^very clean G! now dress those tires! lol

 

Yeah i know, i forgot the tires. will do that today.

 

xbuhhx, to me it sounds like there is still some contamination on the hood and fenders. Sometimes a single pass of clay is not enough for stubborn contamination and you may need to revisit those areas and continue to clay until it feels as smooth as the rest of the vehicle. If you clay those areas again I'd recommend reapplying your wax as well to make sure you are properly protected. If you used a clay bar like Meguiars, Mothers, etc. chances are it was a fine grade bar, you could step it up to a medium grade clay bar for heavier contamination. Medium grade clay bars have more bite to them and are designed to remove heavier contamination or things like paint over spray.

If the clay doesn't do the trick, your next options are to use an abrasive polish to try to even out the area or worse case wet sand. Personally, I think re-claying should do the trick though. Keep us posted on how you make out.

Detailing definitely can take a toll on the body and you often find yourself awkward positions which can make you quite sore the following days. If your arms felt like they were going to fall off without polishing, your in for a treat when you do. When you polish, you need to exert pressure to properly break down the abrasives and is the most tiring step of the detailing process. This is why many detailers turn to the Porter Cable 7424 buffer when performing paint correction.

Two things to keep in mind about your question, when you polish, you will remove any layers of protection you applied on your paint, so you'll have to reapply your sealant and / or wax. As far as claying your vehicle, you should be fine with a simple wash before polishing. It would be difficult to have stubborn contamination accumulate that quickly. I would say you'd have a time frame of 2 - 3 months before seriously considering claying again.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

Many detailers turn to the Lake Country pads (regular or CCS) or the curved edge CCS pads when using rotary buffers. Another option is to go the Edge system of pads. Make sure you get the pad that matches you backing plate. Most standard rotary backing plates are hook and loop compared to a velcro backing. I wouldn't suggest going larger than 6.5" pads as the larger you go the more heat that is generated along the edges. This increases the risk of adding holograms or potentially burning the paint. Hope this helps.

Claying should take care of paint over spray. Consider investing in a medium grade clay bar instead of a fine grade for over spray. A fine grade can get the job done but you may have to spend a decent amount of time making multiple passes where medium grade has more tackiness to it and can pick up embedded contamination easier than a fine grade bar will. I'd encourage you to follow up a medium grade clay bar with a finishing polish to remove any micro-marring that may have occurred when removing the over spray. Also, be sure to protect your surface with a sealant and / or wax.

Osiris - it looks like photobucket is down, I'll continue to check to see the pictures of your hard work. Looking forward to it.

George

 

yeah....ill try to clay it again and see what happens. gonna order that medium grade clay and hopefully it will work. I can use meguirs speed detailer as a lubricant right?

 

Yep, that should do the trick. You can also use a combination of automotive shampoo and water mixed in a spray bottle as well if you run out.

Thanks for the prompt reply.

George

 

So then would the pads you sell would be good ???

 

You'd need a velcro backing plate for your rotary, which you probably would have purchased separately. If you have one of those then yes our pads would work great with the rotary. Picus from GTA in Detail uses our Lake Country Pads for his rotary correction with great success. If you have any other questions let me know.

George

 

George,

I think I read somewhere in this thread that you recommend waiting at least 48 hours after applying a sealant before waxing. What about after the polishing step - can the sealant be applied immediately?
And if I apply mutilple coats of sealant can they be applied one right after the other? Same for wax?
I'm using P21S Paintwork Cleanser, Poorboy's EX-P, and P21 Concours.

 

You can apply a sealant right after polishing, layering sealant should be done after a curing period, or else you are just removing the previous layer with the solvents in the wet sealant.

 

Thanks for the reply redlude, I'll follow your advice.

 

redlude97 offered some good advice. You can apply your sealant as soon as you wipe off your polish, nothing should be left behind on the paint after polishing. Usually sealants finish curing and cross-linking within 24 hour time period. You certainly could wait 48 hours to be sure but most products are done in 24 hours. Waxes typically cure within 12 hours, so if you applied a coat of wax at 7am, you could apply your second coat around 7pm.

If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to ask.

George

 

I tested out my buffer by doing a polish on the trunk lid. Used IP and PO106FF, after claying of course The shine is noticeably deeper and more reflective. However i still see "waves", which i think is what is referred to as orange peel?

Is this in the clear? Is it possible to get that flat mirror look? Maybe one or two more passes with the PO106FF?

 

Orange peel is usually corrected by color sanding (wet sanding) the paint. Most vehicles have some degree of orange peel from the factory. Unfortunately, polishing it more with PO106FF will not remove orange peel.

I do not recommend trying to remove orange peel as you often remove a decent amount of paint doing so.

George

 

just ordered the medium clay bar! thanks for discount and imma try to do it this weekend coming up if it gets here by friday

 

need some advice here ... i think my car was egged; not sure what the hell happened, but i came back from the store and there was some yellow crusty gunk on the door. i've washed it twice since then, and there is still a faint yellow stain. what should i do to get this off? it's really starting to irk me ....