George,

I have a clear bra on my car. But it seems to be a dust magnet. Within a day of washing the car there is a visible layer of dust on it that is very distracting. It makes the bra very noticable.

How can I keep it shiny clean as long as the rest of the car?

Thanks!

 

High finished wheels are tough to maintain properly because using the wrong product or too much contact with contamination will cause scratches in the metal that often cannot be polished out.

For really restoring wheels, I like how the P21s Finish Restorer works with this 2 sided metal polishing MF towel. The towel has one side for applying the product, and a thinner less textured side for removing the haze from the polish.

You want to make sure the surface is properly prepped prior to polishing, either with a wash with soap and water and a dedicated wheel wash mitt, or with a safe cleaner, such as the pH neutral P21s Wheel Gel.

I'd recommend following up your polishing job with a couple of thin coats of Poorboy's Wheel Sealant. This will make future cleanings significantly easier for you with just soap and water.

Let us know how you make out.

hoenignd - redlude97 (thanks) answered the same I would, or actually I prefer using the case that comes with the clay, especially if it is the ClearKote clay, it's a perfect size and seals tight. Add a mist or two of quick detailer either way you decide to store it.

wgmg35 - you could try a product designed for plastic that has anti-static characteristics, such as Plexus or Finish Kare's #425. Do you happen to put a coat of anything on your clear bra at the moment?

George

 

No, nothing at the moment. The car is new (1,800Km).

 

First off, thanks for being such a great resource here on G35driver. You have definitely helped a lot of members as well as made things a lot more clearer..

Now moving on to my dilema...

I have a 05 Diamond Graphite coupe which I have clayed several times and I use Zaino products. Overall the condition of my paint has been in good condition in regards to any fine scratches or swirls.

Recently, I sent my car to the bodyshop to have some paint work done. I always ask that they do not detail my car and usually they listen. Well this time they didn't and I received my car with a ton of swirls, holograms and fine scratches that could eventually evolve into spiderwebbing. After this I do not want to bring it back to the bodyshop to have it corrected because they may only make it worse. Although they are good with the paint/body portion, they are not the greatest when it comes to detailing.

My question is:

1. What products can I use to get rid of the swirls, holograms, light scratches as well as get a great slick shine and protection?
2. What is process considering I purchase a Porter Cable: i.e.

a. Dawn wash the car
b. Claybar w/ lube
c.???
What pads to use with what products?

3. Lastly, if you do have a package for sale that meets my needs above, could you pm me a price for everything?


I know this is a lot...hopefully not too much.


Thanks in advance.

Vin

 

Hi George, just recieved my order, thank you very much. Forgot to ask you about the Poorboys EXP sealant. How long after application do I need to wait before applying the P21S wax? I thought I read somewhere 24hrs.

 

Yeah, it's usually best to let your sealant cure for 24 hours before applying your wax.

 

Vin, that stinks about the bodyshop washing your vehicle. Basically you'll need a light abrasive finishing polish (or possibly a medium cut followed by the finishing polish).

It would be best applied with the PC as you mentioned. I'll PM you some products I'd recommend to use to remove them.

Keep us posted on how you make out.

h2mann - As Garnet Canuck stated (thanks Shane!), ideally it is best to wait 24 hours to let the sealant fully cure. This will ensure you get the most durability and shine out of your sealant before applying the wax.

George

 

got it, thanks guys. if I dont have a chance to wax after applying the sealant, is it ok to drive and wax some other day?

 

Any tips on caring for and protecting my new motorcycle?
First of all, it's a glossy black, so the world is against me.
Second, a friend warned me that due to the high heat resistant paint needed for motorcycles, that I should be careful not to use just any old car wax on it.
Third, I already have a "smoked" area in the paint near the gas fill (gotta assume from some splashed gas) that is only visible under bright florescent lights - ideas?
Fourth, How do I care for all that chrome!?! Again, Chrome on an exhaust pipe undergoes different conditions from the chrome on someone's trim pieces.

 

i got a detail from one of our local detailers..and there are now permanate buffs in the paint

what is the next step in getting this fixed, someone told me wet sanding would be the only way?

 

Depending on how deep they are, you need to find someone who knows how to use a rotary properly, a PC possibly remove them though with an aggressive compound

 

Yep, you'd want to give it a quick detail or a wash but yes this is perfectly fine.

Let us know how you make out.

G35 Owner - I'd recommend a sealant instead of a wax which will hold up to higher temperatures and give you longer durability. Here's a link to our sealants that would fit your needs. For your smoked areas of the vehicle, you could try a clay bar to remove the contamination that is giving you the smoked look. That area may require polishing to bring back the depth and gloss. Be sure to seal that area up with a coat or more to make the removal of contamination easier in the future.

As far as the chrome is concerned, for bikes, I love using the P21s Metal Polishing Soap. It cleans large areas of chrome in a quick and effective manner. Be sure to keep the applicator pad as clean as possible or I've heard some detailers use a microfiber applicator instead with a better nap. It also leaves behind a small layer of protection to help aid in future cleanings.

dyenboy - It's tough to diagnose without seeing the damage in person but wet sanding would be the last option I'd resort to (it's the last step before a repaint). redlude97's suggestions were good, however if it is just light hologramming you are referring to, it typically just needs to be finished again with a finishing polish and pad. However if it truly buffer damage, it will require a lot more than that. I'd suggest getting multiple opinions from other professionals and possibly even seeing if they would test a panel for you prior to giving them the entire job to prove they can remove the marks you are talking about. Good luck and keep us posted on how you make out.

George

 

George, Thanks for providing so much help for us noobs. Already ordered some 303 and Leatherique for the interior and a Glass Science kit. About to order some wheel cleaner & sealant, and tire dressing but I'd like to add a few things to help keep the windshield in top condition, I just don't know exactly what those items might be.

Clay barring seems to be a good thing, maybe. Some have mentioned it but I'm not seeing any definitive reference to what to use as a lubricant.

Your site has some spray clay under glass cleaning but it says it's for the Diamondite system. Seem overboard as all I want to do is get the windshield as clean as possible before using the Glass Science stuff. maybe that's overboard too. Help?

The car's new (<5K mi) but when cleaning the windshield with Gunk ammonia-free aerosol cleaner the sweep of the wipers is visible and they don't go away with repeated cleaning. I've used Rain-X once and keep the wiper blades clean.

I'm looking for whatever I can do to keep the windshield like-new and clear when raining without wiper streaking, etc.

Thanks very much, Pete

 

Pete,

First off, we greatly appreciate your support, I'm sure you'll love the 303 and Leatherique. As for the Glass Science Kit, I think that is all you'll need to keep your windshield in top condition. I personally do not like the Diamondite products, we've discontinued it from our stock and only have a few remaining bottles left, I'd steer you away from their products as they are over priced and under performing. The Glass Scrub is an excellent product to keep your windshield properly prepped and streak free. Top things off with the Rain Clear and you'll watch rain sheet right off your windshield. Make sure you completely remove the Rain Clear Gel though, I think you'll find it nicer to work with than the Rain-X. I give my wipers a quick wipe down with isopropyl alcohol and water to make sure they stay fresh or grab a 303 Wiper Treatment packet when I'm lazy.

For regular maintenance, I use Stoner's Invisible Glass with a combination of 3 MF towels... 2 general purpose ones and 1 glass specific one. The first general purpose one I use to apply the product and work it into the glass. The second one I follow up with and remove almost all of the product and get it nearly streak free, then I follow up with the low nap glass microfiber towel to ensure there is no streaking left behind. The nice thing about the Stoner's is you can use it both on your interior and exterior and it is safe to use on tinted windows as well.

Keep us posted on how you make out, but I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with how well the Glass Scrub and Rain Clear Gel work. I don't do any detail now without using the Glass Scrub, it's addicting!

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks again!

George

 

Thanks for the quick reply George.

I've added the 10oz Glass Scrub and a ten pack of the 303 wiper treatments - hadn't noticed them before. For rinsing off the Glass Scrub I'll use some distilled water as it won't leave water spots. One less thing to deal with maybe.

I didn't follow the description of using isopropyl and rubber -something- in that sentence. Do you mean one of the rubber treatments on the Vinyl and Rubber Care page?

BTW, is the Poorboy's Spray & Rinse Wheel Cleaner safe to use on the painted 18" OEM wheels on the '07 G35? The Wheel & Tire Bundle #18 is in the cart at the moment. I'm thinking it's gotta be easier than cleaning the wheels with a damp MF towel. I'm assuming the sealant's a better choice than a regular car wax of some kind due to the high temps.

Thanks again, Pete