Replace Clutch G35 Clutch for $2500?!
Replace ('04) G35 Clutch for $2500?!
Need advice please. I purchased an '04 Coupe @ 22 k here in Honolulu and just noticed the clutch slipping at 27k. OK, so the guy I bought it from trashed it. Can't do much about that now. However my Hawaii dealer says the warranty won't cover it and it will cost $2500 to replace. Is this the typical dealer schtick? I'm going to take it to my own mechanic who is competent. Do I use after market parts? Does it make that much of a difference. How much should this really cost to replace? mahalo!
Last edited by Ropate; Jun 2, 2007 at 06:28 PM. Reason: redundancy
The problem is that they want to replace your flywheel at the same time. The oem one is a dual-mass unit and can't be resurfaced. They charge ~$1100 just for that part at the dealer. Go with an aftermarket 1pc flywheel and clutch to save yourself a ton. You will have a little clutch chatter but it will rev faster and reduce the rotational mass = more power.
I went through this when the dealer replaced my tranny a year ago. I was able to talk them into doing the clutch and flywheel install for me at the same time.
I went through this when the dealer replaced my tranny a year ago. I was able to talk them into doing the clutch and flywheel install for me at the same time.
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Mahalo Jonny and ttrank...I've looked at some of the other clutch postings and it seems you can pick up a pretty good aftermarket clutch/flywheel unit between $500-750 so if I add the five bills for labor I should be able to get it done for a reasonable amount...
Aftermarket is a lot better then stock...When you choose a pressure plate don't choose something too aggressive or you won't like the engagement of the clutch. You won't have a nice smooth start...Those clutch require and nice quick launch...You would want to get a nice street version so the engagement is not too harsh for everyday driving...
Relpacing the clutch/flywheel combination on these cars, does come at a cost. For me, it is worth it, but if noise is a major concern, I would not stray from the OEM--but stock is so expensive, I just couldn't help but spend the same amount for a much better setup.
Sometimes it's quiet, sometimes I get some pretty weird noised from the pressure plate, and of course the "cement mix" noise at idle/low rpms from the lightened flywheel.
When you engage the clutch, the noise goes away--I wish I was smarter, but I dunno why this is--maybe someone else can chime in on the actual dynamics involved.
You definetly lose a little refinement when going aftermarket, but you gain a setup that is more durable and "funner" to drive--but that's just me an mo, as I don't mind turning up the stereo if my windows are open.
BTW, I can barely hear any chatter at idle w/ the windows up, but I can hear/feel the "rumble" from 1800-2000 rpm or so, but I learned to adapt my driving style to minimize it.
It's really a trade-off. Ask yourself what you want to do with the car and if you have later plans to mod it more in the future. Hope that helps.
Sometimes it's quiet, sometimes I get some pretty weird noised from the pressure plate, and of course the "cement mix" noise at idle/low rpms from the lightened flywheel.
When you engage the clutch, the noise goes away--I wish I was smarter, but I dunno why this is--maybe someone else can chime in on the actual dynamics involved.
You definetly lose a little refinement when going aftermarket, but you gain a setup that is more durable and "funner" to drive--but that's just me an mo, as I don't mind turning up the stereo if my windows are open.
BTW, I can barely hear any chatter at idle w/ the windows up, but I can hear/feel the "rumble" from 1800-2000 rpm or so, but I learned to adapt my driving style to minimize it.
It's really a trade-off. Ask yourself what you want to do with the car and if you have later plans to mod it more in the future. Hope that helps.
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