Yep, or if it just sat in a garage w/ a light dusting, you can use a plush microfiber towel and some quick detailer solution.

Let us know how you make out.

 

Thanks G. I will email you some pics to host if I get the job done right the first time.

Regards,
Orvin

 

Here is h2mann's work that he emailed me...













Looking sharp!

 

George,

Got my first order in yesterday and I gotta tell ya' the Leatherique Prestine cleaner rocks. Better than I expected. I'd used some Maguiar's Gold Class wipes on the driver's seat and while it wasn't bad it left the leather 'sticky' enough to make creaking/squeeking sounds as the right bolster rolled into the console during hard left turns.

Nothing would get rid of it, no amount of damp MF and dry MF buffing made a dent in the mess on the leather surface. The Leatherique OTOH removed this effect everywhere but the worst spots on the first pass. After another application and three passes with damp and dry MF the leather's returned to normal and no longer makes any noise.

Feels like new with no discoloration or change to the surface texture. Also leaves the leather with a nice matte finish indistinguishable from the untreated passenger seat. Very nice.

And the 303 diluted cleaner took care of a coffee stain and some scuffing pretty much on contact leaving both the carpet and the threshold looking perfectly clean. Not bad, not bad at all.

FYI and thanks, Pete

 

Maybe I just missed it if it was discussed earlier in this thread.

I've used a claybar for detailing for many years. I recently got a Porter Cable, so I was wondering, is it better to still use the claybar to remove surface contaminants, or just go straight to the PC and use a fine cut compound to polish it out? Wouldn't the PC and compound do a better job?

That way, I can save a trip to the store for a new claybar.

TIA

 

do both, claybars will remove surface contaminants way faster than any polish can, and will allow for a clean even surface to polish on

 

George,

I want to echo what has already been said on this board, and thank you for taking the time to individually answer all of our questions.

Now time for mine. :-p

I will have a detailer detail my car within the next month. I've seen his work and I'm excited to have a pro get my car back to where it belongs, e.g. swirl free.

I plan on having my detailer do a full service job every 6 months. Now my question is, how can I best maintain that shine and swirl-free look in between those jobs?

Is what you mention in your above quote the way to go? How would I know when to use the sealant?? I guess I'm a little confused by that still. If the car has been washed, clay bar'd, polished, sealed, and waxed, how do I know when to use the sealant? I wouldn't want to use the sealant on top of the wax, right??

Which part of your product bundles do you recommend for wheel/tire care and glass care?

I have a 2004 Twilight Blue G35 Coupe, which is my daily driver and is garaged when at home.

Again, thank you for answering all of our questions. I look forward to your response.

js.

 

Pete - Great to hear from you so quickly. I'm glad the products we picked out worked the way as planned. I can tell you did your homework before deciding and it definitely sounds like everything paid off.

Once again, we greatly appreciate your support!

As redlude97 stated (thank you), using a clay bar is a much better product to remove surface contamination than a compound and PC. Not only is it better at removing surface contamination but there are lots of reasons why you shouldn't polish to remove contamination:

1) Polishing over contamination prematurely breaks down the polish prior to reaching your clear coat. In an idealistic situation, you want the polish to ONLY touch your clear coat. That way you get the maximum correction capabilities. For example, say you have a stubborn piece of tar and you polish with a medium cut polish. You're using most of the cut to just remove the tar and by the time it is gone and you are left with clear coat, then your polish is already diminished, you won't effectively remove as many imperfections or finish the paint the way you want it to.

2) Polishing over contamination can embed the contaminates into your pad, which could end up adding imperfections in your paint. If you get a chunk of sap, tar, etc. in your pad and you continue using that pad while asserting pressure, you certainly will scratch the clear coat. This is another reason why it is important to fully remove contamination before a polishing procedure.

I typically recommend a full detail twice a year (Spring and Fall usually), and in doing so I always recommend claying prior to polishing to get the maximum results.

jimmyshaker - Good questions. If you plan on having a detailer maintain your vehicle twice a year, I'd find out what sealant he plans on using and do some research to see how long it is expected to last. If it is designed to last 3 - 4 months, then I'd apply the sealant once during the off season between details. So if he maintains Spring and Fall, apply the sealant Summer and Winter to ensure you have complete coverage year round. The wax will only last 2 - 8 weeks on average so you do not have to worry about that lingering around by the time you are ready to apply your sealant.

The EX-P would still be a great choice especially for a great bang for the buck product, that will give you 3 - 4 months of protection and is easy to work with. You definitely want to invest in that wash kit, or better yet, take advantage of our June special with the 2 sheepskin wash mitts, 2 waffle weave drying towels and a grit guard insert for $59.99. Then just choose a quality shampoo to go along with the kit.

For glass care, my products of choice for streak free glass are Glass Science Glass Scrub (for exterior only) followed by Stoner's Invisible Glass (both interior and exterior maintenance). I use the Stoner's with 3 microfiber towels, 1 to apply, 1 to remove, and 1 low-nap glass microfiber towel to ensure there is no streaking.

For your wheels, what kind of wheels are they? Stock wheels? On a brand new set of wheels, I typically just recommend Poorboy's Wheel Sealant, shampoo, water and a dedicated wash mitt to maintain. The Wheel Sealant will make future cleanings a breeze by adding a layer of protection to help prevent contamination, such as brake dust, from becoming embedded to your wheel. If you need a cleaner from stubborn brake dust, it is going to depend on what type of wheel you have for me to make the proper recommendation. For a tire dressing, I prefer Poorboy's Bold 'n Bright, which is a great water based dressing that will not sling, and has a great finish to it.

Tell me a little more about your wheels and I'll see what packages we have for you.

Look forward to hearing back from you.

George

 

Thanks for the discount code. You saved me $22 on my last order!!

 

Glad to hear it, we greatly appreciate the support. Let me know if you have any questions on anything you picked up.

Thanks!

George

 

Hi George,

What's your opinion on Boar's hair car wash brushes? I've seen some porsche owners in my neighborhood using them. Do they work? And how is it on the paint? Thanks again for the info.

(One of these days i'll get to detail my black car when the sun isn't out in full force and doesn't rain for more than two days... )

Infinite1

 

Infinite1, good question. Boar's hair brush is like any other wash tool, when used correctly it can be effective, when used incorrectly it can potentially be damaging to the paint. The idea behind a bhb is that the bristles are safe for the paint. You still want to use a 2 bucket wash system and frequently rinse off the contamination from the bristles. I personally would probably only use it on my lower panels, front and rear bumpers, and use a sheepskin wash mitt for the higher portions of the vehicle. I still think sheepskin is the safest wash tool to use, however they typically do not hold up as well as far as durability is concerned.

I'm excited to test out the new mitt from Lake Country, it looks pretty promising. I will keep you posted with my results with that, I just got in our sample mitt. It could yield paint safe results with great durability if it stands up to its claims.

If you end up using a boar's hair brush, let us know how it compares to other wash tools you've used.

George

 

George,

Worked with the Glass Scrub and Rain Clear today. I used a spray bottle with distilled water in it to spray each section of the windshield before starting, it worked very well.

Rinsed it off with distilled water using the gallon jug to splash it on so that the washing cleared the residue nicely. It took a few passes but the water sheeted off leaving some beads here and there.

All it took was a few easy passes with a soft cloth ("diapers" from WalMart), not a streak or a water stain. It took two gallons, not bad for a perfectly clean windshield.

The Rain Clear went on easily but I used too much - took forever to get to the point where it could be buffed out with another one of those "diaper" cloths. Seems to be pretty good, better than the Rain-X mess at least for now.

Next up is to try distilled water to rinse the car the same way for the same reasons. If the surface is clean enough there should be very little water to wipe up and what's left won't leave spots if enough distilled water is used to rinse out the tap water from the crevices and edges, etc. Probably gonna take more than a couple of gallons though. Oh well, if it makes the job easier it'll be worth the few extra bucks for the water I think.

Thanks again,
Pete

 

hey George i bought a pc,i dont know which product are the best for use to get swirls/heavy swirls out of my paint?wat brand and where to order them?thanks!

 

Thanks George! As usual you are a great wealth of information. I'm still going to look into the bhb but I'll let you know if I do. Thanks again!

Infinite1