperfections, an abrasive polish is not needed at this time. As far as protecting your colored paint, I love the look of Poorboy's EX-P Sealant topped with P21s Concours Carnauba Wax.

This covers your paint. Let me know if you'd like any suggestions for protecting a new vehicles interior, wheels, glass care, engine bay care, etc.

I applaud you for wanting to take care of your vehicle correctly from day 1 rather than waiting for problems to occur and fixing them after the fact. Enjoy your new car!

George