Sweet. Can't wait to see some pics and hear about the installation.

 

Looks like one of eight bolts from that connects the flywheel to the crankshaft came loose and damaged my clutch and caused non-disengagement. Putting in the new clutch tomorrow, replacing the bolt soon.
FYI. the professional who installed the previous JWT clutch and flywheel DID NOT USE LOCK-TIGHT. If you need a clutch installed or flywheel.. DO IT YOURSELF !! .

IT's okay though, he is going to rebuild my spare transmission for free !

I will post pics tonight!

 

Here are the first few steps before removing the transmission.
i will upload the rest when i get a chance.

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I already removed the bell housing and didn't take much pics, but i will try to do so further...

1.Remove all brackets and wires that is in the way of dropping the tranny

2.Remove the starter motor in the process too

3.Take of all 12 bolts connecting the bell housing to the engine, 2 of these have to be from the engine bay (the top center 2) you may have to move a vacume line, and another bracket holding a wire harness

4.Place Jack to hold up the tranny, then Remove rear Mount holding the rear of the tranny

5. Shake or wiggle tranny back and forth until tranny comes off the engine. then slowly balance and lower the tranny (2 people should do this)

6. Use power tool or socket wrench to remove clutch pressure plate, this should give access to the flywheel. (bolts on outer edge)

7. Remove flywheel if your going to replace it or resurface it, 8 bolts using a torx driver. just wiggle it back and forth horizontally and vertically to remove it.

WHEN INSTALLING FLYWHEEL, USE THE STAR PATTERN TO TIGHTEN IT, USE LOC-TITE, AND USE A TORQUE RATCHET FOR SPECIFIED TORQUE RATING!!!

8. Check rear oil seal, replace seal if needed, apply liquid gasket on the back

9. Place clutch kit on flywheel, using the alignment tool (clutch lines up only one way. Tighten bolts (use torque ratchet at specified rating)

10. Remove throwout bearing from tranny, Use of special tool required for hammering it off and on the piece it's attached to. (RELEASE BEARING SLEEVE)

11.Utilize the correct set up for the pins when reinstalling it. (took a few hours to figure out.. look at it before removing the spring pins.

~Withdraw lever has spring pin securing round edged bolt from inside the tranny

~Round spring pins attached to the bearing sleeve has 2 ends that hook on to the other side of the forks (withdraw lever)

12.Set up jack and insert into clutch/flywheel - this will take several tries to have it in sync

13.Wiggle tranny against engine, Line up bolts and install bolts

14.Attach the starter motor (bolts and wires)

15.Attach all sensors, wires, zipties and clutch engagment thingy back onto the tranny (while on jacks)

16.Install rear member back on tranny and frame, then from the interior reconnect the shift assembly back to normal

17.Install all exhaust back to the way it was (bolts and gaskets)


I FOUND THE G35 SERVICE MANUAL ON 350Z TECH. I can find the link later on if anyone needs it.

Im gonna finish the rest tomorrow.. wish me luck!

 

Thanks! Can't wait to see the rest.

 

finally Finished !

 

Two questions please:

1. 06 G35 Service Manual says the Front Cross Bar needs to be removed in order to pull the transmission to do any clutch work. Does this mean that the car needs a wheel alignment after everything is re-assembled?

2. Has anybody tried doing a clutch/flywheel job in a home garage? ie not using a lift. Has anybody done it with the car simply up on jack stands?

Thanks,
Mike

 

turbonetics-g,

I am about to do clutch/flywheel install myself. Do you mind if I PM you any questions I have? thanks.

 

you guys realize this thread is 5 years old, right? lol

way to bring up some good info tho. I need to drop my tranny to reinstall the factory clutch and flywheel. Previous owner put in a nismo flywheel and a no name clutch before I bought it. Damn flywheel makes my car sound like a cement mixer sometimes....

 

lolz