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Leather treatment

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Old 02-28-2008, 01:17 PM
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Leather treatment

Hi,

a shop in town is wanting to charge me 225 for doing leather treatment inside the car. They say it will help the leather to stay in shap and not crack, etc. Worth it? Does it really work? I bought the car used but it's ok condition inside.
Here's their website:

http://onsmartpages.com/techformulascarsalon/homepage/
 
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Old 02-28-2008, 01:20 PM
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not worth it at all. Our leather is coated leather anyways, just use a UV protectant such as aerospace 303 and you'll be good
 
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Old 02-28-2008, 01:57 PM
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Should I use something to clean it before hand? It is a little dark from the normal use. It's a graphite interior. What do you guys suggest for conditioning. The best product out there?
 
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:25 PM
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I don't condition my leather, I don't feel its necessary with our coated leather. I clean with either aerospace 303 upholstery cleaner or woolite/warm water mixed 1:10 in a bucket
 
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:52 PM
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redlude knows his stuff...I'd trust him...

I have officially jumped on the 303 bandwagon. However I still use Zaino every few months for a good conditioning, and the cleaner for spot treatments. I just love how it smells because 303 is odorless.
 
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Old 02-28-2008, 03:06 PM
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The keys to leather care are; keeping leather (a) hydrated (b) clean, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. A leather protection product is essential as it will protect the surface finish and makes dirt easier to clean off.

Compare automobile upholstery [finished pigmented leather] to a vehicles paint surface with a clear coat;
1. A base material (metal) with a colour coat of water-based polymer paint
[Leather hide pigmented with a water-based polymer resin]

2. A water-based polymer clear coat to provide protection
[Water-based polyethylene clear coating to provide protection]

3. Paint doesn't need oils to feed it (whatever Zymol says) nor does leather; neither is a living thing.
[Leather was removed from a dead animal, it’s then fat-liquored to preserve its oils and then sealed, and it doesn't need oils or creams to feed or condition it, even if they could permeate the various coverings]

As the materials and production methods that are used on automobiles change; we need to adapt to them and adjust products used and their application methodologies to keep pace with them


1.Cleaning- is an essential part of caring for your leather upholstery; use a water-based cleaner to re-hydrate the leather use a pH balanced cleaner around 7.5 - 8.0 as a high pH cleaners may cause premature aging. It not only removes the dirt and oils (which can, over time, break down the leathers hide and the stitching, it can also damage the protective coating of covered leather) a water-based cleaner will also help to maintain the moisture balance in the leather. This is important for keeping the leather supple and makes it less likely to absorb spillages.

Don’t allow grit, dirt or dust to build up to excessive levels as this could have an abrasive affect. Combined with body weight and movement these cause abrasive friction against the leather and greatly increases wear.
Areas which are in contact with your skin and head, for example arms and backrests, car steering wheels etc. should be cleaned regularly, as perspiration breaks down the finish and pigment very quickly. A wipe over with a damp cloth on a regular basis (every week/two weeks) is recommended to remove surface dust and dirt and add moisture to the leather.

Do not spray a cleaner directly on the leather. Use an applicator sponge or cloth to apply the cleaning solution. Spraying a cleaner on hot leather can cause spotting and discolorations. Please remember, that by rubbing hard on the leather surface, you will only push the dirt deeper into the leather

2. Protection –
Protection is an essential element in leather care; abrasive dirt / grit, brought in from the outside via the A/C system and ultra violet radiation (UVR) especially a Roadster’s upholstery. Protection should be applied the first day and thereafter 2 - 4 times per year (dependant upon local climate). It makes it easier to clean and remove any accidental spills, ink marks etc. Being water-based it helps hydration by balancing the necessary moisture level of all leather types (except Nubuck). Although it’s primary purpose is to act as a barrier between the leather surface and any soils that may settle on it. Do not use a weather / water proofing product, as this will not allow a water-based product to permeate.

There are many forms of dirt-

Dry soils-consist of dust and microscopic particles which act in a similar way to fine sandpaper on the leather finish, when subject to friction

Body oils –are the main culprits as micro-body oils (and suntan lotion) will also migrate through clothing and finished leathers, they tend to permeate the surface quickly. Of all the ‘dirt’, they can be the most damaging because the acids in the body oils will have a destructive action on polyurethane leather covering and pigmented leather finishes, causing them to break down over time.

This product will help to provide protection against ultra violet radiation (UVR) oil, water, and alcohol based stains, as well as providing resistance to the effects of daily soiling It places an invisible, breathable barrier between you and your leather. Protect your leather first, and then follow a routine of cleaning and re-protection, this way you are not actually cleaning the original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. Leather Master™ Protection –

Leather Master US - .http://www.topoftheline.com / or http://www.leatherworldtech.com/
Leather Master UK – http://www.leathermasteruk.com/

See also - Basic Leather care - http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ther-care.html
 
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