Unfortunately, SSR1 won't remove much in terms of imperfections, whether it's via hand or with a buffer. I typically recommend the SSR 2.5 and 1 combo together.

George

 

Hi George,

First off, thank you as always for taking the time to answer all our questions. I have placed many orders from your store and will continue to always use you because your products and customer service are second to none!


Now on to my questions.
I have a few spots on my car with some deep scratches that are going to require at least a medium to heavy polish. The rest of the car should be ok with a medium to light polish.

Question #1)
I'm a big fan of Menzerna products but don't really want to spend the $50 on 32oz of the PO83 since I won't need anywhere near that much of it. Can I use something like the Poorboys SSR3 (w/yellow pad) then follow it up with Menzerna PO106ff (w/orange pad)?
Or do I need to add a middle step with something like the Menzerna Intensive Polish (w/orange pad) or Poorboys SSR2.5 (w/orange pad) and then finish with the PO106ff(w/white pad)?

Question #2)
Is there a better or additional final polish I should use after the PO106ff? I have had good results without it but thought I would ask while it's on my mind.

Question #3)
What sealant would you recommend to go with your answer to #1 & 2? I still have a decent amount of Menzerna FMJ I could use or is there something else I should try.

Question #4)
Should I also use a glaze or am I just going overboard?
I have never used a glaze before but am open to trying it if you think I will see real world results. My car is not shown very often and is a daily driver.

Question #5)
If I should use a glaze, it goes after the final polish step and before the sealant right? What pad is best, what speed (on my PC), and how slow do I apply it? I know with my polish I go slow but with the sealant I go pretty fast.


Again, thanks for everything. I'll be placing my next order after I hear back from you and get the final details figured out.


Edit: BTW, the car is black.

 

thanks for getting back to me so quickly i have another quick question, the day after or a few days later theres dust on the car, is it safe to spray somthing like meguiurs ultimate quickdetail spray on the car and wipe off with mf towl???

 

Finally got around to washing my car today. I'm going to clay the vehicle do polish tomorrow but a few quick questions before I do:

First off, is it ok to do the steps of the detailing process over several days? Such as washing it one day then claying and polishing another day and so on. I work on and off and sometimes don't get around to finishing things right away. Would I have to rewash my car before claying, polishing, sealing, or washing if I am leaving it in the garage overnight?

Also, I bought some 3M blue painter's tape today. What areas should I be taping off for the polishing process? I know I should probably cover the emblem and lettering. Is there anything else that I would have to tape up?

And what areas are NOT safe to polish? Can the panel covering the moonroof be polished? What about the brake light on the lip of the spoiler?

As always, your help and advice is much appreciated.

 

Keep use posted on what you end up using and how everything turns out

Ideally, you want to use a QD that has cleaners in it, I'm not sure if the Meg's UQD offers that or if it's more of a gloss enhancer / spray on protectant. If you go this route, you want to make sure you're using a plush microfiber towel so you aren't adding in new swirls and other imperfections in the paint. My personal favorite is Poorboy's Spray & Wipe to remove light dusting as it's designed specifically to remove dirt and contamination.

I'd try to clump the steps together if possible, you don't want to stretch the process out too far as you'll spend a good amount of time just getting the car re-ready each day. You probably don't have to rewash prior to claying, but I would before polishing and sealing for maximum results.

You want to tape basically anything you don't want the buffer or polish to hit. If you're just starting out with the buffer, I'd recommend taping up more areas to play it safe. Emblems, lettering, any type of trim, lights, antennas, clear bras, sometimes gaps between panels... There's no right or wrong answer, it's more of what you feel comfortable with. Sometimes if you stain trim it will not clean up easily or at all if you get it good enough. I'd stick to the general rule of just polishing your paint at first. If you're not sure if something should be polished or not, I'd let it be.

Hope this helps.

George

 

Thanks George!!!!

I'll get my order in today.

 

Question here:

Just bought my new car (used)

There is paint overspray on all my windows from them fixing the rear bumper (scratchs). My main concern so far is the windsheild as sun loves to reflect off it and blind me! I have already used a clay bar and it did a little bit but didnt remove it all. Should I keep claying the windows?

 

Nice, be sure to keep us posted what you end up trying and how things turn out. Thanks again for your continued support

If the clay was helping, you can continue using it until it's gone. You could step up to a more aggressive clay if you were using a fine grade bar to make the process go faster. On glass, I never hesitate to take a razor blade to stubborn contamination along with some clay lube. As long as you are working it at the proper angle, there is little risk of damaging your glass.

Any of those solutions should do the trick.

George

 

With the CG Vertua Bond, do I need to wash the car after polish or can I just apply this and then go with the FMJ?


Also, instead of the free grit guard or the grout sponge is it possible to get a shipping discount?
Looks like my order is going to be somewhere ~$350.

 

I have a couple of questions about the Poorboy's Wheel sealant. I put it on a couple of days ago but would like some advice. I used a MF towel to apply it and I think it was too thin to use a mf cloth so should I switch to an applicator pad, or is there a better way to apply it? It's also sort of hard to tell whether it's been applied to the whole wheel or not, so am I not using enough? Should I get some wheel polish to use before using the sealant, and if so, which one?

Thanks!

 

If you use the CG Vertua Bond after polishing, you can go right to applying the FMJ without a wash between. The CG VB would act as a paintwork cleaner helping remove any polishing oils and properly prepping the surface for ideal conditions for FMJ.

I've gone back and forth applying PB Wheel Sealant with a microfiber towel or an applicator pad. Usually I end up turning to a foam applicator pad then remove with a microfiber towel. Sometimes when I apply with a microfiber towel, it almost removes it as I'm applying it and it can be difficult to tell which has been applied and which has not as you mentioned. You can get in tighter areas of the wheel easier with the MF towel though.

You could polish your wheels prior to applying the wheel sealant. This can help remove contamination that isn't removed during the normal washing and drying phase as well as brighten up the wheels finish. It can also help give you maximum durability on the PB Wheel Sealant since you would be applying it to a properly prepped surface.

A nice all around metal polish is Optimum Metal Polish.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

 

^ yea that's what I was seeing.. the sealant would mostly be absorbed into the MF cloth and then when I wiped it on, it would come off as well.. maybe I'll use an applicator pad next time.

 

Hi, another quick question after some reading.

So, from my understanding

-A sealant lasts longer than a wax.
-A wax can be applied on top of a sealant (but not the other way around).

If a wax applied on top of a sealant wears off, could I then apply another layer of wax on the previous application of sealant? Or would I have to remove both layers (wax and sealant) and start over from the top? Sorry if that is confusing.

Thanks

 

Good question Dblod2,

Your coat of sealant will still be left behind once the wax coating wears off. All you would need to do is reapply your coat of wax to regain the additional depth and gloss and still have the protection from the sealant there.

The reason you can not benefit from applying the wax under the sealant is that the sealant would try to bond to the wax, which it would have difficulty doing, plus it would only last as long as the wax lasts. Many people think that you can seal in the look of the wax, but that's not the case. Also, typically the final look of your paint is with the last coat you've applied and the reason most people apply wax at the end is for the deeper and wetter finish.

Hope this explains things.

George

 

Good question!
Not sure what others do but I try to polish/seal and wax my car at least twice a year. From there I apply a fresh coat of wax every two months.