Anybody wet sanded to eliminate factory orange peel? (pics)
#16
07-02-2009, 10:39 AM
#17
07-02-2009, 04:59 PM
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Dan, no I didn't. I'll have to plead ignorance here.... so would you do this after the first polishing step? I used powergloss to remove the sanding scratches, I assume that wiping down the surface after using the powergloss would be most appropriate? (That's the only point in the process where it would make sense to me).
Thanks!
Duane
Thanks!
Duane
I do it before any polishing to make sure there is no left over grease, oils, or silicones still on the paint which may interfere with the polish.
I would do it after compounding to make sure the compound has removed the sanding marks.
I would do it after your second step to make sure it removed the compounding marks.
And you should do a third step which involves using a finishing polish, and a finishing pad, not a glaze. So something like Menzerna 106FF and a CCS blue pad. And I would again clean the paint here to make sure the paint is free of any imperfections, sanding marks, compounding marks, buffer marks, holograms, etc. The cleaning step here also preps the paint for your LSP whether it is a wax or sealant.
Feel free to PM me for more info.
#18
07-03-2009, 12:37 AM
I've been able to remove orange peel from older paint jobs without wetsanding. Wetsanding is fine, but often takes off more paint/clearcoat than necessary.
I start with removing all wax from the paint, then use a rotary buffer with a medium cut polish. After than, follow up with a fine cut polish with a different pad on the rotary buffer.
Once that's done, I switch to a random orbital buffer with Meguiar's Machine Glaze. Lastly, I top it with Klasse AIO. Some people prefer to wax after the Machine Glaze, but I add two coats of Klasse SG, then follow it with a wax based on the color of the paint.
Looks flawless when I'm finished.
Wetsanding is fine for those who've done it before. But it does come with the risk of inconsistent grit in the paper. Unless you're using high grade paper, you stand a chance of chasing wetsand marks throughout the paint.
All in all, it takes me about 6 hours to fully remove orange peel from a standard mid sized car.
I start with removing all wax from the paint, then use a rotary buffer with a medium cut polish. After than, follow up with a fine cut polish with a different pad on the rotary buffer.
Once that's done, I switch to a random orbital buffer with Meguiar's Machine Glaze. Lastly, I top it with Klasse AIO. Some people prefer to wax after the Machine Glaze, but I add two coats of Klasse SG, then follow it with a wax based on the color of the paint.
Looks flawless when I'm finished.
Wetsanding is fine for those who've done it before. But it does come with the risk of inconsistent grit in the paper. Unless you're using high grade paper, you stand a chance of chasing wetsand marks throughout the paint.
All in all, it takes me about 6 hours to fully remove orange peel from a standard mid sized car.
#19
07-03-2009, 09:02 AM
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I've been able to remove orange peel from older paint jobs without wetsanding. Wetsanding is fine, but often takes off more paint/clearcoat than necessary.
I start with removing all wax from the paint, then use a rotary buffer with a medium cut polish. After than, follow up with a fine cut polish with a different pad on the rotary buffer.
Once that's done, I switch to a random orbital buffer with Meguiar's Machine Glaze. Lastly, I top it with Klasse AIO. Some people prefer to wax after the Machine Glaze, but I add two coats of Klasse SG, then follow it with a wax based on the color of the paint.
Looks flawless when I'm finished.
Wetsanding is fine for those who've done it before. But it does come with the risk of inconsistent grit in the paper. Unless you're using high grade paper, you stand a chance of chasing wetsand marks throughout the paint.
All in all, it takes me about 6 hours to fully remove orange peel from a standard mid sized car.
I start with removing all wax from the paint, then use a rotary buffer with a medium cut polish. After than, follow up with a fine cut polish with a different pad on the rotary buffer.
Once that's done, I switch to a random orbital buffer with Meguiar's Machine Glaze. Lastly, I top it with Klasse AIO. Some people prefer to wax after the Machine Glaze, but I add two coats of Klasse SG, then follow it with a wax based on the color of the paint.
Looks flawless when I'm finished.
Wetsanding is fine for those who've done it before. But it does come with the risk of inconsistent grit in the paper. Unless you're using high grade paper, you stand a chance of chasing wetsand marks throughout the paint.
All in all, it takes me about 6 hours to fully remove orange peel from a standard mid sized car.
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