After applying Natty's, I let it dry and then come back to rub out. I find that areas where I happened to put too much wax are very hard to buff by hand.

Can I safely use my PC and a terry cloth pad to remove the wax?

 

I would put on another application and then you can either take the new and old wax off by hand (which should be easier with the second application) or use your suggested method to take off the new and old.

 

First, you don't want to let the wax dry on your car. The only thing that does is make it hard to remove. Just let it haze (takes maybe a minute) then buff off the excess.

Second, spray some QD on the wax you can't get off. Then it will wipe right off. If you don't have any QD then apply some fresh wax in those spots then buff it off after letting it sit for a few seconds.

You NEVER want to scrub at the wax with your towel to get it off as this will cause cob webbing.

 

Good info.

I find the temperature and humidity affect the hazing/drying time so it might be 1-5 minutes. Various waxes/sealants have different instructions for removal. Most suggest something like "haze to dry" or "dry to a haze" and some can removed almost immediately like Souveran. I can understand why some people have difficulty at times removing . Natty's Blue dries up pretty hard, pretty fast.

 

Good point! When in doubt . . . follow the directions on the label!

 

Try a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and water and you can probably remove the excess with ease.

 

Is there a reason to dilute it? Can I just put a bit onto a towel and wipe? Or is that dangerous?

But I confirm what you are saying. I had some polish dry and I had a hard time getting it off. I put some IA on a towel (very little) and all of it wiped off easy. Followed up by another quick coating of Optimium wax and I'm done.

 

Well I'm not really sure, I've always read 50% is the correct mixture...I'd assume straight alcohol is too strong.

I had a teacher in HS that used sharpies to write on the overhead b/c he didn't like the markers that are built for it and he used IA to clean it so it definetly isn't too weak.

 

Applying a 50/50 iso mix will remove all of the sealant. He will have to start from scratch since that won't just remove the "excess".

The ISO mix is a great prep before applying wax or a sealant. It removes any polish or old wax and is a pretty good final cleaner too.

 

[QUOTE=MikeyC]First, you don't want to let the wax dry on your car. The only thing that does is make it hard to remove. Just let it haze (takes maybe a minute) then buff off the excess.QUOTE]

Isn't that debatable? I have never used Natty's Blue, but many waxes require that you let them dry. In fact, for those waxes, the best way to determine when to remove them is by performing the "swipe test". Take your finger and take a swipe at the wax. If the area under your swipe comes clear, then you can remove the wax. I don't think anyone should make the statement that you should only let wax remain on the car for about a minute.

 

No, it's not debatable because what you describe is letting the wax dry to a haze which is what I recommended. It depends on humidity/heat levels but typically this shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes maximum. Of course, it also depends on the wax you're using because different waxes haze at different rates. Leaving a wax on overnight or for an hour is counter-productive and will only give you the problems that the OP describes in his first post.

Many waxes actually recommend you apply and immediately buff off the excess. This method works well with many waxes. Some of the ones that have super high amounts of oils in them will smear when you do this though. So, you have to know your wax. Experimenting with different techniques will get you the best result.