Any local Motul dealers?
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 6
From: Plano, TX
Any local Motul dealers?
I am in a time crunch, and I am looking for Motul fluids locally. I need regular oil, and gear fluid. Anyone know of a local dealer?
EDIT: Specifically, I am looking for 300V 5w30 engine oil, and Gear 300 75w90 gear/diff oil.... If anyone really cares or has any other feedback....
EDIT: Specifically, I am looking for 300V 5w30 engine oil, and Gear 300 75w90 gear/diff oil.... If anyone really cares or has any other feedback....
Last edited by jran76; Mar 28, 2011 at 02:58 PM.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 6
From: Plano, TX
Redline would also work, but I would need 5w30 oil, 75w85 trans fluid, and 75w90 diff fluid.... Lonestar Performance has everything but the trans fluid (which Redline specifically recommends for the G37/370Z).
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 6
From: Plano, TX
Nevermind.... I just went to Lonestar and got the oil, and had them order the rest for me. I'll do the trans and diff next time I do a service....
I ended up going with the Redline.
I ended up going with the Redline.
Just curious Josh - what made you decide to go with Motul 300V as your oil of choice? I'm trying to confirm in the my350 VQ Oil analysis thread but I thought that I remembered one of the Motul oils either not performing well on the VQ or performing equally to another oil that is less than half the price.
yeah motul stuff is good for brakefluid. I like amsoil for my gears. and nothing but penzoil ultra for the engine.
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I honestly don't have any argument for that. I've just been happy with the Mobil 1 and haven't had a reason to switch. I could be convinced to switch. I'm curious what you found. Mobil 1 just has a long history, generally speaking, of success. Cost definitely helps my decision 
I honestly don't have any argument for that. I've just been happy with the Mobil 1 and haven't had a reason to switch. I could be convinced to switch. I'm curious what you found. Mobil 1 just has a long history, generally speaking, of success. Cost definitely helps my decision
found this on the oil anaysis thread about amsoil.
Wow.
That is a crazy bad oil sample. I would not recommend this oil for any future use. I have a 300V 5W-30 virgin sample, so I can confirm the BL tech's comments that the 300V oils use a lot of silicon in their formulation, so your filters are fine. This was your eighth oil change, so wear metals are NOT from break-in. Besides the sheer number of changes to remove break-in metals, the M1 you used has a very good additive package of detergents to make a very effective remover of both wear material and sludge from older oil. The extremely high Al, Fe, and Copper wear is alarming for an oil of this caliber, and even the lead was high compared to the recommended oils on the first page of this thread. I wrote at some length about high Ester base oils not being the best for daily-driven, non-tracked cars in this thread:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...ighlight=motul
And this UOA looks like another example. A good PAO or PAO/ester blend, or even a good G3 with an excellent additive package(AP) is the way to go for most users. The comparison charts on the first page reflect this. Schaeffer's and PP 10W-30 are both "inferior" G3 oils but will outgun this expensive boutique racing oil any day of the week due to the excellent AP they use.
Thanks for posting this and for doing a UOA on the 8100 you used. I look forward to comparing the results. What 8100 weight did you use? The 0W-40 has more PAO/Ester base stock than the others, while the 5W-30 is a G3+ base oil with some PAO and Ester thrown in as additives. It might make a difference. Can't wait to see the results of that one. The TSO has proven to be a great oil, I wouldn't worry at all about it in your VQ- but if you have a UOA done please share.
I'll update the comparison chart with this sample and put my flame suit on. As if the RP fanboys weren't pissed off enough with me about how the 5W-30 compares to the other oils, the Motul guys are really going to give me some grief I'm sure! Remeber, data is just data, so take it for what it's worth and make your own interpretations, but I wouldn't use this oil in my engine.
Will
from my reading so far, motul and royal purple are no bueno in the VQ35 (probably also VQ37 since they are so similar)
the same guy follows up after switching to amsoil and his wear drops almost completely compared to using the motul
Originally Posted by shushikiary
Sorry you didnt get my attachment email! I didnt get your email back either... so I just took a print screen of it and will post it here (it's not pretty, first oil change was at 1500 miles, then one at 3000 both with regular dino oil, then at 6000 with dino, and at 10,000 with synthetic mobil 1 5w30 at 13000, 16000, 19000, and motul at 22,000 miles or so. The oil put in at the change seen below was motul 8100 and is in the mail for a test as I type (changed at 32000 or so with the amsoil TSO 0w30 which is currently in the car with about 3400 miles on it) and all oil changes got a fresh K&N oil filter 1008)
Sorry you didnt get my attachment email! I didnt get your email back either... so I just took a print screen of it and will post it here (it's not pretty, first oil change was at 1500 miles, then one at 3000 both with regular dino oil, then at 6000 with dino, and at 10,000 with synthetic mobil 1 5w30 at 13000, 16000, 19000, and motul at 22,000 miles or so. The oil put in at the change seen below was motul 8100 and is in the mail for a test as I type (changed at 32000 or so with the amsoil TSO 0w30 which is currently in the car with about 3400 miles on it) and all oil changes got a fresh K&N oil filter 1008)
That is a crazy bad oil sample. I would not recommend this oil for any future use. I have a 300V 5W-30 virgin sample, so I can confirm the BL tech's comments that the 300V oils use a lot of silicon in their formulation, so your filters are fine. This was your eighth oil change, so wear metals are NOT from break-in. Besides the sheer number of changes to remove break-in metals, the M1 you used has a very good additive package of detergents to make a very effective remover of both wear material and sludge from older oil. The extremely high Al, Fe, and Copper wear is alarming for an oil of this caliber, and even the lead was high compared to the recommended oils on the first page of this thread. I wrote at some length about high Ester base oils not being the best for daily-driven, non-tracked cars in this thread:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...ighlight=motul
And this UOA looks like another example. A good PAO or PAO/ester blend, or even a good G3 with an excellent additive package(AP) is the way to go for most users. The comparison charts on the first page reflect this. Schaeffer's and PP 10W-30 are both "inferior" G3 oils but will outgun this expensive boutique racing oil any day of the week due to the excellent AP they use.
Thanks for posting this and for doing a UOA on the 8100 you used. I look forward to comparing the results. What 8100 weight did you use? The 0W-40 has more PAO/Ester base stock than the others, while the 5W-30 is a G3+ base oil with some PAO and Ester thrown in as additives. It might make a difference. Can't wait to see the results of that one. The TSO has proven to be a great oil, I wouldn't worry at all about it in your VQ- but if you have a UOA done please share.
I'll update the comparison chart with this sample and put my flame suit on. As if the RP fanboys weren't pissed off enough with me about how the 5W-30 compares to the other oils, the Motul guys are really going to give me some grief I'm sure! Remeber, data is just data, so take it for what it's worth and make your own interpretations, but I wouldn't use this oil in my engine.
Will
the same guy follows up after switching to amsoil and his wear drops almost completely compared to using the motul
Last edited by sexyrob; Mar 30, 2011 at 01:01 PM.
Excellent UOA. I am very impressed with the GTX oil formulation. I still don't like conventional oils for my track days due to low HTHS scores, but for the daily driver who doesn't track the car, I see no reason not to use this oil. It looks good in every UOA done. I honestly think for the majority of drivers, this oil, combined with using either the K&N filter or M1 filter (they're the same filter element) is an excellent combination. Thanks for posting!
Will
Will
