Drivetrain Questions and info regarding transmissions, clutches, etc.

Shift Fork Pivot bolt....$12 bolt=$1300 clutch...

Old Jun 19, 2009 | 11:16 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BlueDevilBAMF
Haha my dad taught me the same thing as a general rule of thumb with manuals.

Interesting to learn it's really only direct-linkage that it could really hurt.
This will cause wear, your Dad(s) are right.

However the bolt snaps due to premature fatigue, it should be a standard replacement when you have your clutch done and have the trans out and also replace the slave cyl for another $30. On mine it was clear the metal grain was messed up. NISMO makes upgrades for this bolt on S-cars, older Skylines, but I have never been able to find one for Z/G's.

I'd search however, I think someone on this forum or my350z gave me a link to a stronger bolt that cost something like $40, about same as NISMO.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 11:48 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
that is an internal defect that would have been covered under warranty. if you paid for the fix yourself then you let Infinti off the hook. powertrain warranty is 6 years/70k miles, so you definitely would have been covered.

my tranny assembly & clutch were replaced under warranty due to an internal defect. i was not about to fork out the cash myself.
I called Infiniti and gave them my VIN, I was still under the warranty timeframe/milage u say, but they claim that since it is not an internal part of the powertrain, rather one that sticks outta the tranny or something, that it is not covered.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 07:38 PM
  #33  
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Same here, it was not covered, and not because I had an AM clutch, either. I was out of bumper to bumper on time but not powertrain, otherwise may have been able to get it done.

I vaguely recall either canucklehead or someone else having their clutched deep-sixed due to their transmission going fubar, but I've never heard of anyone getting their clutch replaced under warranty even if they only got 21k on it, "It's a wear item".

Btw the clutch slave is also external and a wear item, but thankfully only cost about $30 and 30 minutes for me to install it.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 05:15 PM
  #34  
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same here.....
03 coupe
68k....
this car is the best and worst car i have ever bought....
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 05:37 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by cdubel01
Ummm, it is not incredibly loud or anything, just when the car is sitting in neutral and u get out of the car, there is a small noise that u can hear from the clutch chattering or something...it isn't that bad, but makes u kinda wonder wtf is goin on when u first hear it. Do a search on the internet about it and u should find some stuff...great clutch though...
Ya, I get some chatter at idle and when I begin accelerating using low RPMs. I did notice the freed up power from the lighter flywheel, so that was nice. Overall, I'd take the slightly louder clutch for better grip, more power, and about half the price of an OEM clutch/flywheel setup.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 05:40 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by g35hart
same here.....
03 coupe
68k....
this car is the best and worst car i have ever bought....
LOL... that kind of sums it up. When I'm on an open back road, I love it and when it's in the shop, I can't stand it.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 06:29 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by g35hart
same here.....
03 coupe
68k....
this car is the best and worst car i have ever bought....
Maybe 2nd or 3rd worst But the day that bolt broke not too long after my trans had already been pulled out for the clutch, I would have agreed wholeheartedly. I don't think I've dropped that many F-bombs in such a short period of time ever, or since.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 11:29 AM
  #38  
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how did you guys get the bolt out? This just happen to my car too. Pulled the tranny out but trying to find someone to get the broken bolt out.

Not sure if it's possible to drill it out and use easy out.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 12:13 PM
  #39  
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I took it to a shop and they did all the work, so idk.... good luck...Infiniti should do something about this...what was ur mileage KapVu
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 12:34 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Jeeves
LOL...dude, i just had to replace the SAME damn thing.

My clutch was replaced at 35,000 miles...and the shift fork pivot bolt just went at 55,000 miles.

$12 bolt but $1000+ in labour to replace...

Anyone know of a more sturdy/stronger pivot bolt?
you can pick one up from CZP.

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...3153.48.52.241
 
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 02:53 PM
  #41  
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I have an 2003 6mt coupe, ~45,000 mileage.

I pulled my tranny out already and bought a new bearing house cover from infiniti. I'm just going to replace the whole cover instead of trusting a shop to remove it.

Upgrading to JWT clutch/flywheel combo, my clutch and flywheel are fine. I don't really drive very hard but only drive the car very short distances (5-10 miles). I'm not sure how it broke.

After you guys fixed this problem, did it occur again? Did you break the pivot ball again?
 

Last edited by KapVu; Apr 15, 2010 at 03:02 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 04:01 PM
  #42  
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I got the JWT light weight clutch and flywheel also! sounds like a cement truck at idle, but good stuff...Mine hasn't broke again yet...
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 10:52 AM
  #43  
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ok everyone look....the weak carbon/metal type material the OEM pivotball is breaks easily if driven harshly. It happens whether you have stock or aftermarket clutch/flywheel/pressureplate. primarily in how the car is driven will determine when the pivotball will snap. importpartspro is one place i know they have the reinforced pivotball for our cars. If you haven't changed the transmission to an updated model in your 03 G35 (ex. CD009) then you are more susceptable to snapping the pivotball because it's longer for the thinner, lighter, clutch arm. All other years and transmission have the heavier, thicker, clutch arm and shorter pivotball. Although the material of the pivotball stays the same. Aftermarket is the only way to get a stronger steel pivotball. Another thing....if you are changing out your clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate then make sure you change out your pilot bearing, throwout bearing, pivotball, flywheel bolts, and clutchline. Thats all for reliability and piece of mind and also changing out the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder prevents future problems as well. All of that stuff isn't that expensive although the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate are very expensive.

You can relate it to getting a turbo put on your car without any reliability modifications to go with it creating problem after problem down the road.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #44  
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Transmission Pivot ball pin

Hi there,

I am in the same situation...I have 2004 G35 coupe and the clutch pivot ball for the tranny is broken . The weird thing is the broken pin that came off my car is the long one. But according to you, I should have the short pin. Also, when they look up the part by my VIN number, the short one came up. So I am confused as to which pivot ball screw is for my tranny..How can you tell whether the long one or the short one is my tranny. Please help, my car is still in the shop.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by WINTERDEVILG35
ok everyone look....the weak carbon/metal type material the OEM pivotball is breaks easily if driven harshly. It happens whether you have stock or aftermarket clutch/flywheel/pressureplate. primarily in how the car is driven will determine when the pivotball will snap. importpartspro is one place i know they have the reinforced pivotball for our cars. If you haven't changed the transmission to an updated model in your 03 G35 (ex. CD009) then you are more susceptable to snapping the pivotball because it's longer for the thinner, lighter, clutch arm. All other years and transmission have the heavier, thicker, clutch arm and shorter pivotball. Although the material of the pivotball stays the same. Aftermarket is the only way to get a stronger steel pivotball. Another thing....if you are changing out your clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate then make sure you change out your pilot bearing, throwout bearing, pivotball, flywheel bolts, and clutchline. Thats all for reliability and piece of mind and also changing out the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder prevents future problems as well. All of that stuff isn't that expensive although the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate are very expensive.

You can relate it to getting a turbo put on your car without any reliability modifications to go with it creating problem after problem down the road.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 12:43 AM
  #45  
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I put in a chromoly clutch pivot ball to avoid this exact problem. I have heard with aftermarket clutches it will break compared to an OEM.
 
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