The brake fluid replacement and bleed worked for a month or so, but with the recent heat wave in LA, the clutch pedal has begun to stick and feel spongy.

I feel the fluid change and flush is MASKING a bigger issue. I'm looking into performing a rebuild of the Clutch Master and Slave cylinder.

**DIY request** Does anyone have a detailed instructions on perform the rebuilds? (ex. removing the pistons, what's used and how to clean the metal housing, rebuild kit install etc) Thanks in advance.

 

Most people just replace the master and/or slave cylinders. Don't think you will even find a rebuild kit anywhere.

 

Hi LoST, Infiniti does indeed offer rebuild kits for both cylinders. However, I took your advice and purchased new complete OEM Master and Slave Cylinders. Once replaced, I can then inspect and clean the old cylinders. I will then install a the rebuild kits so there're ready for duty when the new ones eventually go out.

 

how much did you pay for the new oem cylinders?

 

Hey Drew, I paid $96.17 for the master and $52.02 for the slave. I purchased them through Discount Infiniti parts. They were OEM Nissan parts.

 

I thought I was immune to this problem until I did a few pulls on the highway during a trip. When I got to town my pedal was sticking. Parked it and it was fine after we came out from the football game. So Im sure and hoping my problem is temp related. Even before i noticed it sticked after a launch, but it has never sticked this much after the runs we did.

 

Thanks for the useful information. I changed the fluid but still have the annoying stuck pedal every now and again. Its the only weak spot in an otherwise strong car.

 

I finally changed my fluid (hopefully all now) but I noticed some deviation from everyone else. I pumped the pedal 30 times and siphoned fluid out two times before it was clear. I came back around 2 hours later and it was dark again. ??? So I did it a third time and came back in the morning to find it ok maybe? So I went to work and come home and it looked the same. I went ahead did it again and took it for a drive. no more color change yet.

 

When I first purchased my 06 6mt sedan I treated it like gold. Didn't drive it hard, it was probably 5-6 months before I started to really push it. I live in the Atlanta area so our spring and summer months are normally really hot, started experiencing half return of my pedal in a typical driving scenario with multiple stop and go conditions. My normal routine was to bleed the system, fill and than repeat about every two weeks, roughly. That got old quickly. I went by a local parts retailer and was looking at brake fluid and came across a fluid that is not silicone based, in a large square can. It stated it was safe for dot 3-4 application. I bleed the system and filled with the product from Bosch and it was night and day, it's been over a year and actually about ten minutes ago my peddle started a half *** no return, but still managed to fully return. I just visually inspected my fluid, and it's time for a good bleed. This fluid works, and i just literally took a chance based on my overall knowledge, and mechanical experience. I have a Chase Bays Teflon core-stainless clutch line that I plan on installing probably in the next couple of hours. The extreme heat that is generated in the immediate area of the plumbing for our clutch is probably the number one cause of the rapid break down of the fluid, and that's why it becomes so dark and opaque so quickly. Chase Bays products seem very promising and I intend to find out, but I'll only be using the Bosch ESI6 brake fluid in my clutch line until I no longer have this car. Hope this helps someone

 

Grab yourself the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL it's online for free on the NiCO page. The rebuilds are easy as pie, I bet if my girl read the fsm she would have no issues rebuilding my cylinders on my sedan

 

The FSM links are down on NICO and have been for a while. And you realize you responded to an almost 5 year old thread right?

 

I went with the willwood master and line combo from CZP.