Thanks George! That was a good read. I realized a mistake i was making and that i didn't cure NB overnight then apply a layer. You live you learn i guess. Thanks again!

Another question i forgot to mention. I noticed the tips you gave in an earlier post on cleaning the engine bay. Other than covering up my air filter and MAF what else should i cover up? I see random round wires and electrical clips. Should i cover those also? I'm new to engine detailing and a bit afraid of running a hose even at low pressure on my belts,timing cover, etc. Should i just start with a spray bottle?

Thanks again for your advice!

 

hey george. had a few quick questions your always so helpful. i only use mf applicaters and mf towels to dry and buff off the waxx. is it safer if you use the blotting method on the car so you dont induce swirls????

2. i have light swirls on my car so i wanted to know if i can just use pb ssr2 then do i polish it with ssr1, after i do that what is the next step apply wax then sealent???

 

I guess the best rule of thumb to follow, if you're not sure what to do, cover it up. I've done plenty of engine bay details without covering anything and knock on wood, I've never had any issues. You get the hang of what to spray what not to, etc. over time. Do what you feel comfortable with at first. You don't even need to use a hose as you said, degrease and wipe if that's what you're comfortable doing. My mom just picked up a G37X Coupe and I'll try to document an engine bay detail on it this spring.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the positive feedback

When it comes to drying the vehicle, typically what I'll do is use a waffle weave drying towel to blot dry any remaining water, after utilizing the sheeting method. The sheeting method is simply removing your spray nozzle and allowing the water to flow freely onto your paint, starting from the top and working left to right while slowly moving down. The idea is to cascade the water right off your vehicle, which helps get a majority of the water off your car before ever needing a towel.

For light swirls SSR 2 and SSR 1 should be a good combo. Hopefully you're applying it with a buffer for maximum results. The next step after removing the SSR 1 would be to seal first, then if you want to top it with a wax, wait 24 hours to allow the sealant to fully cure, then add your wax. What I usually recommend is waiting for your first maintenance wash after sealing to apply the coat of wax. This ensures the 24 hours has gone by and you're sealant is fully bonded. Plus it makes the next wash some what more enjoyable because you get to enjoy the added depth and gloss of the wax

Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

Cheers,

George

 

yes im gonna be using a pc what color pads should i use to apply the ssr1 and 2 with??? and what sealent would you recomend for my dg coupe . and yes i always use the sheeting method then use my mf towl to blot dry it. thanks for all your help.

another quick question heres a list of stuff ima buy from your site to start detailing pplz cars let me kno what you think

foam master foam gun
2 grit guards
ex-p sealent
pb trim restorer
pb leather stuff
pb wheel sealent
cg citrus wheel gel
citrus wheel cleaner

then im getting this pc kit ttp://www.autogeek.net/popoprkit.html

if theres anythin else you think i need please tell me

 

Get your PC kit from George not autogeek!

 

Just a thought - I have both the PC 7424 and the VRG Flex and I must say that the flex simply destroys the PC in every way imaginable. This machine has so much torque I want to hook it up to the front wheels and have an electric AWD

Seriously, the flex is more money, more of an experts tool, and a bit to handle but once you get used to it there is no going back.

 

ya see i dont have any buffer exp so thats why im going with the pc ill eventlly move up

 

last week i applied Klasse High Gloss Sealant. i had a very difficult time removing the product after i had applied it to the whole car. it didn't haze like a wax does, infact it was hard to even see that the sealant was there. after 45mins i gave up buffing and decided to wax the car to remove the sealant streaks.

my question is this: by waxing so soon after applying the sealant did i void the sealant layer?

i've read a lot of folks saying to wait 24hrs to wax after sealing. i assume this is to let the sealant layer "set". by not waiting did i ruin the sealant layer, or did i just impact the longevity? i'd hate to re-apply sealant so soon because it was a pain.

 

The stuff you have listed looks good above. Regarding the PC kit, consider this option instead, which will give you better results, more pads and save you some money, plus you're buying everything from one place:

Porter Cable 7424
PC Backing Plate for 4" Pads
4x Orange 4" Pads
4x White 4" Pads
Menzerna Intensive Polish
Menzerna PO106FF
Poorboy's Natty's Blue
Poorboy's Spray & Wipe
Poorboy's Spray & Gloss

Total with 10% off for G35 Driver members = 236.16

+1 Thanks Tim

Agreed, Flex is worth every penny over the PC. The time saved from the first use makes it worth while alone, not to mention better results. Thanks for the input elrooko

Chances are you just sacrificed some of the durability of the sealant. There was some of the sealant that bonded to the paint during the time you removed it and before you applied the wax. I'd monitor the way the water reacts on your paint (beading, sheeting, etc.) and reapply when you feel there is no protection left.

With any sealant, it's best to let the layer cure for 24 hours before topping it with a second layer of sealant or a carnauba wax.

Cheers,

George

 

so with all the stuff i listed lus what u listed come to 236??? if so ill be buying lal this with in 2 weeks from u hten

 

Yep, the only price that would change from now and then is the Poorboy's Spray & Gloss which is on sale for $2 off, so yea still just under $240.

Looking forward to it.

George

 

I have a clear bra/detailing question.

I've had my G35 for almost a year now and am planning on getting a clear bra on just my front bumper. My question is after it's installed and when I go to wax/detail my car, will the rest of the car be shinnier/glossier than the front bumper (where the clear bar is installed)?!

Thnx in advance.

 

ok 1 more quick question which is betetr the merenze or the souversn polish and final polish for thats for swirls correct??? becuase iwas gonna buy ssr1 and ssr2 for my minor swirls that i have and will work on most ppls cars i do

 

hey another question lol will ssr2 and ssr1 combo work on my dads mustang heres a pic and its wat the whole car looks like and what colro pads should i get to apply polish such as ssr1 and to apply wax??? like synthetic wax [IMG][/IMG]

 

Hey George,

Can you give us some more info on this?
How is it so much better than the PC? Maybe I need to sell mine and upgrade...