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  #871  
Old 02-12-2009, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Dblod2
Hi,

I made a substantial purchase from your site yesterday. Did I cover everything or is there something else I need to get? I'll also have some questions about how to properly use these products very soon .

Also, how are the products I chose? It is for an OB coupe. I know I should probably have asked before buying it, but it didn't come to me at the time as it was an impulse buy after quite a bit of reading.

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Product Quantity Total Cost
---------------------------------------------------------------------
303: Aerospace Protectant - 16 oz 1 $11.69
303: Fabric & Vinyl Cleaner - 32 oz 1 $12.82
Chemical Guys: Citrus Wash & Gloss - 16 oz 1 $7.19
Chemical Guys: Fine Grade Clay Bar - 180 g 1 $18.80
Chemical Guys: Jet Seal 109 - 16 oz 1 $35.99
Chemical Guys: Synthetic Quick Detailer - 16 oz 1 $8.99
DI Accessories: Sheepskin Wash Mitt 1 $8.99
DI Packages: Porter Cable 7424 Starter Kit 1 $199.99
Gilmour: Foamaster II Foam Gun - 1/2 Gallon Tank 1 $53.99
Grit Guard: Grit Guard Insert 1 $8.54
Menzerna: PO106FA Nano Polish (Super Finish) - 32 oz 1 $44.99
Menzerna: Super Intensive Polish PO83 - 32 oz 1 $44.99
P21S: Finish Restorer - 75 ml 1 $8.99
P21S: Gel Wheel Cleaner - 500 ml Kit 1 $15.29
P21S: Pure Carnauba Wax 1 $44.99
P21S: Total Auto Wash - 1000 ml Kit 1 $15.29
Poorboy's World: Bold 'n Bright - 16 oz 1 $9.40
Stoner: Invisible Glass - 19 oz 1 $4.27
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Subtotal: $555.21
Shipping: $0.00
Tax: $0.00
Total: $555.21
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Dblod,

Thanks for the post and your support

The products you selected are going to work great with your OB coupe. I can tell you did your research before ordering. You've got all the areas covered from exterior, interior, wheel and tire care and engine bay detailing. The only thing I see missing is microfiber, which you may have already. Using quality microfiber is just as important as the products you use and you can never have enough.

Please do not hesitate to ask me any questions you may have on the stuff you ordered and be sure to post up some pics after your hard work. I'm sure your car is going to look better than new with some TLC.

Congrats and thanks again.

Originally Posted by elayman
darn shipping from NY takes forever
Unfortunately, NY -> Cali is 5 business days unless you upgrade to some sort of express shipping. One way to look at it, it gives you more time to research the best ways to use the products you ordered so your results turn out that much better

Originally Posted by jeneah
Thanks for the info! I will try it when it gets nice.

Jeff
Cheers, let us know if this method works any better.

George
 
  #872  
Old 02-14-2009, 08:32 PM
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Hi George,

Great thread, i have benefitted alot, and from ur forum... Thanks alot!

I would love ur input on my detailing plan for my G35 Red 03 (just bought it a week or so ago)... if u dont mind , it seems to have been garaged for a while, has light/ light med swirls. I will be applying all the products with the meguiers G330 polisher

Washing and drying:
Zymol autobath
sheepskin mit
Microfibre mit
2 buckets (with grit guards)
waffle weave mf towel x2

Claying:
Chemical guys clay block and luber

Polishes:
PO 106 FA
HD Cleanse

q1) Are these two polishes the same grade of finishing or is one finer than the other? if so it would be worth using one after the other? If not which one is better?
q2) I have Zymol carbon wax, i read that u have to use HD before u can apply this, can i use the PO106 instead (if it is better or better to use 2nd)
Q3) Do you think i should invest in Menzerna Intensive Polish PO85RD 3.02 even though the paint is not to bad, will it still improve the end look?
Q4) Do i need to add anything to this step?

Glaze:
Clearkote Red Moose Glaze

Sealent:
Poorboys EX-P Sealant

Q5) Will applying the above glaze and sealent effect the zymol wax application?

Wax:
Zymol carbon

Q6) can i apply this wax with the G220?

Q7) Forgot to mention that i have a selection of lake country pads, but would like ur opinion on which pad u would use for each step. And can i use Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer to prime the new pad?

Q8) did i miss anything and do u have any suggestions?

Sorry for the long post and number of questions just wanted to get ur input & guidance, and i would much appreciate any suggestions from a professional.

Thanks very much
 

Last edited by ballistic350gt; 02-14-2009 at 08:45 PM. Reason: i think i have the correct lake country pads for each step, but would like ur opinion on which pad u would use for each step
  #873  
Old 02-15-2009, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ballistic350gt
Hi George,

Great thread, i have benefitted alot, and from ur forum... Thanks alot!

I would love ur input on my detailing plan for my G35 Red 03 (just bought it a week or so ago)... if u dont mind , it seems to have been garaged for a while, has light/ light med swirls. I will be applying all the products with the meguiers G330 polisher

Washing and drying:
Zymol autobath
sheepskin mit
Microfibre mit
2 buckets (with grit guards)
waffle weave mf towel x2

Claying:
Chemical guys clay block and luber

Polishes:
PO 106 FA
HD Cleanse

q1) Are these two polishes the same grade of finishing or is one finer than the other? if so it would be worth using one after the other? If not which one is better?

In my opinion, these two polishes serve different purposes. PO106FA is more of a true finishing polish that can remove some light to moderate imperfections, while enhancing the gloss. HD Cleanse is more of a pre-wax cleaner, that can help remove any oils left behind from polishing and properly prep the surface of the paint for the Zymol wax to bond to. It may be able to remove light oxidation and other things like water spots and very light surface swirls, but to my knowledge, it's less aggressive than the 106FA.

q2) I have Zymol carbon wax, i read that u have to use HD before u can apply this, can i use the PO106 instead (if it is better or better to use 2nd)

You'd benefit from using both the PO106FA and HD Cleanse, however, it may conflict with the rest of your planned outline which I'll explain below.

Q3) Do you think i should invest in Menzerna Intensive Polish PO85RD 3.02 even though the paint is not to bad, will it still improve the end look?

It really depends on how deep the imperfections are. If PO106FA doesn't cut it for removing the imperfections in your paint, then the PO85RD 3.02 or PO83 Super Intensive Polish would be the next option I'd look into

Q4) Do i need to add anything to this step?

Glaze:
Clearkote Red Moose Glaze

Sealent:
Poorboys EX-P Sealant

From my past experience, these two products do not play nicely together. If you're are opting to go the sealant route, I'd skip the CK RMG altogether.

Q5) Will applying the above glaze and sealent effect the zymol wax application?

For optimal results in looks and compatibility with the products you listed, you'd probably want to go wash -> clay -> 106FA -> HD Cleanse -> Carbon Wax. Keep in mind this protection will not last nearly as long as the sealant would off though, so you sacrifice durability

Wax:
Zymol carbon

Q6) can i apply this wax with the G220?

I'd recommend applying any paste wax via hand application

Q7) Forgot to mention that i have a selection of lake country pads, but would like ur opinion on which pad u would use for each step. And can i use Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer to prime the new pad?

I typically don't prime any pads with the Menzerna polishes, I simply use 3 pea sized drops per working area. Typically I'd use a white polishing pad with PO106FA, a black finishing pad with HD Cleanse and if you needed to step up to the PO83/PO85RD 3.02 then I typically use an orange pad.

Q8) did i miss anything and do u have any suggestions?

Your overall process looks on point, the only issue I see is the potential bonding issue with the RMG and EX-P.

Sorry for the long post and number of questions just wanted to get ur input & guidance, and i would much appreciate any suggestions from a professional.

Thanks very much
If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask. Keep us posted on how everything turns out for you.

Cheers,

George
 
  #874  
Old 02-15-2009, 07:59 PM
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Would it be alright to use the poorboy's wheel sealant that I ordered on my Titanium tips of my exhaust? Would it harm anything? Would it make them shine/protect them
 
  #875  
Old 02-15-2009, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by elayman
Would it be alright to use the poorboy's wheel sealant that I ordered on my Titanium tips of my exhaust? Would it harm anything? Would it make them shine/protect them
I've used it before on exhaust tips, you shouldn't have any problems. The only downside is that the heat generated from the exhaust is so high the coating will not last too long on the tips. While it does last, it makes cleaning significantly easier and keeps them shiny looking.

George
 
  #876  
Old 02-15-2009, 08:51 PM
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since they do get hot, will it melt any stains into the titanium?
 
  #877  
Old 02-16-2009, 05:00 AM
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Thanks alot for your reply, cleared up any issues i had.

I will prob keep the sealent in there as it is my everyday driver. From what i understand from your reply this will still give a great result but without would be optimum?

Seems a shame to drop the CK RMG as i just bought it.

Do you have any detailing product website is uk? or one you woud recommend?

Thanks again, you have been a big help
 
  #878  
Old 02-16-2009, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by elayman
since they do get hot, will it melt any stains into the titanium?
I haven't heard of that happening. Keep your coats thin and apply a couple of them to get the most out of it. You shouldn't get any discoloration or stains on the tips that are any different than if you didn't use the sealant. I know some tips will stain or discolor because of how hot the tips can get.

Originally Posted by ballistic350gt
Thanks alot for your reply, cleared up any issues i had.

I will prob keep the sealent in there as it is my everyday driver. From what i understand from your reply this will still give a great result but without would be optimum?

Seems a shame to drop the CK RMG as i just bought it.

Do you have any detailing product website is uk? or one you woud recommend?

Thanks again, you have been a big help
To be honest with you, unless you're familiar with doing that entire process and memorizing the way your car looks with just the wax on the paint, I don't think you'd literally see a difference between what I suggested as the optimal solution and the option with the sealant there. Certain products from manufacturers do work well together and I know a few detailers who use Zymol do recommend using the HD Cleanse directly underneath the wax for optimal results. Ideally, you'd want to let the sealant cure for a full 24 hours before topping it with the wax.

You can check here for a quality UK detailing site. Hopefully it can save you on some shipping.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
 
  #879  
Old 02-16-2009, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
I haven't heard of that happening. Keep your coats thin and apply a couple of them to get the most out of it. You shouldn't get any discoloration or stains on the tips that are any different than if you didn't use the sealant. I know some tips will stain or discolor because of how hot the tips can get.

Thanks for the tip. It just arrived today but was too rainy to apply it. I'll try it out sometime this week and post back w/ results
 
  #880  
Old 02-17-2009, 01:41 AM
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Just recieved my 37 pound package of detailedimage products in the mail today. I can't wait to start using them. After reading quite a bit on these forums, I feel confident that I am ready to give the PC and polishes a go but before I do, are there any precautions that I should take? Anything I should be careful with or is the device pretty newbie-friendly? I understand that the question is quite broad, I just didn't know how else to put it. Don't want to do any damage to my car with a piece of unfamiliar equipment.

Also, how do I get to hard-to-reach areas such as behind door handles, under and around the rear spoiler and such?
 

Last edited by Dblod2; 02-17-2009 at 01:46 AM.
  #881  
Old 02-17-2009, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by elayman
Thanks for the tip. It just arrived today but was too rainy to apply it. I'll try it out sometime this week and post back w/ results
Sounds good, looking forward to hearing about your results.

Originally Posted by Dblod2
Just recieved my 37 pound package of detailedimage products in the mail today. I can't wait to start using them. After reading quite a bit on these forums, I feel confident that I am ready to give the PC and polishes a go but before I do, are there any precautions that I should take? Anything I should be careful with or is the device pretty newbie-friendly? I understand that the question is quite broad, I just didn't know how else to put it. Don't want to do any damage to my car with a piece of unfamiliar equipment.

Also, how do I get to hard-to-reach areas such as behind door handles, under and around the rear spoiler and such?
The PC is pretty user friendly, you'd have to force something to happen to damage your paint. Stick to the following rules and you'll experience great results:

- Apply 15 ~ 20 lbs of pressure
- Move the buffer at 1" per second (yes, it's very slow!)
- Work in small areas first until you get the hang of it, like 12" x 12", then move up to 18" x 18" or so.
- Apply about 3 pea sized drops of polish for each working area
- Pass over each spot of your working area 6 - 8 times prior to removing the broken down polish with a microfiber towel by hand
- Use speed settings between 4 - 6 when polishing
- Use at least 500w halogen lighting to expose the imperfections
- Tape off any trim or area that you do not want polish to get on

For the harder to reach areas, just tape off the areas you don't want polish to get on and take your time. You could eventually invest in a 4" pad kit which will allow for more maneuverability and the ability to get in tighter areas.

Good luck and be sure to keep us posted on how everything turns out for you.

Thanks again for your support

George
 
  #882  
Old 02-17-2009, 12:24 PM
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hey i have a few questions, i washed my car today with an amorall microfiber wash mit with just one bucket of water i live in ny after i was done it had like fine scratches why is that?? i wnated to find out what is the 2bucket metho and should i get grit guards??? and what steps should itake not to get swirls all i use is micrfiber drying towls and was with a soft applicater pad and wipe off with a mf towl as well.. and i wanted to know wat polsih is good for removing swilrs iwas looking at poorboys polish and sealant??? and i wanted to know what otc soaps are good for our g35s like what 2 can i mix to get alot of silky sudds. thanks agian
 
  #883  
Old 02-17-2009, 01:27 PM
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Those pointers were exactly what I was looking for. I am going to look into getting some proper lighting.

Edit: Found the answer to my question.
 

Last edited by Dblod2; 02-18-2009 at 02:09 AM.
  #884  
Old 02-18-2009, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by g35ryder19
hey i have a few questions, i washed my car today with an amorall microfiber wash mit with just one bucket of water i live in ny after i was done it had like fine scratches why is that?? i wnated to find out what is the 2bucket metho and should i get grit guards??? and what steps should itake not to get swirls all i use is micrfiber drying towls and was with a soft applicater pad and wipe off with a mf towl as well.. and i wanted to know wat polsih is good for removing swilrs iwas looking at poorboys polish and sealant??? and i wanted to know what otc soaps are good for our g35s like what 2 can i mix to get alot of silky sudds. thanks agian
The two bucket wash system is where you fill up one bucket with clean water and your second with the shampoo mixture. Ideally, you'll want at least 1 Grit Guard bucket insert on your rinse bucket to help maximize releasing contamination from your wash mitt.

Essentially, what you're doing is rinsing your wash mitt in the clean water prior to dunking it in the bucket of suds. This helps ensure you aren't putting contaminated water back on your paint which helps minimize adding imperfections.

When drying, I'd recommend sheeting as much water off before you put any type of towel to your paint. By this I mean, remove the hose nozzle and allow the water to free flow from the top of your car down. Move the hose left to right, then right to left, while moving the hose lower each time. This helps catch and cascade the water right off your car leaving you with much less water to dry. From there, I'd recommend blot drying the rest of your car with a waffle weave microfiber towel.

Poorboy's Polish with Sealant is a non-abrasive chemical polish and will not remove any swirls or scratches. You need to use abrasive polishes to effectively remove swirl marks and other imperfections. I'd recommend looking at the Menzerna line of polishes, ideally, paired up with a quality buffer such as the Porter Cable 7424 or Flex XC 3401 VRG.

I'm not too familiar with the OTC shampoos, so I can't give you much advice there.

Hope this helps!

Originally Posted by Dblod2
Those pointers were exactly what I was looking for. I am going to look into getting some proper lighting.

Edit: Found the answer to my question.
Sounds good. Having the proper lighting can make or break a polishing job. Without seeing the imperfections clearly, it's tough to know if you're actually removing them.

Let us know how everything turns out for you.

George
 
  #885  
Old 02-18-2009, 10:53 AM
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ok thanks ya i always use the sheeting method ima be geting a pc soon but i was thinking about geting the poorboys ssr1 for my minor swirls can i apply that by hand for now??? or do i have to use ssr2.5 then use ssr1?? thanks for quick response
 


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