George,

Thanks sir for the tip! I've always thought you can just use APC's w/o diluting. I'll have to research those diluting ratios. Thanks again

 

I never thought about it being clear, that could be the case. I had heard about this stuff a little before this but never looked into it because I simply refuse to put anything adhesive on my car at all. So he didnt use anything else to help remove the clear bra from your car? That sounds odd, most people I have talked to say that a little heat helps a ton when removing that kind of stuff.

George, thanks for the input. Im definitely going to try and find a place that deals with those interior kits and get their input as well. Since its just a personal preference thing and not something that looks terrible I will take my time and find the best removal method before I go in there and start tearing pieces of the kit out. Oh and yes most of the trim pieces look like they could be removed with the exception of a few.

As for the outside, if it ends up getting messed up in the removal process its a good excuse to go for a carbon fiber hood and an aftermarket front end. LOL

 

Yes, even the factory ones by your rear wheels are clear.

I'm surprised the people you talked to didn't mention the usual name for the "clear bra" sometimes also called a chipguard. I'm surprised that you would find many people that have removed their own as well.

However, I think you're right that heat would aid the removal of the bra. The chap I saw doing mine only used his bare hands. There was virtually no residue left. Good luck if you end up doing it yourself. Some others on here have tried but spent a long time doing it and some with bad results.

 

Hey George, its me again asking another question, The PC worked wonders btw, This weekend im going to go at it again and finish off now that im comfortable with it on the car. My question this time is, what do you suggest the days after a detail to keep the car looking nice and wet, as if i had just finished detailing it that day? My problem is that the car gets dusty since i park in a garage at home and school and work. I also dont want to add in more swirls by gliding dust along with a MF, so whats a good technique to remove the dust off of the G? thanks again!

 

How would I polish up the canisters of a used Greddy Stainless exhaust? I want to polish some surface scratches out, shine it up and get the piping looking new/good. There is a lot of discoloration on the piping.

 

to the professional detailers on this thread

How do I get rid of this stain on my rims?
Can't tell from far away but once you get close they really look nasty
I tried Dawn and Simple Green without success

 

RBull - I figured it was a clear bra, but you never know, I've seen some odd things on vehicles!

I use Poorboy's Spray & Wipe along with 3 - 5 Ultra Plush Microfiber Towels for light dustings, assuming you did not want to do a full wash. I swap out for a new towel after every 2 - 3 panels or as needed. I'm not a fan of California Car Dusters personally, but that is another option for light dustings. I recently performed a quick detail using the S&W with those Ultra Plush Towels and did not induce any marring on my nearly perfect clear coat. I'll have pics on DU soon.

Have you tried a metal polish, such as Mother's Billet Polish or something like P21s Finish Restorer? Unfortunately, for the scratches you'll have to resort to something more aggressive, like wet sanding or using 0000 steel wool along with following up with some metal polish. Most metal polishes are designed to remove oxidation and to brighten the finish to a mirror look, not remove scratches.

See my above recommendation to oneshot. One of the mentioned metal polishes should remove oxidation and staining like the pictures are showing. Keep in mind, it may take multiple applications of the product and some elbow grease to achieve the results you are looking for.

Hope this helps.

George

 

Thank you george for the reply.
What caused that anyway?

 

Usually it's a reaction from using a chemical on your wheels, such as an acidic wheel cleaner. If you've taken it through a car wash, this is more than likely the cause of it.

After polishing your wheels to your liking, I'd strongly recommend picking up some Poorboy's Wheel Sealant (which is on sale until 08/30/07) to add a layer of protection to your wheels and make future cleanings significantly easier for you.

If you have any other questions, let me know.

George

 

George, I recieved my products awhile back. The poorboy's wheel sealant is awesome. Cleaning my wheels is as easy as spray detailer and a microfiber towel. which reminds me, i'm goin to be ordering more stuff once i move. thanks for the products and resolving our Fedex mix-up! I'm definitely very satisfied with your customer service and products. keep it up.
-Jeff

 

Yeah George, you're right not to assume. Maybe I jumped the gun thinking it's a clear bra. The OP really didn't seem to like any "stickers" so he may as well get it off. Hopefully he doesn't regret it with this soft like baby skin Nissan paint.

 

Hi George im sure that this question has been asked before.....and apoligize for bringing it up again.....I have a black G35 and my largest problem is with water spots and bird ****...... i live in Rainy San Francisco and unfortunatly have to park outside a good amount of the time....what processes and products would best help me remove waterspots and keep me best protected from future waterspoting.....also i happen to live where there is a lot of bird traffic to and am sometimes am not able to remove bird **** quick enough so that when i look at where the **** used to be at an angle i see some hazing in the paint....what product and process would be best to help with this problem?

Thank you for your help and rest assured that Autogeek was erased from my favorites and was replaced with detailedimage.com

 

I am sure George will respond to your question but I thought I would offer my 2 cents as well.

I have been using Poorboys Spray & Wipe for awhile now and it will definitely eliminate any water spots and bird bombs. It's a great QD that is used as a waterless wash and won't harm your paint in the process. As for protecting your paint against bird droppings, I would definitely recommend a good sealant like Zaino Z2 or Z5 or Poorboys EX-P. I haven't personally used it yet, but I've heard a lot of great things about Menzerna's FMJ. Sealants will give you up to 6 months of protection. Good luck.

 

Hey quick question here. Actually its for a friend that doesnt believe me!...well i could be wrong so anyways here goes:
How long does a "common" wax last? Does it last through normal washes? My impression was that a good was job can last atleast a month or so regardless of intermittent washes ( so wax once and wash 4 times afterwards with no wax re applied). Obviously if you use a harsh soap such as the Dawn stuff people mention here i would imagine it would strip the wax in one wash...but if you are using normal car wash liquid it should keep the wax in tact right?

Actually he gets his car washed by someone who comes to our office ( mobil detailer) and gets a wax every time... which brought about this question...
cheers
Prem

 

That's what is on mine and my dad's Frontier. Looks and works great. By far the easiest LSP to work with I have ever even imagined. You can almost remove it by looking at it.

BTW, how did the liquid wax I gave you work?