From what I have read over hundreds of pages of OC on 350z and G35. Drive hard into the 5k-7k rpm range, Engine brake as much as you can, drive in 5th gear for long drives. What really burns oil is a long highway trip with 3k rpm in 5th gear for length of the trip. Keep your revs high and engine brake as much as you can. That should reveal the true OC failure Nissan designed into the REVUP motors. I am sure you will be burning oil once you get the new motor but a new motor is better than a 5 yr old motor even if it consumes oil. You can sell the car with paperwork showing a new motor and it will be worth more to the buyer than a original motor.

 

Did you buy the extended warranty separately or did u buy a G that already had it (paid by the original buyer)?

also, saw ur link about the cheap oem parts, why are you hitting up those websites? certain things not covered in extended warranty?

 

i wouldn't recommend that. if they still refuse a new block (which they have to a TON of people), then he is stuck with one really abused engine that burns oil.

 

I don't want to sell it though, I love my car

Aside from the OC, this car has been fantastic to me. No problems and I am very farmiliar with this platform...maybe I will build the block one day. That should eliminate the problem if I did new pistons, valves, etc correct?

 

Yes, if you do it yourself its all in how you do your ring land.

 

Original owner had the warranty they purchased with the vehicle and at the time of the sale I had them transfer it over along with an infiniti inspection done to the vehicle. I use the advance auto parts for lots of stuff the warranty would not cover like brake pads, rotors, fluids, air filters, cabin filters, specialty tools and all the other crap. Along with my wife's car and other cars that I work on for friends. I use that site a lot along with other vendors that I deal with for my friends auto repair business.


I am not talking about selling your car any time soon. Now that the cars have depreciated down to a pretty low bottom point they will stay in this area and dip down gradually over the next coming years. Many people will want to keep the car as a project forever or 5yrs down the road sell it to upgrade and start over fresh. The more paperwork the better obviously and one stating you have a new engine short block or long block will increase the value of the car.

I only see one option for the VQ motor to built up for boost and that is the package IPP or Dynosty has available. Personally for the funds you would budget for a built long block along with turbo kit you could easily look into engine swaps using other motors that respond better to mods and have increased reliability. I personally think the only 2 motors that interest me is the 2JZ and the LS1. For the budget LS1 will come in at a lower cost due to the increased availability in parts. I am personally hoping in my little heart and mind to get a new long block and in 2013 when warranty expires pull that sucker out along with cd009 tranny and sell the combo. At that time I will be deciding given others experience and new options available in the market to do something to the sedan. I think a G35 sedan with LQ4 + 150 shot / 6-speed swap would be

https://g35driver.com/forums/6021410-post11.html

 

ah ok, makes sense now.
i wonder how much extended warranty would cost.
im still under warranty for some time.

 

How much is the extended I alrdy spent 2k on suspension parts might as well get one

 

I think you have to at least have power-train left on your car. I would call in and double check the specifics, you will need to have a pre purchase inspection done to ensure your car qualifies for extended warranty. All I know is shop around to other dealers since there is lots of markup. When I purchased the extended warranty on my parents camry the platinum no deductible toyota 8yr/100k was running $1000-$1300. I found a dealer in Kansas from internet searches that would sell the same warranty for $850 and no tax since I am out of state. I would expect infiniti warranty to run between $1500-$2000 depending on options/mileage/deductible. They might offer some sort of no interest financing to pay monthly installments for it. You might be able to talk them down to $1100-$1300 if you shop around and get it out of state to save on tax.

 

lol nice!!!

 

 

nice... might confuse some people, should have put intercooler.

 

Plastigage came in today. Ill bring you a pack to Stephens.

 

again... the point

 

the point of?