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Old May 18, 2008 | 05:42 AM
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Detailing Help!

I just began my first detailing job on my car. I started off by using the Mezerna Intensive Polish with the Lake Country Orange Pad. But when I used the pad, it began to throw off a lot of orange flakes. Is this normal? Am I supposed to
"prep" the pad before using a fresh new one? After I did the Mezerna IP, I moved onto the Mezerna PO106FF with the Lake Country White Pad. The white pad also threw off some white flakes, but not much. Once again, are the flakes normal?

I paused, and have not moved forward to the glaze / sealant yet. Will wait for some advice...thanks!
 
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Old May 18, 2008 | 05:53 AM
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a small spritz of a quick detailer could be useful...
 
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Old May 18, 2008 | 09:57 AM
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If the flakes are parts of the pad it may be you are running it into corners that are breaking up the edges. Or you may be letting the pad get too dry and hot before adding more polish. Just be careful with it.
 
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Old May 18, 2008 | 11:34 AM
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Okay. Should I be spraying water onto the pad to keep it moist?
 
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Old May 18, 2008 | 12:33 PM
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Either it's running too dry, too fast or both. I always lightly prep pad with detailers spray. I run 3 -4 to distribute the polish and then 4-5 to complete a section with my PC. Not too much pressure on the pad. Run the polish until it just begins to dust. Never had flakes, but I do periodically lift the pad before it stops and get a face full
 
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Old May 18, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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Work in smaller sections too. The hood can be divided in 3-4 sections, doors in 2-3, and etc.. for the roof and trunk. I typically mist the pad with a Quick Detailer and then apply an X of product across the pad, or you can put two 6-8 in. lines across the section and lightly smear it across the area you are about to work before turning on the PC.

Also, I am assuming you clayed the car prior to polishing?
 

Last edited by blueboxer; May 18, 2008 at 01:13 PM.
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Old May 18, 2008 | 10:33 PM
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Yup I washed, clayed and began the polishing process. I think the pad being too dry might be it...I hope it is. I'm going to continue tonight and finish off the PO106ff. Then off to glaze & sealant. Seems like most people recommend doing small sections for the polish. Does this apply as well to glaze and sealant? Or can I apply the glaze / sealant to the whole panel (hood, door, trunk etc) and then buff off?

Thanks for the advice and help. I'm a noob at this.
 
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Old May 18, 2008 | 11:41 PM
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You can apply the glaze, sealant, and paste wax by hand. Those products do not have to be worked into the paint or broken down like a polish. Just allow them to haze and buff off with a quality microfiber. I usually apply it by going north and south and then east and west to ensure equal distribution and coverage. Most directions call for small circular motions, but I prefer to limit the possibility of any swirls.
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by hanguk9117
Yup I washed, clayed and began the polishing process. I think the pad being too dry might be it...I hope it is. I'm going to continue tonight and finish off the PO106ff. Then off to glaze & sealant. Seems like most people recommend doing small sections for the polish. Does this apply as well to glaze and sealant? Or can I apply the glaze / sealant to the whole panel (hood, door, trunk etc) and then buff off?

Thanks for the advice and help. I'm a noob at this.
With a glaze. Your going to have to do the panel and wipe off when done before you can move onto a sealant or wax. Also with some glazes, a sealant might not bond too. So look up on the glazes your using to make sure a sealant can be use on it.

With wax or using sealant. You can apply it to the whole car. Cause the longer you let it bond to the surface, The longer it would last. If your going to layer, remeber to wait 12-24 hrs between layering. Also myself I apply my wax or sealant in the direction that the water flows on the car. For example. Side's are applied Up and down and back and fourth on the bumpers, hood, roof and trunk
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 04:19 AM
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Wow thanks everyone for all the advice and help with this. Made the whole process easier so far. Just finished the glaze, now on to the sealant. I'll be sure to follow every1's advice.

Oh, FYI: I applied the glaze with the Lake Country Black pad, and it didn't flake at all. I'm assuming it's because the pad is so soft, and I was applying it at speed 3. I finished applying the Mezerna PO106ff before the glaze, using a Lake Country White pad, and I noticed a little flaking. It happened even though I made sure to keep the pad moist with the quick detailer. Argh.
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 05:03 AM
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"Just finished the glaze, now on to the sealant."

A polymer-based glaze and a polymer sealant will work, however a wax/oil based glaze will not allow a polymer sealant to bond
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
"Just finished the glaze, now on to the sealant."

A polymer-based glaze and a polymer sealant will work, however a wax/oil based glaze will not allow a polymer sealant to bond
I'm using the Chemical Guyz Extreme-EZ Creme Glaze (which I believe is a polymer-based glaze) and the Poorboy's EX-P Sealant...which I'm unsure which base it uses. Is that a Polymer Sealant?
 
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