Order placed. Wow $600 sure goes fast!

 

Tim,

Thank you for supporting Detailed Image. I can't wait to see what you can do with your black paint! PM sent your way.

George

 

Thanks for the follow up!

George was great and I had a follow up email this morning.

I am going to try and find enough spare time this weekend to do my car and my fiance's car. Wish me luck!

 

Hi George,

I'm fairly new to this detailing thing with machine polishers (been doing everything by hand). I haven't had time to search around the threads but is it best to apply wax and buff using a PC? Or is it always best to apply and buff by hand? I'm just worried that using a PC will leave swirl patterns when buffing versus the side to side motions by hand.

I'm just trying to find ways to save time from all the waxing and buffing, especially buffing, on a black coupe.

Thanks!

 

Knightt, good question. The major benefit of a quality random orbital is applying polishes. The reason is in order to remove imperfections in the paint (swirls, scratches, water spots etc.) you have to break down micro-abrasive particles in the polish which even out the dips and valleys in the clear coat. Doing this by hand would be extremely tedious, results would not be consistent, and it would take a lot longer. Using the buffer allows you to guide the buffer across a structured pattern using light to moderate pressure, with minimal effort on the users end, which allows for uniform and consistent results throughout the coat.

Buffers should only be used to apply products, not remove them. All products are recommended to be removed by hand with a quality microfiber towel.

When it comes to applying waxes, I personally enjoy applying the last step by hand after using a buffer for the prep steps. Using too aggressive of a pad or using a dirty pad on a buffer could potentially leave buffer marks when applying a sealant or wax with a PC, however, if you take the time to learn the proper way to apply a sealant or wax with the buffer and you use the right pad, there is little to worry about.

On a final note, if you are using a paste wax, I personally think it is wasteful to try to apply that with a PC. I highly recommend hand application for paste waxes.

If you have any questions on using the buffer or anything else related to detailing, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

 

Thanks George!

 

I'm sorry if this has been asked, but I see you guys do leather care too. How do you take care of scuffed leather? My black seat is scuffed up a bit and the scuff marks look white. How do I cover them up a bit?

 

dofu - Unfortunately if the leather is scuffed, it usually is beyond repair from a typical leather product. You normally have to resort to a restoration kit or a professional. I know www.Leatherique.com has packages to correct leather, but I haven't tried it myself. Sorry I couldn't give you any more insight on this issue.

George

 

Thanks for the link. Their dyes seem to be a much better alternative to using a Magic Marker...

 

Hi George,

Some questions about your products,

What is the difference between:
Poorboy's Spray & Gloss and Poorboy's Spray & Wipe
303 Fabric & Vinyl Cleaner and 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover

Also, would Poorboy's Wheel Sealant be ok to use on Brake Calipers? How about chrome exhaust tips? And speaking of chrome, what would you recommend for an exterior chrome trim protectant? I've always just used the same wax as I used on my paint.

 

Good questions luv2drv_myG35.

Poorboy's Spray & Wipe is more of a waterless wash, clay lube, light dusting removal product. It will not enhance the depth and gloss of the finish, because it is filled with cleaning characteristics.

Poorboy's Spray & Gloss is more of a gloss enhancer and adding more pop to your paint. It does not have nearly as much cleaning characteristics as Spray & Wipe, but it has enough to remove a light dusting or touch up your car before a show.

Between the 303 Fabric & Vinyl Cleaner and the 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover, it is the same exact formula, but the Cleaner & Spot Remover is pre-diluted to use from the bottle and the Fabric & Vinyl Cleaner is a professional strength concentrate. We recommend diluting the Fabric & Vinyl Cleaner 8:1 with distilled water, so a 32oz bottle yields over 2 gallons of cleaning solution. This also allows you to add more concentrate to the mixture if you need more cleaning power. For interior cleaning I use between 6:1 - 8:1 dilution ratios, for engine bay degreaser, I usually use 3:1 - 5:1 depending on how bad the engine bay is.

Poorboy's Wheel Sealant is ok to use on the brake calipers, however I cannot comment on the durability and how long it will last right there. This product works great on chrome and other metal surfaces.

Let me know if there is anything else I can answer for you.

George

 

very useful thread! wonder why i never looked in here before.

 

Thanks for the positive feedback. If you have any questions with anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

 

Dear George,

Got a quick question regarding Pad cleaners.

Do i need it? i have recently purchased the Pinnacle XMT series polish, glaze and wax. But had neglected to purchase the pad cleaner nor the foam conditioning brush. It is imperative that i get that or is that more of a gimick?

can i do without it? any other ways of cleaning the pads or should i just get the XMT Polishing Pad Cleaner and foam conditioning brush? Or will Snappy Clean Pad Cleaner do the same thing?

Please help.

thank you in advance.

 

osiris32, good question. You certainly can do without the products specifically for cleaning pads. You can substitute the foam conditioning brush with a medium bristle tooth brush and you can soak the pads in any type of degreaser, such as the Snappy Clean you mentioned.

The key to getting the most out of your pads is clean them immediately after using them. The longer you let the pads sit and let the product cake up, the harder it is to clean. Having clean pads is critical to maximizing your results with any detail.

You can spin the pads at a low speed while gently brushing the foam pads with the toothbrush. This will help remove loose product build up from the pad. Afterwards, I usually let them soak in a degreaser for 10 - 15 mins, wring them out, working the product out of the pad with your thumbs and fingers, let them re-soak one more time. When done, give them one more good wring and you want to let them air dry completely before storing them in labeled Ziploc bags so no contamination can get to them.

Hope this helps.

George