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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 10:01 AM
  #1126  
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From: Phoenix
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http://www.modified.com/index.html

The results of George's products and advice!
 
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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 11:08 PM
  #1127  
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From: G35NYC
My clear coat has yellowed considerably, is there any way to get it less yellow and more clear lol
 
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 01:20 AM
  #1128  
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Maybe a good polish to take the top layer off. I'll wait for the expert to chime in.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 04:08 PM
  #1129  
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Originally Posted by bocatrip
George, I've been a member of this Forum Since 2003 and this is my first question for you. I am the original owner of my 04 Coupe which is primarily garaged. The black leather steering wheel is starting to show small cracking and dryness on the top section (12:00) When I apply Lexol, the towel gets very black from the wheel. Is there anything left for me to do?, or am I bascially looking at having to recover or replace my steering wheel? I only have 34,000 miles and as previously mentioned, the car has mostly been garaged. I do live in Florida though, and I have not put anything on the steering wheel since I purchased it in 03. Any imput would be greatly appreciated.
The only thing I can think of that may help a little bit more than the Lexol is trying an application of the Leatherique products. To give you an idea of what it's capable of, here's a step-by-step Leatherique guide by one of the top professional detailers. Leatherique works great on leather and vinyl surfaces.

The black you are experiencing is probably because the coating wore off of the steering wheel and your towel is picking up some of the dye from the leather when it is soaking in product.

Keep us posted on what you end up using and how things turn out for you.

Originally Posted by denishot
My clear coat has yellowed considerably, is there any way to get it less yellow and more clear lol
Originally Posted by ttrank
Maybe a good polish to take the top layer off. I'll wait for the expert to chime in.
Tim hit the nail on the head. Chances are you are experiencing some oxidation and to remove it you'd need to properly polish your paint. You could start with a chemical cleaner, such as Klasse All In One. The nice thing about this is you can hand apply it. Work it into the paint using some pressure on a foam applicator pad and remove with a quality microfiber towel.

If that doesn't do the trick, then you'll have to step up to abrasive polishes and those are best applied using a quality buffer.

Hope this helps,

George
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 02:10 AM
  #1130  
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From: G35NYC
Thanks ttrank and Detailed Image
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:36 AM
  #1131  
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From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by bocatrip
George, I've been a member of this Forum Since 2003 and this is my first question for you. I am the original owner of my 04 Coupe which is primarily garaged. The black leather steering wheel is starting to show small cracking and dryness on the top section (12:00) When I apply Lexol, the towel gets very black from the wheel. Is there anything left for me to do?, or am I bascially looking at having to recover or replace my steering wheel? I only have 34,000 miles and as previously mentioned, the car has mostly been garaged. I do live in Florida though, and I have not put anything on the steering wheel since I purchased it in 03. Any imput would be greatly appreciated.
This is a little unorthodox, but one thing that helped reduce the appearance of cracking and wear on my steering wheel was some good 'ol fashioned shoe polish. Apply, give it 5 mins and brush and buff just like your favorite pair of loafers. And no, it doesn't get onto your hands or legs so long as you buff it off properly.

I don't know if George would approve of this method but it did a pretty decent job!
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 11:57 AM
  #1132  
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From: Edmond, OK
George, question on the ONR (optimum no rinse) wash/sealant. I found clips on youtube with this miraculous product. What is in it baffles me but results look promising. I'm sure the paint has been prepped underneath before they do test results which show much more shine/water sheeting. My car has never been polished, only clayed/waxed with OTC products so I'm sure my results will not be the same. I'm also interested in ONR sealer. How is your experience with these products?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:14 PM
  #1133  
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Originally Posted by AVATAR77
This is a little unorthodox, but one thing that helped reduce the appearance of cracking and wear on my steering wheel was some good 'ol fashioned shoe polish. Apply, give it 5 mins and brush and buff just like your favorite pair of loafers. And no, it doesn't get onto your hands or legs so long as you buff it off properly.

I don't know if George would approve of this method but it did a pretty decent job!
Certainly a way to mask the problem. I've heard of a lot of detailers turn to shoe polish to fix vinyl and leather. Good tip, worth a shot.

Originally Posted by Bigd2k6
George, question on the ONR (optimum no rinse) wash/sealant. I found clips on youtube with this miraculous product. What is in it baffles me but results look promising. I'm sure the paint has been prepped underneath before they do test results which show much more shine/water sheeting. My car has never been polished, only clayed/waxed with OTC products so I'm sure my results will not be the same. I'm also interested in ONR sealer. How is your experience with these products?
The OPT line of products is very effective and they do not disappoint. Optimum No Rinse is the perfect wash product for people who don't have access to a hose to rinse off their vehicle. Even detailers and enthusiasts who have a hose, still turn to ONR as their shampoo and wash method as they feel it's better. I'd recommend pairing it up with a Lake Country Grout Sponge, Grit Guard Inserts and some Waffle Weave Drying Towels. I usually recommend following up with a quick detailer to ensure all of the ONR product is removed and there is no streaking. Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer is a great option.

Optimum Opti-Seal is a great product to use to easily protect your paint for months. I had one of the top professional detailers submit a review on Optimum Opti-Seal, see what you think.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

Cheers,

George
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 01:08 AM
  #1134  
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From: Boca Raton Fl
Originally Posted by AVATAR77
This is a little unorthodox, but one thing that helped reduce the appearance of cracking and wear on my steering wheel was some good 'ol fashioned shoe polish. Apply, give it 5 mins and brush and buff just like your favorite pair of loafers. And no, it doesn't get onto your hands or legs so long as you buff it off properly.

I don't know if George would approve of this method but it did a pretty decent job!
Amazingly enough, I had tried this a few days ago (before hearing back from George) and was quite surprised at the results. The cracking was substantially reduced and yes, after using a special brush for shoes, and then a soft cloth, it does not come off on my hands. In addition, it has a nice gloss and it's very hard to see the area that was affected. I'm just wondering if there would be any harm in repeating the application. I wonder if it would build up a layer and fill in any remaining cracks. GREAT STUFF! shoe polish...Go figure!
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:10 PM
  #1135  
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Just bought some Nattys Blue for my OB G35. I still have some Zaino Z5 left...should I use that as my basecoat and put Nattys on top of it? How long will Nattys last on it's own without the Zaino Z5?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 06:09 PM
  #1136  
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Originally Posted by bocatrip
Amazingly enough, I had tried this a few days ago (before hearing back from George) and was quite surprised at the results. The cracking was substantially reduced and yes, after using a special brush for shoes, and then a soft cloth, it does not come off on my hands. In addition, it has a nice gloss and it's very hard to see the area that was affected. I'm just wondering if there would be any harm in repeating the application. I wonder if it would build up a layer and fill in any remaining cracks. GREAT STUFF! shoe polish...Go figure!
Glad to hear this worked for you. If you try another layer, be sure to keep us posted on how it turns out. I do not have any experience doing this, but I don't see any harm in trying another coat as long as the first coat is fully cured.

Originally Posted by harley01
Just bought some Nattys Blue for my OB G35. I still have some Zaino Z5 left...should I use that as my basecoat and put Nattys on top of it? How long will Nattys last on it's own without the Zaino Z5?
Natty's Blue has the tendency to last around 6 - 8 weeks on it's own. It's more durable than most carnauba waxes. For the best of both worlds though, top the Zaino with the Natty's (after it has cured of course) for durable protection and the added depth and gloss of the wax.

Cheers,

George
 
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 09:16 PM
  #1137  
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From: Quahog RI
Im going to be painting my car a dark brown metallic this weekend so Im gonna need the proper materials to maintain my new paint. Ive been reading a lot on your DU forum so I think I know what I need. Just to make sure I get everything I need some supervision on my list. Ill will be placing the order on your site since Ive learned a lot on there.

1.Sheep skin wash mit and grout sponge
2. Grit Guard
3. Poor Boys Super suds
4 DI Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel

Will this hold me over till Im ready for my first wax?

Will the detailing products I buy in the future be the same as if I were maintaining a black car? My color is the Infiniti FX brown.

Thanks
 
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 10:34 PM
  #1138  
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From: Woodbury, MN
Pad sizes

Hi George,

In another thread some experienced detailers are commenting that they prefer to use the 4" pads on a PC instead of the 6.5". Once such comment along these lines is

The PC just doesn't have enough power to properly break down polishes using 6"+ pads in a reasonable amount of time.
What are your thoughts on this? Under what circumstances would you recommend using either 4" or 6.5" pads?

Thanks.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 11:25 AM
  #1139  
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From: Southwest Houston
Hey, George.
I saw you're having a sale on Lake Country Products, so I had to jump on this deal.
I was looking into getting some 4 inch pads for my FLEX XC 3401 VRG, but I need to get the backing plate.
Will this "Backing Plate for 4-Inch Pads" be compatible with my buffer?
I see in the description it works with the PC 7424. Just wondering if I can use that backing plate on my FLEX. If so, I'll be ordering very soon.

Thanks!
 
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 11:47 AM
  #1140  
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Originally Posted by FlSHRFun
Hey, George.
I saw you're having a sale on Lake Country Products, so I had to jump on this deal.
I was looking into getting some 4 inch pads for my FLEX XC 3401 VRG, but I need to get the backing plate.
Will this "Backing Plate for 4-Inch Pads" be compatible with my buffer?
I see in the description it works with the PC 7424. Just wondering if I can use that backing plate on my FLEX. If so, I'll be ordering very soon.

Thanks!
Unfortunately, the Flex doesn't offer any other backing plates aside from a replacement of the stock backing plate. Right now the smallest pad you could use would be a 5.5" pad or 6" pad (5.5" goes edge to edge and doesn't give you much room for error).

That backing plate is specific for the PC threading only.

The problem is the Flex has a gear built into the backing plate.

Regards,

George
 
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