How is the paint on the G35's?

I've finished up detailing all of my cars and am moving on to my fathers 2008 G35 Sedan (Black) which rarely gets washed (when it does it is by one of those parking lot mobile places, not sure of their quality)
I've noticed some minor swirls and some water spots or etching.
I'll be doing this at his house since his garage is larger than mine and I really do not want to take everything I have to see what works best.

I have PC and the following products:
M105
Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover
Wolfgang Finishing Glaze
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
Klasse AIO

I also have yellow, orange, white, gray, and red 5.5" pads.


So, how aggressive do I need in my product choice with this paint?
I hope it is softer than my BMW! That car was a pain.

Thanks.

 

Wow, alot of things here.

First, my 06 black g35 has pretty soft paint. I don't know about the 08's.

Alot of the products you listed are completely incompatible.

First the M105. I've looked into this product recently and everything I've read suggests that this product is more suited to a rotary buffer rather than a PC. It's also a very aggressive product, and if your paint is as soft as mine, you'll probably end up with micro-marring and hazing. In other words, you'll probably do more harm than good.

The wolfgang swirl remover should work. Try different speeds, and/or multiple passes to see what kind of results you get with the PC. I would start with a white pad, then if it doesn't work, move up to the orange. Again, if your paint is as soft as mine, you might find that the orange pad leaves very fine swirls after you polish. In which case you'll need to follow up with a white pad.

At this point, you'll need to make a decision about what kind of final results you want. What kind of look are you going for? What kind of protection are you seeking?

Option 1) Klass AIO/Wolfgang Sealant. This will give your car a glossy, crisp look with very clear reflections. It will also give plenty of long lasting protection through the winter. You don't have to use the Klass AIO, but it will ensure that you clean off all of the polish residue. And it will provide a good acrylic base for the Sealant to bond.

Option 2) AIO/Finishing Glaze/Carnauba Wax. Again, the AIO is optional, for the same reason as in Option 1. The finishing glaze will deepen the gloss, and possibly fill in some defects that you couldn't buff out. You'll have to make a decision when you are finished polishing about this. If the paint still has defects and you don't want to risk over-buffing, then go for the glaze. But if the paint comes out really good (which it should if it is soft), then you won't really need it. The Sealant absolutely WILL NOT bond to the glaze. It may look like it will, but you are sure to have durability problems and significantly reduced gloss and clarity. If you are going to use the glaze, you'll have to top it with a pure carnauba. Again, your choice depends on the results you want. For durability, I like Collinite. For looks I like Pinnacle Souveran. Be careful of waxes that have cleaning capabilities, as that will comprimise the glaze underneath.

 

Nissan and Infiniti paint is soft and i for one would not use m105 with a pc.M105 ia really awesome stuff but i would at least get the flex 3401 to use it with as that has worked for me.

How bad are the swirls and the etching cause wolfgang swirl remover might not be enough.Need pics to really give any decent help.

 

The swirls are not really that bad. I think it is more water spots rather than serious etching, but I have not examined it enough yet.

If the paint is soft then M105 is probably out. I do not think the paint is in that much need.
I have read that the M105 has been reformulated for DA use. I used it on my BMW and got better results with it than I did with the Wolfgang TSR. What would be bad about using the M105 with the PC?


If the swirls are bad enough, what product would you recommend? The TSR seems like a good product, and from what I've read it is comparable to Menzerna SIP.


Also, about the Finishing Glaze. This is actually a finishing polish / glaze. Again, I've read that this is pretty much the same as Menzerna Nano.

I'm thinking I will start with the Finishing Glaze and a white pad and see what I get and then go with the TSR.

I will top it off with the Sealant.



Should I even bother with the AIO, and if so, before or after the Finishing Glaze (which is not just a glaze)?

Thanks.

 

Do not use the Finishing Glaze before the TSR. Do it the other way around. The TSR will clean off the Finishing Glaze.

Don't bother with the AIO. If you were to use it, you would have to do it before the Glaze since AIO will strip the glaze if you apply it after. But if you put the glaze on top of AIO you will need to top the glaze with a pure natural carnauba wax because the synthetic sealant will not bond to the glaze.

 

I didn't say I would do the finishing glaze first then follow that up with the TSR.

What I meant was I would see what my results were using the FG first. If I do not get the results I need then I will go with the TSR and follow that with the FG before sealant.


Again, the Wolfgang Finishing glaze is not a glaze. At least not as I understand it. "This unique formula blends away 2500 grit sanding marks yet finishes with the gloss and slickness of a fine machine glaze. "
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-fin...olish-3-0.html
That sounds like a polish, doesn't it?

So, given that, would it not sound right to follow up the FG with AIO (if I choose to even use AIO).

 

The terms "blend away" and "glaze" by definition mean that the product contains fillers. In other words, it hides the swirls, it will not remove them. It contains polymers that will fill in the defect and finish smoothly.

A polish is an abrasive product that will round off the sharp edges of defects and therefore deminish their appearance.

AIO is a cleaner, and if you use it after the glaze, it will clean off the glaze and reveal the swirls again.

Also, the polymers in the glaze that fill in the defects make a horrible base for a sealant to bond. You can however, top a glaze with a carnauba wax.

If you still don't believe me then go ahead and try the glaze. After you apply it, wipe the panel down with a 1:1 mixture of water and Isopropyl Alcohol and see if the swirls come back. I garauntee that you will see that the Alcohol dissolved the polymers that were filling in the defect and the swirls will reappear.

 

Did you read the link I provided?

Why would Wolfgang recommend the TSR followed by FG followed by their Sealant?

Additionally, the literature provided states: "Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 is a fusion of our original Finishing Glaze formula and Menzerna’s Nano Polish. Menzerna developed this hybrid formula exclusively for Wolfgang The goal was to create a finishing polish with more correction ability, without sacrificing shine. That’s what we have with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0"

It has glaze like properties, I guess, but it is defined as a finishing polish, despite the name. At least that is what I gather from everything else I have read... but, I will do some more research to be sure.

If there is true glaze, in addition to the polish, then you are probably right that following up with AIO is a bad idea.

When I polished my BMW I did use a iso wipe down after all steps and did not notice any change. Then again, my car is silver, so its a lot harder to see, esp with the poor lighting in my garage. The black G35 should be more telling....

 

Ok, so I spent a looong time between Friday and Saturday.
Overall I am very happy with the work I was able to do.. the car was filthy. Ugly spots all over it even after a wash, clay, and wash...
It's not perfect, but it is a huge improvement. Perhaps in the spring I will attempt to remove more of the imperfections.


However, there were some spots I was unable to remove. I spent a good bit of time trying to remove what looks like water etching (I think?) with no luck.
Total Swirl Remover with Orange and Yellow pads. And then M105 with a yellow pad. No luck. I gave up as I did not ant to keep polishing the same area over and over... maybe some 4" pads could have helped?


The entire front end is is VERY rough shape for a car with not that many miles. Its about 6 months old but does see a lot of highway miles. But tons of rock chips over the entire nose and front part of the hood. Really sad actually.


Anyway, and advise on what I could do to get rid of these spots? They are only found on the horizontal surfaces.. all of them.


This looks like a bird bomb??? Notice all the other white spots. These are the chips that are found only on the front end.



Blurry, but water etching?



This is how the car looked all over. The right side is what it looked like after washing, clay, and rewash! The left is after 1 pass with the TSR and an orange pad.



Finished. A cloudy day just about to rain.




One last question. I did notice that I seemed to be putting in some light scratches as I was buffing out the polish. I also found the polish (TSR) to be very hard to remove. Much harder than it was on my BMW. I used a 50/50 alcohol mix to help remove but it did not help. Any thoughts?

 

Autopia.org is a community for professional detailers and hobbyists like us. Do some searches on there and you will find tons of horror stories about Infinity black paint. It's just about impossible to keep it defect free.

But overall, it looks like you did some nice work. It's certainly a dramatic improvement.

 

Thanks.
It is definitely a huge improvement but far from the perfection I see from others work. I am still very new at this.

I am a member of Autopia but am not heavily involved over there yet. I'll do some searches though.
Most of my detailing information so far has come from the bimmerforums' detail section.

 

Nissan paint is very soft.

However, there is a known defect in several batches of Gs that come off the lot especially in BLACK. The plastic was adhered to the panels before the clear has fully cured.

The result is a clear coat that becomes "Sticky" when a machine is put to the paint.

 

I've actually been meaning to research the paint defects on the Black G's.

The front end of this car is in such rough shape. It is only 6 months old and looks like it has 5 years of highway use on it already.


Those spots in the picture above seem to have come back!!! I don't know what the hell that is about. The polish I used is not a filler, so I know they are not just hidden. They were GONE when working on them. However, about a week later I met my father to play some tennis and saw under the street light some of those spots.
Now, I don't know if it is as bad as it was before.. I'll want to bust out my halogens and take a look... but holy crap I was pissed off to see that.

I am going to tape of one of the panels and redo a section and wait a few weeks to see what happens after a 2nd polishing....


Are any of these defects in the black Gs covered by the dealer?

 

think tahts bad check my o4 g out.......


this is the hood of my g, paint readings as low as 50 microns on the front of the hood thats why they chip so easily theres no freekin paint, and your all right black is a pita to keep defect free, best of luck tho mate

 

The first picture is etching from something, needs to be repainted. The second picture almost looks like burnt paint, but its hard to tell.

Infiniti paint is definitely soft from my experiences.