DIY: Changing Clutch
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: North Jersey
DIY: Changing Clutch
First let me start off with, I know this is the wrong but i couldn't post in the DIY and I know this is going to be real useful.
1. Secure vehicle with jack stands, I had 2 extra under the control arms for that just in case moment (knock on wood) and a floor jack under the differential
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. Start of by removing you exhaust. I have the OBX true dual so that cut the time off a bit.
4. Remove the brace connecting the two cats, And dont forget the take the clips off for the o2 sensors
5. Remove driveshaft bolts and slide it out, set it aside.
6. Remove all electronic connectors, use a small flat head screwdriver does help. You don’t want to break any of the clips. Make sure you get all of cable management clips and brackets that are clipped on. You don’t want anything attached to the trans.
7. Remove starter bolts and move it out of the way leaving the cabling intact.
8.Remove the clutch master cylinder and move it to the side. Make a habit of putting the bolts back in place to help you remember where they all go.
9. Remove the shifter from inside the car. I couldn't get the **** off so you have to:
1: Remove the shifter surround(its on clips it just pops up)
2: You will see the shifter bushing held down by a bracket with four 12mm bolts, remove that.
3: Once you got the bushing loose you will see a triangle bushing pull the bushing up and you will have three 12mm bolts, remove those.
4: Finally go under the car locate the shifter area and the shifter is held in place by a 12mm bolt remove that bolt and the shifter is out.
10. Start loosening all the bolts to the engine. Im not sure but there should be 10 bolts on the tranny side and 4 bolts on the engine side. Make sure you can get to all of them, they will be tight. There was one bolt on top that required me to remove a small bracket with a breather valve.
11. Once they are loose you can begin positioning the tranny jack, it was it a little tricky to actually tighten the band, its optional and it helps, just try your best. The center of gravity is towards the back of the transmission.
12. Begin removing the crossmember bolts; don’t let the transmission just hang by the input shaft.
13. Remove all the bolts and start pulling the transmission out. Again make sure nothing is attached. Be careful as you start lowering it as it could tilt back and begin dripping oil out the output shaft. Lower the trans all the way and it roll it back.
14. Start removing the bolts on the pressure plate there is 9 of them.
15.Using a t-55 torx bit remove the flywheel. I used the impact wrench.
16. Now there is one small little piece left, the pilot bushing. Most clutch sets include this so you might as well change it.
17. Now go back to the transmission remove the retaining clip and remove the throwout bearing from the input shaft.
18. Use a gear puller to remove the bearing from the sleeve. Now here is the tricky part, I couldn’t figure out how to hold the center section of the puller in place. Find a thick washer that will fit into the center of the sleeve.
19. Wipe off all the grease from the crankshaft to begin installing the pilot bushing. The pilot bushing is soft brass so care must be taken when taping it in. I used a socket and a rubber mallet. Make sure it feels smooth on the inside and that its pushed in straight all the way in.
20. Press the new throwout bearing on to the sleeve. This is crucial, don’t mark up the bearing’s surface and make sure it goes on straight.
21. Install throwout bearing assembly on to the input shaft; use the clip to secure the clutch fork. I put a little grease on the bearing’s face, the clutch fork and just a tiny wipe on the splines and input shaft.
22. If your going to be changing the flywheel you have to torque the bolt to 93 ft lbs and you red loctite. I went with the JWT and there are 2 timing holes. There labeled which one is for the g35 and which one is for the 350z
23. I cleaned the flywheel and pressure plate with some carburetor cleaner and some clean shop rags. You don’t want any type of grease or oil on the flywheel or pressure plate. Make sure it’s clean, put the clutch disk and hold it in place with the alignment tool.
24. Bolt on the pressure plate once again use red loctite on all the bolts; there is a bolt pattern to tighten the bolts see picture below. First tighten all the bolts in the pattern to 11 ft lbs, once you done that re tighten them all to 29 ft lbs (same pattern)
25. Now the fun part, putting the transmission back in. It has to go straight in and you must be careful no to damage the pilot bushing. Twist it and push it in as much as possible, don’t bang it in, be patient.
26. Bolt the crossmember in place and begin tightening all the bolts.
27. Install starter back into its place don't remove the tranny jack yet.
28. Reinstall clutch master cylinder, tighten bolts. Whenever your working with aluminum don’t over tighten, you don’t want to strip the threads.
29. Now it’s just a matter of putting everything back together the way you found it. Once you get you bolts try to put one on each side (top-bottom, and each side) and your safe to remove to the tranny jack
30. Make sure the shifter goes into all the gears before putting the ****/boot. You might need to re-align it.
31. Connect battery
32. Bring the car back down and your ready for a test drive
1. Secure vehicle with jack stands, I had 2 extra under the control arms for that just in case moment (knock on wood) and a floor jack under the differential
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. Start of by removing you exhaust. I have the OBX true dual so that cut the time off a bit.
4. Remove the brace connecting the two cats, And dont forget the take the clips off for the o2 sensors
5. Remove driveshaft bolts and slide it out, set it aside.
6. Remove all electronic connectors, use a small flat head screwdriver does help. You don’t want to break any of the clips. Make sure you get all of cable management clips and brackets that are clipped on. You don’t want anything attached to the trans.
7. Remove starter bolts and move it out of the way leaving the cabling intact.
8.Remove the clutch master cylinder and move it to the side. Make a habit of putting the bolts back in place to help you remember where they all go.
9. Remove the shifter from inside the car. I couldn't get the **** off so you have to:
1: Remove the shifter surround(its on clips it just pops up)
2: You will see the shifter bushing held down by a bracket with four 12mm bolts, remove that.
3: Once you got the bushing loose you will see a triangle bushing pull the bushing up and you will have three 12mm bolts, remove those.
4: Finally go under the car locate the shifter area and the shifter is held in place by a 12mm bolt remove that bolt and the shifter is out.
10. Start loosening all the bolts to the engine. Im not sure but there should be 10 bolts on the tranny side and 4 bolts on the engine side. Make sure you can get to all of them, they will be tight. There was one bolt on top that required me to remove a small bracket with a breather valve.
11. Once they are loose you can begin positioning the tranny jack, it was it a little tricky to actually tighten the band, its optional and it helps, just try your best. The center of gravity is towards the back of the transmission.
12. Begin removing the crossmember bolts; don’t let the transmission just hang by the input shaft.
13. Remove all the bolts and start pulling the transmission out. Again make sure nothing is attached. Be careful as you start lowering it as it could tilt back and begin dripping oil out the output shaft. Lower the trans all the way and it roll it back.
14. Start removing the bolts on the pressure plate there is 9 of them.
15.Using a t-55 torx bit remove the flywheel. I used the impact wrench.
16. Now there is one small little piece left, the pilot bushing. Most clutch sets include this so you might as well change it.
17. Now go back to the transmission remove the retaining clip and remove the throwout bearing from the input shaft.
18. Use a gear puller to remove the bearing from the sleeve. Now here is the tricky part, I couldn’t figure out how to hold the center section of the puller in place. Find a thick washer that will fit into the center of the sleeve.
19. Wipe off all the grease from the crankshaft to begin installing the pilot bushing. The pilot bushing is soft brass so care must be taken when taping it in. I used a socket and a rubber mallet. Make sure it feels smooth on the inside and that its pushed in straight all the way in.
20. Press the new throwout bearing on to the sleeve. This is crucial, don’t mark up the bearing’s surface and make sure it goes on straight.
21. Install throwout bearing assembly on to the input shaft; use the clip to secure the clutch fork. I put a little grease on the bearing’s face, the clutch fork and just a tiny wipe on the splines and input shaft.
22. If your going to be changing the flywheel you have to torque the bolt to 93 ft lbs and you red loctite. I went with the JWT and there are 2 timing holes. There labeled which one is for the g35 and which one is for the 350z
23. I cleaned the flywheel and pressure plate with some carburetor cleaner and some clean shop rags. You don’t want any type of grease or oil on the flywheel or pressure plate. Make sure it’s clean, put the clutch disk and hold it in place with the alignment tool.
24. Bolt on the pressure plate once again use red loctite on all the bolts; there is a bolt pattern to tighten the bolts see picture below. First tighten all the bolts in the pattern to 11 ft lbs, once you done that re tighten them all to 29 ft lbs (same pattern)
25. Now the fun part, putting the transmission back in. It has to go straight in and you must be careful no to damage the pilot bushing. Twist it and push it in as much as possible, don’t bang it in, be patient.
26. Bolt the crossmember in place and begin tightening all the bolts.
27. Install starter back into its place don't remove the tranny jack yet.
28. Reinstall clutch master cylinder, tighten bolts. Whenever your working with aluminum don’t over tighten, you don’t want to strip the threads.
29. Now it’s just a matter of putting everything back together the way you found it. Once you get you bolts try to put one on each side (top-bottom, and each side) and your safe to remove to the tranny jack
30. Make sure the shifter goes into all the gears before putting the ****/boot. You might need to re-align it.
31. Connect battery
32. Bring the car back down and your ready for a test drive
Last edited by lookthatsme; Jan 10, 2008 at 08:41 PM.
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: North Jersey
Originally Posted by 6spG
Nice write-up, got any pics?
Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Great write up! I just did mine and your instructions are really close to the letter in the Haynes manual. I have one problem that I hope you can help me with. I broke a connector on some kind of sensor and I don't know what it is so I can replace it. It is located on the passenger side of the tranny and screws into the body. My car runs great, but my "Check Engine Soon" warning stays on, and I think it may be because of that sensor not being connected. I at first thought the sensor was for the back up lights, but the lights works fine. Do you know what that sensor is? Thank you in advance!
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