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  #406  
Old 10-25-2007, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DRG35R
My questions:

Should I be using cleaner on leather even though there has never been any kind of mess? No one has ever sat in the rear seats. Can I just continue to use conditioner only since the leather is not actually "dirty"? The only "dirt" would be dust. I was thinking about continuing the process of conditioner only on all leather except drivers seat, but even that is not "dirty".
Daily roundtrip is only 7 miles.

My concern is the cleaner. Even though PH balanced and "safe" can it, over time, "harm" the leather? Is it really necessary if leather is clean? Do you think just applying conditioner every 3 months is enough care?

Thanks for your advice.

P.S. I checked out your website, very nice, and would have purchased the Lexol products, but local auto parts store was having a sale.
There's a lot of debate on how ofter you should clean and condition your leather. Most leather in todays vehicles are coated leather, not raw leather. Coated leather does not need a deep cleaning and conditioning as much as raw leather. In fact, until the coating begins to fail, fade or crack, very little product actually gets down into the true leather. As you use your vehicle more and more the pores and cracks in the leather open up and you can benefit more from leather cleaner and conditioner. Many enthusiasts use an all purpose cleaner that is safe on vinyl and leather for quick cleanings.

What I recommend to our customers is to give it a thorough cleaning and conditioning about twice a year, I do mine during my larger details in Spring & Fall. For regular maintenance, I've been using an all in one leather product, like Poorboy's Leather Stuff, which offers some mild cleaning and conditioning, but also offers UV protection. Another alternative is to use 303 Aerospace Protectant, to not clean or condition, but to protect your coated leather from UV fading.

I would still suggest using the cleaner prior to conditioning with the Lexol as you want to remove any contamination from normal use, which can be as simple as just oils from your skin. You want to unclog the pores of the leather so that the conditioner can penetrate and effectively do it's job. For heavier contaminated leather, I'd suggest using a medium bristled vinyl or leather brush.

Hope this helps answer your questions.

George
 
  #407  
Old 10-25-2007, 05:01 PM
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Ok I have another question. How do you clean the little hole's that are in the leather seats ing the G35 ???
 
  #408  
Old 10-25-2007, 05:01 PM
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Ok I have another question. How do you clean the little hole's that are in the leather seats ing the G35 ???
 
  #409  
Old 10-25-2007, 06:58 PM
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Where can I purchase Swissvax BoS?
 
  #410  
Old 10-27-2007, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrooge
Ok I have another question. How do you clean the little hole's that are in the leather seats ing the G35 ???
Consider using a soft or medium bristled brush to help loosen debris in the little holes, then I would follow up with a vacuum. The Metro Vac 'n Blo has many tiny attachments to maximize your efficiency in tiny areas, like the attachment about the size of a pencil eraser with bristles on it.

The other alternative is to take a toothpick, thumb tack, etc. and literally clean out each and every hole, but I don't think that is most effective use of your time.

Originally Posted by Renegade
Where can I purchase Swissvax BoS?
BoS = Best of Show? I checked with the only distributor of Swissvax that I know and they do not stock Best of Show (or any other wax that has the initials BoS). As far as I know it is not offered in the US, I just checked the US version of their website.

Try Swissvax direct.

George
 
  #411  
Old 10-27-2007, 11:36 PM
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I had bugs hit the front of the car and I am on the highway alot. I have cleaned them but some of them have left permanent marks that I can't remove and the front end looks horrific. Is there anything you might recommend?
 
  #412  
Old 10-28-2007, 12:22 AM
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Have you tried claying and polishing it?
 
  #413  
Old 10-28-2007, 05:56 PM
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Detailed: The person you know of, what Products from Swissvax do they stock? I may be interested!

If you want to PM me your answer, that's fine too!

Thx!
 
  #414  
Old 10-28-2007, 07:58 PM
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I just ordred from you and got the products real quick. Thanks
After doing the whole process of wash, clay, polish, glaze, sealant, and wax, when should you reapply the sealant and wax combination. So waxes last longer than sealants, does that mean when you apply the wax over the sealant, the sealant will last just as long as the wax? Also, for regular washes, do we just wash the car with soap product and water?
 
  #415  
Old 10-28-2007, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by kernel843
Have you tried claying and polishing it?
yeah but I think the lovebugs have eaten through the paint. I might have to eaither have the bumper resprayed or just get a new one sometime in the future
 
  #416  
Old 10-28-2007, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
PG35 - You could try out an abrasive polish as bigbadbooda mentioned in your thread on how it happened. Other than that, there's not much you can do, either live with it and be happy it was there to protect your paint or get that clear bra replaced.

Let us know how things turn out.

trueskillz12 - You could try a couple of things. 1 would just be a water : isopropyl alcohol mix (50/50) with a little elbow grease. A trim restorer product would be the next option.

I haven't tried this but I heard it has worked, you could try rubbing some smooth peanut butter on the trim, let it sit a few seconds and remove.

extreme4377 - First thing I'd try is a mixture of water and white vinegar just to make sure they aren't calcium deposits. If that doesn't do the trick, it sounds like you need to go to the next aggressive abrasive polish. I've seen some water spots that need as heavy as a wet sanding to completely remove, hopefully that is not the case. Were you applying the polish by hand or with a buffer?

George
George,
I just picked up my new '07 Sedan Sport this past week, and it has some residual water spots, ghosts I call them, we have extremely hard water here, and any time you buy a car that's has been on the lot, at some point it's been washed in the sun, and the water dried to fast, and left the "ghosts" Well, anyway, I had good luck today on the hood using 3M Medium Cleaner wax, it's hard to use, but it did the trick,, the spots are gone. Oh, and I also used the same product on the 3M clear on my '05 to remove a scratch, this was recommended by 3M. Anyway, the wax did the trick.
 
  #417  
Old 10-28-2007, 11:57 PM
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Hello geogre again. I was wondering if you know where to get touch paint for the Diamond graphite color infiniti ???
 
  #418  
Old 10-29-2007, 01:51 AM
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hey george,

so after claying the car with the medium grade clay i got from you, the hood still didnt feel smooth and soft as the rest of the car, any other suggestions!?
 
  #419  
Old 10-29-2007, 10:12 AM
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G35 Coupe "Sport Package"
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
There's a lot of debate on how ofter you should clean and condition your leather. Most leather in todays vehicles are coated leather, not raw leather. Coated leather does not need a deep cleaning and conditioning as much as raw leather. In fact, until the coating begins to fail, fade or crack, very little product actually gets down into the true leather. As you use your vehicle more and more the pores and cracks in the leather open up and you can benefit more from leather cleaner and conditioner. Many enthusiasts use an all purpose cleaner that is safe on vinyl and leather for quick cleanings.

What I recommend to our customers is to give it a thorough cleaning and conditioning about twice a year, I do mine during my larger details in Spring & Fall. For regular maintenance, I've been using an all in one leather product, like Poorboy's Leather Stuff, which offers some mild cleaning and conditioning, but also offers UV protection. Another alternative is to use 303 Aerospace Protectant, to not clean or condition, but to protect your coated leather from UV fading.

I would still suggest using the cleaner prior to conditioning with the Lexol as you want to remove any contamination from normal use, which can be as simple as just oils from your skin. You want to unclog the pores of the leather so that the conditioner can penetrate and effectively do it's job. For heavier contaminated leather, I'd suggest using a medium bristled vinyl or leather brush.

Hope this helps answer your questions.

George
George,

Used Lexol products as suggested:

Cleaner:

- dusted leather
- applied with damp terry cloth covered foam applicator
- dried excess with soft terry towels
- no real dirt appeared on either applicator or towels

Conditioner:

- applied sparingly with terry cloth covered foam applicator
- worked into the surfaces, does not smell the best
- left a slight shine after application
- let surfaces dry for about an hour, but still tacky
- surfaces were fully dry about a day later
- left nice sheen, but still smells a bit

Since car is kept very clean inside, I will only use the Lexol routine once a year. Will continue to use the Meguiars Rich Leather Wipes for quick cleaning/conditioning. They seem to work very well based upon condition of leather after two years of only using these to keep leather cleaned and conditioned.

Next question. I am running out of ScratchX polish which I use in conjunction with Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax. I am preparing car for winter and will be using NXT synthetic wax. Can you recommend a hand polish to use with this, or is the ScratchX the polish to continue with?

Thanks for the advice.
 
  #420  
Old 10-29-2007, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by DRG35R
Next question. I am running out of ScratchX polish which I use in conjunction with Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax. I am preparing car for winter and will be using NXT synthetic wax. Can you recommend a hand polish to use with this, or is the ScratchX the polish to continue with?

Thanks for the advice.
If you plan on continuing with hand application, ScratchX is one of your best options. When you venture into other polishes with larger abrasives, you require more heat and pressure to properly break down the polish, which usually entails using a quality buffer. I'd say stick with the ScratchX for the time being.

I think you're leather approach is good. It is good practice to use a dedicated cleaner and conditioner at least once a year, even if you use the wipes on a regular basis.

Thanks for the detailed feedback.

George
 


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