Dragging with 5ATs (THE ULTIMATE THREAD!)
#1
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,165
Likes: 0
From: Kalifornia
Dragging with 5ATs (THE ULTIMATE THREAD!)
So I think the 5AT drivers should have have our own little slice of Drag Racing heaven here on G35Driver. This thread should concentrate on tips, suggestions and technology to improve 60' and 1/4 mile times.
Realizing that tracks vary, let's post up some of our real world experiences.
I am also interested in hearing the results from those that are using AT Valve body upgrades, upgraded torque converters... as well as finding out if anyone is using a trans-brake.
I have a new Griffin Radiator that was custom made for the car and will be available soon those who want one. It is a direct fit to stock 5ATs (sedan and coupe)
I am going to run some tests on the engine temps, as well as tranny temps (it has a tranny cooler like stock). I am very interested in seeing if the larger all aluminum radiator will be sufficient for the harsh conditions at LACR. Depending on what I learn, I may need to look into a secondary tranny cooler. I will keep you posted once I get the data logging system installed and do before and after runs.
Cheers, Ted
Realizing that tracks vary, let's post up some of our real world experiences.
I am also interested in hearing the results from those that are using AT Valve body upgrades, upgraded torque converters... as well as finding out if anyone is using a trans-brake.
I have a new Griffin Radiator that was custom made for the car and will be available soon those who want one. It is a direct fit to stock 5ATs (sedan and coupe)
I am going to run some tests on the engine temps, as well as tranny temps (it has a tranny cooler like stock). I am very interested in seeing if the larger all aluminum radiator will be sufficient for the harsh conditions at LACR. Depending on what I learn, I may need to look into a secondary tranny cooler. I will keep you posted once I get the data logging system installed and do before and after runs.
Cheers, Ted
Last edited by SoCalTed; 02-28-2005 at 03:44 PM.
#2
I ran a whopping 15.1 at LVMS which would be about a 14.5 after you correct for elevation and atmospheric conditions. Only running a Z-tube/K&N drop in and Fuji Exhaust w/ Y pipe at the moment. It'll be interesting to see if there is any improvement after I get my Crawford plenum and cats (if they ever show up!).
#4
1) you have to pull the VDC fuse to be able to launch at an acceptable RPM (about 500 rpm higher than the stock stall)
2) cheap drag slicks on stock or mustang wheels - traction is a big issue - I used some crappy old worn-out slicks my last time to the track and couldn't break a 2.1 60' time... but was still running consistent 13.8's... (sea level, 85+ deg, ~260whp)
3) don't push it when it comes to shift points - in manumatic (or whatever you decide to call it) mode, the biggest mistake you can make is to hit the rev limiter - even when you do it to the slightest, you've just added .2-.3 seconds to your runs - as soon as the needle hits 6k on my car, I'm pushing for the next gear... shifting is the limiting factor on a 5AT, so you have to make sure you don't make it any worse than it already is...
4) if you are serious about lowering your times and don't want to go F/I quite yet, look into the TS "limited spec" reflash - for the money (around $400) you get the things you need (raised revlimiter, 100% throttle body opening) without having to worry about them screwing up your a/f mixture... this will allow you to make it through the 1320 without having to shift right before you trip the finish line... and one less shift can mean dropping your time a couple tenths...
I could probably go on and on about all the things I've tried and played with, but I've kinda given that all up because this car, simply, is NOT made for going in a straight-line... the alignment specs are the first thing that tell you that...
2) cheap drag slicks on stock or mustang wheels - traction is a big issue - I used some crappy old worn-out slicks my last time to the track and couldn't break a 2.1 60' time... but was still running consistent 13.8's... (sea level, 85+ deg, ~260whp)
3) don't push it when it comes to shift points - in manumatic (or whatever you decide to call it) mode, the biggest mistake you can make is to hit the rev limiter - even when you do it to the slightest, you've just added .2-.3 seconds to your runs - as soon as the needle hits 6k on my car, I'm pushing for the next gear... shifting is the limiting factor on a 5AT, so you have to make sure you don't make it any worse than it already is...
4) if you are serious about lowering your times and don't want to go F/I quite yet, look into the TS "limited spec" reflash - for the money (around $400) you get the things you need (raised revlimiter, 100% throttle body opening) without having to worry about them screwing up your a/f mixture... this will allow you to make it through the 1320 without having to shift right before you trip the finish line... and one less shift can mean dropping your time a couple tenths...
I could probably go on and on about all the things I've tried and played with, but I've kinda given that all up because this car, simply, is NOT made for going in a straight-line... the alignment specs are the first thing that tell you that...
#6
#7
Liked the drag piece as a former GN owner and racer at national level.If you have the same trans as we do(FX45),you will not break it!On the slow manual shifting there are fixes that will give you shift on demand(200 off limit).I routinely shift at 7100 and hit it near 6800.I have covered a bunch of 350Z 6sp...they were not happy and it handles with M3's,but I also have done a lot to it.
VDC,I do not recall if G's have a switch(we do ) but the fuse is better?
VDC,I do not recall if G's have a switch(we do ) but the fuse is better?
Last edited by brnjug; 03-19-2005 at 09:20 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
Check out:
http://www.levelten.com/
Hydrosystem™ Valve Body Recalibration Service
PTS™ - Torque Converters
http://www.levelten.com/
Hydrosystem™ Valve Body Recalibration Service
PTS™ - Torque Converters
#9
Ran a 14.669 @ 96.2 mph. (14.29 @ 98.79 mph corrected for 2200ft elevation.)
I guess the Crawford plenum and cats are worth the money I paid for them. I was brake torqueing at about 2000 rpm, but I never did get a real good launch. A little spin off of the line every time. 2.315 60ft time, but I'm still pretty happy about the results.
I guess the Crawford plenum and cats are worth the money I paid for them. I was brake torqueing at about 2000 rpm, but I never did get a real good launch. A little spin off of the line every time. 2.315 60ft time, but I'm still pretty happy about the results.
#10
So I looked for the ABS fuse which is the one to pull for disabling the VDC - right? I can't find it in under the hood. Is there another name for it in some models? Anyone know the rating? I got a 14.2 without pulling it and it seemed as though I had enought traction to not set it off..but what if I lost some traction taking off? Would it have stopped power even after disabling the VDC by pushing the button?
#14
i'm concerned as my best run was 13.7. i would also like to know where the fuse is located. i'm not worried about traction as i have an awd system. all runs were the same i just kept getting better r/t. my best was .065
and i do have the stillen valve body upgrade. i just ordered the torque converter and griffin high capacity radiator, so i'm interested to see how much it will improve my #s. but i was certain i should be running low 13's and not high 13's. i didn't run the sportstronic shifting. all my runs were in regular auto mode. i did do the trans-brake but the most it got up to was about 2500 rpm. so, where is the fuse located? also, does the trans-brake affect the tranny itself? this is my daily driver and the last thing i need is for my trans to go bad on me.
oh, and i did run on the stock rims/tires. would my #s improve by getting larger size tires? i don't seem to have any problems with tractions.
and i do have the stillen valve body upgrade. i just ordered the torque converter and griffin high capacity radiator, so i'm interested to see how much it will improve my #s. but i was certain i should be running low 13's and not high 13's. i didn't run the sportstronic shifting. all my runs were in regular auto mode. i did do the trans-brake but the most it got up to was about 2500 rpm. so, where is the fuse located? also, does the trans-brake affect the tranny itself? this is my daily driver and the last thing i need is for my trans to go bad on me.
oh, and i did run on the stock rims/tires. would my #s improve by getting larger size tires? i don't seem to have any problems with tractions.
#15