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  #1906  
Old 12-15-2011, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Eye Eat Ketchup
Also, how do you tape the rubbe mouldings on the roof? Do you cut the tape or buy really thin tape?
you can buy thin tape, but i just tape along the trim with wide tape and let the tape cover top edge on the other side of the molding. The way i polish the roof if to only focus on the roof and if you dont tape off the molding plus the top side you can burn through that edge.
 
  #1907  
Old 12-15-2011, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ManE-G35
What is your opinion on the turtle wax polish and wax? I bought this brand b/c it was less expensive. I used it but didn't seem to get the right finish. The paint blemishes also stood out more. I guess some of the wax got caught in the chipping of the paint and now it seems it is more apparent.
I haven't used it lately but I did a few years ago and the performance was pretty poor even compared to many other locally available options in my opinion. Sometimes a cleaned and polished vehicle will reveal more imperfections and you tend to stare at the paint more during this time. As for why it was stuck in the chips no product should really do that so I'm not sure what the cause was. It may have been applied to thick to those areas and the chips collected some excess product. You can remove it with a little quick detailer and a microfiber towel or possibly a little degreaser if needed, just be very careful you don't make the chips any worse.

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  #1908  
Old 12-15-2011, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by hahnx
So I know nothing about paint on cars. The paint on the rear bumper of my G35 is what I assume to be cracked, but I am not sure. The damage was done due to people who can't drive and parallel park here in NYC. So my question is can this be fixed and if so, how would I go about fixing it? Thanks!
Unfortunately that is definitely going to need to be fixed at a body shop as it's through the paint and primer. No polish or touch up kit can fix this it will need a full re-paint. Sorry to see it but I hope the new one looks top notch for you. Take care!

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  #1909  
Old 12-15-2011, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 06g35meister
I have the buffer already, is there a package for everything without the buffer? Package deal, etc.? Also I was looking at the headlight restoration kit which includes the stuff i need, but is 8oz enough to do the car and the headlights?
For the entire car you typically only need about 2 - 3 ounces of polish so the 8oz bottle is more than enough for the headlights. You can also use just about any polishing combination on headlights, instead of ones just marketed towards headlights so the polishes in the kits below will all work.

Below are some kits for the products you would want but you'll have to pick up the pads separately:
Poorboy's World Polish and Protection Kit
Optimum Polish and Protection Kit
Menzerna Polish and Protection Advanced Kit
Menzerna Polish and Protection Starter Kit
DI Packages Polish and Protection Advanced Kit
DI Packages Polish and Protection Kit
DI Packages Polish and Protection Perfection
DI Packages Polish and Protection Starter Kit
DI Packages Polish and Protection Starter Kit

In general I would pick up 2x orange (medium polish), 2x white (light polish) and at least one blue pad (sealant) and the black pad if you have a glaze.

Let me know if you'd like help picking one of these kits or I can piece together several items for a custom recommendation. Take care!

Greg @ DI
 
  #1910  
Old 12-15-2011, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Eye Eat Ketchup
how do you guys usually clean you LC pads? I just used a blue pad for the headlights (plastix).

I bought the snappy cleaner, but think that it's a waste just for a little plastix.

also, do you guys usually just polish (i have jetseal 109) your headlights when polishing the car?

thanks!!
Just use a small amount of water in a bucket and a little bit of the Snappy Clean and save the rest for another detail. Another option is using a citrus based degreaser like the P21S Total Auto Wash on the pad.

If I polish the car I sometimes will also polish the headlights but not as frequently. If I'm going to protect my car with a sealant like the Jetseal 109 I will pretty much always apply that to the headlights. It can also be applied to the wheels and glass for protection. If you have any other questions please let me know!

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  #1911  
Old 12-15-2011, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Eye Eat Ketchup
Also, how do you tape the rubbe mouldings on the roof? Do you cut the tape or buy really thin tape?
I just use the skinny tape it's well worth having on hand. Below are the links to all three size tapes we carry:

Meguiar's Professional Masking Tape .75
Meguiar's Professional Masking Tape 1.5
Meguiar's Professional Masking Tape 2

Hope this helps!

Greg @ DI
 
  #1912  
Old 12-19-2011, 03:42 AM
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Hello , I have 2 questions and if you could help me here i would love it

I had my car detailed and whatever cloth or buffing method they used left swirls in the paint that show at night very badly , How can i fix this ?

Also i would like to fix random " Not to deep " Scratches around my car i have a black G35 Coupe by the way.

Not up for using a touch up pen because i know they make it look like crap!

If you could point me to a decent price kit to fix my scratches that would be great.

Thanks so much
 
  #1913  
Old 12-22-2011, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Decode
Hello , I have 2 questions and if you could help me here i would love it

I had my car detailed and whatever cloth or buffing method they used left swirls in the paint that show at night very badly , How can i fix this ?

Also i would like to fix random " Not to deep " Scratches around my car i have a black G35 Coupe by the way.

Not up for using a touch up pen because i know they make it look like crap!

If you could point me to a decent price kit to fix my scratches that would be great.

Thanks so much
I agree touch up work can often make small scratches look far worse. There is no easy way to do really high quality touch up work though. You'll have to get the matching paint apply it really thin, provide a light wet sanding, polish and repeat generally two or more times. In short unless you have experience or really high confidence I would leave it to a pro or just let it go and polish them to reduce the visibility slightly. Polishing is the step where you really restore the paint to like new again. You can permanently remove swirls, oxidation, etc. not just temporarily hide them. I highly recommend you consider getting a Porter Cable (PC) as they are so easy to use, vastly improve your results while saving you time and energy. We have some affordable kits that give you the PC, backing plate, pads and polishes you would need here DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Starter Kit or DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. Both kits give you the M105 and M205 polishes with the PC that are going to help you really restore the paint to like new. Best of all the PC is easy to use and completely safe even for a first time user. Check out our detailing guide for step by step instructions and other helpful hints. If you prefer to do a hand application I generally just recommend a one step process with a foam applicator and Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205, but you may have to use the M105 as well to spot treat the scratches.

When you are all done you should have removed the majority of the swirls and possible some of those scratches or atleast reduced their appearance. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI
 
  #1914  
Old 01-04-2012, 07:58 PM
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is it okay to clay bar in intervals? I have washed the car and haven't had time to clay bar the car due to a baby.

i travel to work 80miles roundtrip daily. is it okay to just clay bar a little each day and then start my compound/polish process?
 
  #1915  
Old 01-06-2012, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Eye Eat Ketchup
is it okay to clay bar in intervals? I have washed the car and haven't had time to clay bar the car due to a baby.

i travel to work 80miles roundtrip daily. is it okay to just clay bar a little each day and then start my compound/polish process?
Ideally I would clay bar the whole car at once right before doing a full detail. However if this is not possible using a clay bar in sections is certainly better than not using a clay bar at all. Just make sure the car has been freshly washed before you start polishing. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI
 
  #1916  
Old 01-09-2012, 12:56 PM
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rust specks

Hey I have a question that I dont know if you guys will be able to help me out. Our 2007 G35x recently started showing some tiny spots of rust around the trunk, door and fender areas. maybe the clear coat is worn down, im not sure. I find it odd that such a new car would do this. If anyone could help by telling me possibly why this is happening and how to correctly treat this , it would be awesome. Thanks
 
  #1917  
Old 01-10-2012, 03:51 PM
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Hi Greg

My EZ Detail Brush broke! The part connected to the handle came out of the handle. Do you know any good way I could fix this or do I need a new one? I LOVE this brush - it always does it's job (I just have to remember to stay off to the side or I'll get splattered in the face with dirt).

Thanks
 
  #1918  
Old 01-10-2012, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jdmhum
Hey I have a question that I dont know if you guys will be able to help me out. Our 2007 G35x recently started showing some tiny spots of rust around the trunk, door and fender areas. maybe the clear coat is worn down, im not sure. I find it odd that such a new car would do this. If anyone could help by telling me possibly why this is happening and how to correctly treat this , it would be awesome. Thanks
That's definitely surprising on such a new vehicle. Are you sure these are rust marks or is it possible you are seeing something just in the clear coat or on top of it? Any chance you can post up some pictures? Did you buy it new or used? Has it ever been polished with a machine? Sorry for so many questions but the more info I have the better I may be able to help.

Greg @ DI
 
  #1919  
Old 01-10-2012, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by V's G
Hi Greg

My EZ Detail Brush broke! The part connected to the handle came out of the handle. Do you know any good way I could fix this or do I need a new one? I LOVE this brush - it always does it's job (I just have to remember to stay off to the side or I'll get splattered in the face with dirt).

Thanks
Glad to hear the brush has been helpful but I'm sad to hear it's now broken. If the brush was brand new we can get it replaced for you, if this is the case e-mail me the order #. Otherwise I'm not sure if there is a good way to put it back together, haven't had one break yet. I guess some duck tape may work for a bit.....or you may just have to pick up a new one.

Greg @ DI
 
  #1920  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:41 PM
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rust specks

Originally Posted by Detailed Image
That's definitely surprising on such a new vehicle. Are you sure these are rust marks or is it possible you are seeing something just in the clear coat or on top of it? Any chance you can post up some pictures? Did you buy it new or used? Has it ever been polished with a machine? Sorry for so many questions but the more info I have the better I may be able to help.

Greg @ DI

I will take a picture tomorrow morning to show you. It was used when we got it and I do not believe it was ever machine polished. I was thinking of using some Meguiars Ultimate Compound to see if it would help. Maybe its just crap on the clear coat and thatll do the trick?
 


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