In my opinion the clay bar is the stronger cleaning step. When used properly it's more likely that you'll remove more contaminants especially the really stubborn ones with a clay bar.

A paint cleanser (aka chemical polish) will also do a good job of cleaning the paint, remove oxidation and remove extremely faint surface imperfections in some cases, so the paint is very shinny before sealing or waxing. However this step commonly does not remove build ups like tar, bug smear, etc. so again the clay bar is the more thorough cleaner, but a clay bar doesn't enhance the shine like a polish will.

You can use a clay bar and this polish together or you can just use either one if desired. Let me know if you'd like help picking out a routine that will work best for you!

Greg @ DI

 

I'm guessing you don't need to wet sand, you probably just need a better buffer, pad and polish combo. Let us know exactly what you used for all three parts and include the speed of the buffer. Once I have that info I should be able to direct you better to any adjustments that could be made.

Greg @ DI

 

DI...thinking about getting the Porter Cable buffer..how hard is it to screw up your paint? I hear even if you try..you can't screw it up..is this the case? Thanks

On your site it says very time consuming to get professional results...i have lots of swirls and scratches in my clear coat..how long would it take to do say a panel?

 

Well it typical takes me 6-12 hours to do my car depending on how bad my paint is (about once, sometimes twice a year). To do one panel with full detailing steps and without actually seeing your paint and how bad the swirls, holograms, industrial fallouts, etc. are i would say 1-2 hours. Wash, Clay, Polish, Wash, Glaze, Seal, Wax. I wait 18-24 hours after the first wax and add another layer. So......I hope this helps.

Oh, BTW, I bought my PC 7427xp new when I first got into detailing and knew nothing. Until I read all the info on detailedImage and never messed my paint up. I too have heard its almost impossible and the PC is one of the best starts for beginning to do paint correction. Good luck.

 

Yeah i was guessing about 4 hours to polish the car..i don't mind spending 6 on it..but an hour a panel..how much of that is polishing..like 20 min?

 

Most of that will be claying, a one step polish will take maybe 7-10min at the most. Greg or George should chime in shortly and you can read it from a true professional as I am defiantly not at there caliber.

 

Anton, I'm thinking about switching over to the PC 7424XP myself. My Makita 9227C cr@pped out on me, after years of use on many cars. Based on my research, the PC's XP model is revised and will get the job done safely. Some scratches may require me to go over twice, but that's not a problem since this is a safer buffer to use. One thing I will do is utilize the 6" counterweight and switch over to Meguiar's or Adam's 6" velcro plate set (much easier to swap pads during a project). I did extensive research before coming to my conclusion. I compared the DeWalt DW849, Makita 9227C, PC 7424XP, and Flex XC 3401 VRG. PC seems to be the safest, lightest, and most user friendly, it also has a good market for aftermarket parts. My Makita was great, but you had to be super careful, or it'd burn right through the clear. That's how I came to my conclusion.

 

Anton,

I've never really heard of any screwing up the paint. We kiddingly tell people you'd have to throw it at the car to harm it. Check out our detailing guide and let me know if you have questions.

Can you link me to where you found this "On your site it says very time consuming to get professional results"? It's probably not as accurate as it could be, so I'll revise it. You can get professional results in a very reasonable amount of time with this buffer.

A full detail certainly can take up a good chunk of your day, however after I tape up an average size car I can generally polish the whole car in about 1.5 hrs, sometimes even less but more is possible as well if I'm having issues. Also the more you read and more importantly the more you practice you'll find ways to work faster and more efficiently. Let me know if I can help you any further.

Greg @ DI

 

I think you have some valid points here but I would argue the DI Packages Flex XC 3401 VRG, Meguiar's Polish and Hydro Pads is a better choice. You get about 40% more OPMs than the PC and more torque so it's smoother and bogs down less with pressure. You can remove more imperfections in less time which is great. You also still get the same safety level where I've never heard of anyone harming their paint with it. The only down side I'm aware of is the cost, otherwise it's an amazing tool. It weighs about the same as a PC, but it's a little larger. Certainly some of this is my opinion but take a second look at this buffer before making your decision. Either way you can't go wrong just wanted to add my .02 cents.

Greg @ DI

 

Greg, the price of the Flex 3401 is a turn off. I plan on buffing my G once or twice (at most) a year. If I were in need of a more heavy duty buffer or I detailed cars for a living, I would certainly consider it. I don't mind spending a few extra minutes per panel using the PC.

 

Porter Cable 7424 XP

The Porter Cable 7424 XP is often referred to as the standard in the auto detailing industry. We've yet to come across a buffer at a lower price point that has enough power to effectively break down polishes like the Porter Cable 7424 XP can. This is on of the main reasons why the PC 7424XP is our best selling buffer.

The PC 7424XP is one of the first buffers detailing enthusiasts gravitate to for two main reasons, the lower price point and minimal risk of damaging your paint. The PC 7424 XP is a random orbital buffer, which means it oscillates rather than spins. This helps reduce the amount of heat generated on the paint and is very safe to use. Even at full speed, the risk of damaging your paint is very minimal.
Pros:

Low cost compared to other quality buffers on the market
Minimal risk for damaging your paint, even at full speed
Easy to control and maneuver
Various backing plates available for different sized pads

Cons:

Can easily bog down when applying pressure due to the small motor
Has it's limitations on deeper imperfections
Very time consuming to achieve professional results

http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-De...ide/Polishing/

 

Thank you both!

 

DI,

I am about to purchase the $194 PC starter kit. It comes with many pads ect. and i have a few Q's:

I am also looking at the M105 and M205 compounds for buffing..is this all i would need along with the pads? or do you recommend another compound. I have some deep scratches but most looks like they are only through the clear coat. Also, what pads should i use? Like i said some panels are worse than others like the trunk and rear panels. So i am thinking using the orange/purple pad with the M105..then finish it up with M205 with the black pad
I am looking at 8 ozs of each..will this be enough?

How long or how many details will those different pads last?

Thanks


Dam..i thought that 10% off would work on that kit!

 

DI,

I picked up a CPO Infiniti G35 the other day, and as part of my purchase package my dealer has offered to either repaint the trunk lid or color sand the entire vehicle. There are some deep, visible scratches on the back of the trunk lid, and various other scratches elsewhere on the car. The main problem is definitely the trunk lid though.

They said with touch up paint and color sand i'll still be able to see the scratches on the trunk a bit... only the full repaint would take them out 100%. I asked a service tech and he said go for the color sanding. The car is pretty new at 26k miles but I am concerned about a repainted trunk matching the rest of the car, a problem the full body color sand wouldn't have. I'm also concerned about a mediocre color sanding job ending up looking worse than the factory finish.

I don't know enough about detailing to know the benefits and risks of either choice... any ideas?

Thanks!

 

So i was all ready to polish and buff my car today..but guess what? FedEx lost my package

So now i have to file a claim to try and get my $$ back so i can order another set from DI...just my luck!