You need to be more specific james on saying the rear. Any rear camber kit get do that if they have enough thread and that would only be +5 or -5 degrees of camber which you really cant use all of that unless you have toe arms i believe. the spl front v3 is only like +1.5 degrees

 

I'm going off of what is marketed not your fancy pants observations lol

 

keep reaching James. lol

 

They don't offer more adjustment than ichibas?

 

I still have -2.5 camber in the rear and my arm is maxed out..

 

Must not have the toe bolts?

 

Pretty much I got the toe bolts.

 

well then your toe bolts are maxed out which means you cant get anymore positive camber without messing the toe up. i doubt the arms are maxed out before the toebolts get maxed out

 

Would it be a bad thing to extend the toe bolt hole in that situation?

 

^+1.. I've heard of people doing that

 

the problem is that the toebolt hole can only be elongated so much if you use the toebolts because of the slots that the bolts are in. You could replace it with a regular bolt that doesnt have the flange on it but setting the adjustment would be a pain. Best thing to do imo if you wanna stay low will little neg camber possible is to get true coils in the rear with toearms and lockout bolts.

 

That makes sense

 

http://www.splparts.com/chassis-V35.html

Rear Adjustment spec: Camber adjustment range is +/- 10deg from stock arm.
Front Camber adjustment range is -2.5deg to +1deg relative to stock arm;

 

I did his alignment on Saturday, the camber wouldnt go any less than -2.5°. I tried everything. Those camber arms would not go any further.

 

On the rear? Its like a big turnbuckle so it would come apart if the arms got maxed out i thought?