Hi folks , new member.

Great Forum , and something I needed desperately.

My 09 G37x has self healing paint ! awesome because scratches disappear very fast in the sun or under hot water ( is a curse too !! )

Some one was doing some cement work on a public road , and they left the cement bucket filling and it ran into the road , 3 days later I notice I have cement drips all over my car , front and back , they seem to be embedded into the paint ! Which really ticked me off.

Is there any way to get this out ? Should I clay bar the whole car ? Also just looking at it out my window I notice it's all over my rims as well. And a pressure washer did not take it off. Any suggestions ?

Thanks.

 

I'll definitely be interested in hearing what you think of Purple Haze or Blue Velvet compared to Supernatural. On the few cars I've used SN on, it's simply blown me away. Never used it on jet black though.

Glad to hear your paint is the best if has looked Keep up the great work Tim. Thanks for sharing.

I'd start by using a clay bar as you mentioned to ensure there is no more cement still on the paint. Then I'd follow up with a very mild polish to remove any marring that the clay may have caused as well as the cement stains. Something like Menzerna PO106FA would be a good starting point on a white pad considering you have the newer self healing paint. You want to take the least aggressive approach as possible w/ the self healing clear coats.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

Cheers,

George

 

Hey George, I got stuffs and posted detailed pics in Media G35 section.
I did not polish it yet. I am thinking about getting Menzerna SIP and Final Polish II
How does this combo works with Makita Rotary buffer?? If not, can you recommend some polish and final polish products? I really liked ur black Acura TL detailed

 

Thanks George , will try and order some today with winter coming I want to get this poor car full of something to seal it before it gets way to cold.

 

Hey George one more question, this paint is a bear to deal with , do you happen to know if they allow waxing ? , the dealer said id never have to wax it , but I figured I'd ask first.

Can't wait for the stuff to get here now clean my baby up and try and get it ready for the winter.

 

George,

How would Chemical Guys Vertua-Bond 408 work if you were going to glaze before using FMJ?

How would the procedure go if I was going to Vertua bond, then glaze, then seal?

Is there time I should wait between each of the steps?

Is it necessary to vertua bond if I am going to glaze and then seal?

Would you reccomend doing all three or skipping vertua bond or glazing?

 

Thanks for sharing, your car looks very sharp and clean, got the white to pop pretty nicely in those photos!

For soft paint on the Makita, I'd suggest the following combo, Menzerna Power Finish using green pads followed by Menzerna PO85RD on black pads. This will yield just about the same cut as SIP but will finish down much glossier than the combo you had picked out. You'll be very pleased I can assure you!

Let me know what you end up going with and how things turn out! Thanks.

You'll always have to protect your car one way or another, with a sealant or wax. Sealants are going to offer 3 - 6 months of protection vs 3 - 8 weeks from most waxes. If they dealer told you that you'll never have to wax (or seal), they have no idea what they are talking about and just tried to sell you on their BS paint protection / warranty.

Basically what you want to do is choose if you want to wax more frequently, but enjoy a little more depth and gloss and easier maintenance. Or seal less often and only have to detail once a season or so.

Looking forward to hearing how things turn out.

Good question. I'd look at Vertua-Bond as the glaze under the sealant. It's a paint cleaner that will enhance the gloss a tad as well as give you an ideal surface for the sealant to bond to. You'd be doing double work if you were to say use Vertua-Bond then EZ Creme Glaze, simply pick one or the other and go with it. Most paint prep / paint cleaners are glazes in one form or the other, certain ones just offer more prep or more gloss. Personally, I'd use one of those two products under FMJ, or FTG is designed to work with FMJ too, but I find it too finicky for my liking. If you have a glaze you plan on using prior to the FMJ, I'd personally skip the VB.

Thanks again for all of your support. Keep me posted on what you end up going with and how things turn out

George

 

Thanks for recomending it. What about wax and sealent??? I currently use Meguiar's Cleaner wax, but I don't think it works for me. Also I might do polishing for my sister's car, which is BMW black and g37 OB. Can I use those polish that you recommend for these cars? Her BMW has a lot scratches.

I was gonna do it by PC 7424, but I am gonna sell it to other people or return to the service company and spent more money on washing supplies and get Makita from my friend. PC has a lot of vibration that my hand hurts a lot....even with 6 counterweight.
Do you have any tips for Makita? I heard that it is a monster......"Dangerous"



These are from my car...I did some polish by PC with SSR 2.5 and SSR1, but did not work at all.

Do you know how get rid of these?? I heard these are rail dust??? I cannot remove it with clay..What should I do?

 

I ended up taking a 6:1 diluted mixture of CG Grime Reaper to the trim piece and scrubbed it with an old soft toothbrush I had lying around. I then wiped it off with a MF towel and topped it with Optimum Protectant Plus and buffed it a bit with the dry side of the same MF towel. Here are the results:



Great results as you can see. I don't recall if that part came as a glossy black or matte black from the factory, but I just may pick up the Black WOW or the PBW's trim restorer to see if that'll bring out the black even more.

 

It is matte black from the factory.

 

how should i clean tire rub marks?

 

After you've wet sanded an area whats the best type of polish to bring it back to a shine. I usually use Griots garage stuff but am running out.

 

This is my gf's mother's Volvo:

Passenger side C-pillar by the rear windshield


Driver's side A-pillar by the front windshield


I believe all, if not the majority, of the clearcoat chipped and peeled away allowing dirt, crud, and crap get into the rear C-pillar and build up. The front A-pillar has some clear coat peeling off. Are there any options to work with these or is this car's pillars SOL?

 

Sorry for the delayed replies guys, I got hit with the flu and haven't had as much time on the computer...

You can certainly use those polishes I recommended on the BMW, should come out great especially on a rotary buffer, like the Makita 9227C.

Some good sealant options are Blackfire Wet Diamond, Optimum Opti-Seal, Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109. None of those disappoint me whenever I use them, very easy to apply and remove as well.

For a wax, depends what you're looking for, bang for the buck Natty's Blue is a great all around wax for $20. Another great all around wax with good value, Chemical Guys 50/50 wax. It's deceiving because it's somewhat expensive, but you get 16 oz of product instead of the typical 8 oz or less. Looks sharp on all colors.

I'm surprised rail dust is being stubborn with clay, always usually works for me. I'd pre-treat the rail dust with a degreaser like Stoner Tarminator, let it dwell, then rinse / wipe and re-clay. You can use a more aggressive medium grade clay too which could help remove them more effectively.

Your going to want to remove the rail dust prior to polishing for optimal results.

Looks great, but as mentioned by Tim, it's a matte black from the factory. Nice turn around with the Grime Reaper though!

Scuffs on tires? Take a rubber degreaser like Optimum Power Clean or Grime Reaper and a stiff brush and scrub your tires.

My favorite combo for restoring deeper imperfections or wet sanding marks is Meguiar's M105 with orange pads, Power Finish with green pads and PO85RD with black pads. You'll be using a buffer right?

They look like they could use a respray at this point. Not much I could recommend to fix those areas unfortunately.

 

Glad you are okay!!

I got some haze on my headlight and can it be moved by just polishing or do I need to wet-sand it?? Can it be repeated for tailight as well?

Thanks!