I'd just go with the glaze instead of worrying about removing imperfections with abrasive polishes and a machine. Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze is a great option and will work well with the EX-P you already have.

You can try to polish by hand, but IMO it's not even worth it until you invest in a buffer.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

George

 

George,

Thank again. This is what I will be ordering from you.

Chemical Guys Fine Grade Clay Bar - 180 g $17.59 $17.59
Chemical Guys Extreme EZ-Creme Glaze with Acrylic Shine II - 16 oz $13.59 $27.18
Poorboy's World Natty's Red Paste Wax - 8 oz $21.99 $21.99
Dodo Juice Born Slippy Clay Lube Concentrate - 250 ml $12.99 $12.99
DI Accessories Trigger Spray Bottle - 22 oz $4.99 $4.99

Will let you know how it turn out.

-Ronnie

 

Ronnie,

Thanks for the support. I'm looking forward to hearing about your results, should be a nice improvement for you. Enjoy!

George

 

George,

I am looking for a very specific product. A polish for my wheels that allows me to polish the entire wheel and then remove with a MF with no issues. It also needs to provide some scratch removal ability and leave the surface very smooth and shiny. Am I asking for too much?

I use to use Meg's original ScratchX and got really good results. Here is my process for prepping wheels for summer use or winter storage:

- spray P21S Gel, let soak for a few minutes
- lightly scrub with soft wheel brush, mostly inner barrel
- wash with P21S Total Auto Wash and dry with MF
- polish entire wheel with ScratchX using Mother's Powerball Mini
- seal w/2 coats of PB's Wheel Sealant applied by hand with foam pad
- all product removal with MF's

Since the original ScratchX is no longer, I have tried the following products:

- ScratchX 2.0 - for spot use only, dries too fast for easy removal by hand after polishing entire wheel.

- Menzerna Final Polish II - same issue, dries too fast and makes removal difficult by hand. results no better versus original ScratchX which is a lot less expensive.

- PB's Polish w/Sealant - very easy to work with. can polish entire wheel, let sit, and removal by hand is still very easy. did not give the results I was expecting in terms of smoothness and shine...surprised since most PB's products I have used are excellent. not bad, but think I can do better.

by the way, the wheels are painted with clearcoat.

any recommendations? thanks.

 

DRG35R,

Nice to hear from you a good question. To me, what it seems like you're after is a nice polish to remove some minor imperfections but is easy to remove, something to replace the original ScratchX that was working for you.

The rest of your process is spot on. The downside of the PBW Polish with Sealant is it's only a chemical cleaner and non-abrasive, which won't remove some minor imperfections you may have on your wheels.

The first product that comes to mind is something like Optimum Poli-Seal. This is a similar product to the PBW Polish with Sealant, except it utilizes micro abrasive particles to help remove some imperfections in the paint. It's pretty easy to work with in both the application and removal. The only thing I can see where it may not fit the bill is it's not very aggressive, so deeper imperfections will remain.

For ease of application and removal on painted surfaces that won't dry up on you quickly, the newer formulated OPT polishes fit the bill. They also work great on paint and bang for the buck are probably one of the best options out there. If you wanted to step up from the Opti-Seal, I'd look into their Polish II.

I wouldn't recommend going too much more aggressive than the Polish II as painted wheels with clear coats usually aren't as thick or tough as clear coat on the paint. Also you're usually dealing with curved surfaces, which is where clear coat is the thinnest.

Hope this helps, let me know what you end up going with and how things turn out for you.

Enjoy the rest of your weekend,

George

 

One quick question, when I use clay bar, do I use with pad or FB tower is fine? Thanks

 

When you clay, you rip off a piece of clay, mold it into a pancake, mist the Born Slippy clay lube onto your paint, and gently glide the clay over the small section.

Here are two clay bar articles that should give you everything you need to know about using a clay bar properly:

http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-De...uide/Clay-Bar/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Pro-Det...ar-Proper-Use/

Let me know if that answers your questions.

Cheers,

George

 

Hey George

I had a couple of questions. I just had a body kit installed on my car and I wanted to do a full detail on it. Is it safe to detail on the body kit since it was just recently painted? I had it done around June 1st and was looking to do it sometime this week. All my products I have bought from you so I was wondering if they are safe to use on the kit or should I avoid all the freshly painted parts and detail the rest of the car?

My process was going to be

wash
clay - (i just bought the clay bar from you, cant remember the name)
polish - meneroza super polish
wash again (just water, is that ok to get of extra residue off?)
Speed glaze - Meguires #7
Sealant - Poorbox EX-P
Wax - Poorboy Natty paste

Thanks

 

hey george,

im going camping july 10th with my wife with and im taking my g35, i have a quick question i dont want my front bumper to chip up or anything, its a 2hour 16 min drive from me, should i just use blue painters tape or could i use 303 protectant on the front bumper to protect it from chip plz help

 

You want to double check with the shop that did your body work, but typically speaking you need to let the paint cure for 90 - 120 days before you apply a sealant or wax to it. You can perform the rest of the steps you have listed, just end with the glaze and use a quick detailer after maintenance washes until the paint has fully cured. Keep us posted on how things turn out for you.

303 Aerospace Protectant won't do anything for rock chips. Between the two, blue painters tape would be the better option. Make sure you do the side mirrors and fenders if they stick out.

A lot of people go the blue tape route for their track days and long trips.

Cheers,

George

 

George,

Will FMJ/JetSeal bond to Chemical Guys Extreme EZ-Creme Glaze with Acrylic Shine II?

Have you had any experience using either of those sealants with the CG's glaze?

Is there a cure time for the glaze and should I wait before applying the sealant on top of it?

 

Good question. CG EZ Creme Glaze is one of my favorite glazes because it's acrylic based and works great with both sealants and waxes. There won't be any of the issues with the 2 products you mentioned.

You can apply your first coat of sealant right over the the EZ Creme Glaze without any cure time. Just be sure if you apply a second layer or top it with a wax then you give the sealant 24 hours to cure.

You'll have great luck with either of those combos. Be sure to keep us posted what you think once you get a chance to use them.

Enjoy your weekend,

George

 

Ya i just finished using these products holy frigging crap my car looks awesome, then i finished it off with Dodo Juice for my black G holy smokes does the water bead and the shine...awesome totally awesome i'm sold on the stuff that i received from George...thanks

 

Glad to hear you enjoyed the products. Let me know if there's anything else I can do to help.

Enjoy!

George

 

No camera...