It seems that there have been a number questions and issues relative to the stock clutch assemblies. A great deal of this is relative to simple use and subsequent wear...of course, as these cars get older and more owners modify them there will be an increasing need for performance oriented clutch assemblies.

I know that I am the new guy on this forum but I wanted to provide you all with some info relative to clutch installation and the differences that exist between the stock and aftermarket clutch and flywheels assemblies. What follows is a brief write up and pictures from the recent installation of our SN35SST Super-Twin clutch kit into my 2005 G35 Sedan.

This is the first of what I hope will be many tech posts relative to the modification of my G35. Please feel free to ask any questions that you may have and I will do my best to provide all the info you need. (Note: Please refer to the MT.pdf section of the online Factory Manual for further instructions and specifics not covered in this installation guide).

I am starting the pictured/detailed portion of this write-up from under the car. There are a few steps that precede this and I wanted to make sure you have them for reference. It is important to note that having the Factory Manual makes this installation much easier. If you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable with doing a job of this type I suggest taking the car to a qualified mechanic.

Preceding Steps (that are not pictured)
1) Disconnect the positive battery cable
2) Remove the shifter boot/console assembly.
3) Use a monkey wrench and a rag (wrapped around the base of the shift ****) by turning the **** counter clockwise. **we actually didn’t remove the **** from the shifter as it is not required but doing so makes it easier to see the bolts that are found below (see steps 4 and 5).
4) Remove the 4 bolts that hold the rubber hole-cover in place.
5) Remove the 3 bolts that hold the Guide plate in place.

Now you will need to get under the car and drain the transmission fluid (Picture 1 below) and remove the exhaust and drive-shaft. (Please reference the ex.pdf section of the online Factory Manual for information relative to the removal of the exhaust.) The exhaust has two sets of hangers (I found it easier to unbolt the hanger-brackets from the car than to try to pry the hanger off of the rubber insulators connected to the brackets). (Please reference the pr.pdf section of the online Factory Manual for information relative to the removal of the driveshaft.) The front of the Drive-shaft slips into to the tail of the transmission and is supported by a rubber dampener and drive-shaft loop that is located near the rear differential. Remove the 2 bolts located on the carrier bearing, the 4 bolts securing the drive-shaft loop to the chassis, and the 4 bolts that secure the drive-shaft to the rear differential.

6) Remove the bolt that secures the shift lever to the control rod (The control rod allows for gear selection).***sorry I didn’t get a picture of this***
7) Remove the Transmission Brace (This brace houses the transmission mount.) by removing the 4 bolts that connect it to the chassis and the two bolts that connect it to the transmission mount. (Picture 2 and 3 below)
8) Unplug the O2 sensors.
9) Remove the catalytic converters. (This is done to ease access to the electrical connections on the transmission). (Picture 4 below)
10) Disconnect the electrical connections (Neutral Position Sensor, Back-Up Lamp Switch, and Crank Position Sensor) and move the harness out of the way.
11) Unbolt the Slave Cylinder.
12) Remove the Transmission from the car. (It is best to use a Transmission Jack to assist with removal) (Picture 5 below)

***To be continued in my next post with more pictures and applicable steps.***

 

13) Unbolt the stock pressure-plate from the stock flywheel. (Picture 1 below)
14) Unbolt the flywheel from the crank. (Picture 2 below)
15) Use a bearing puller to remove the pilot bearing.
16) Install the new pilot bearing. Be sure to grease the bearing appropriately. (Picture 3 below)
17) Remove the Bearing Collar and press the original bearing off.
18) Press the new bearing that we provide on the collar and reinstall the Bearing Collar. (Picture 4 below)
19) Grease the input-shaft thoroughly and then use a rag to clean any excess grease from the shaft. (If the shaft is over-greased the clutch can become contaminated as the excess grease slings off during use).

***To be continued in my next post with more pictures and applicable steps.***

 

20) Bolt in the new flywheel (Use the factory torque specification and be sure to use the included washers when installing a Super-Twin).
21) Place the clutch assembly on a clean-flat surface and insert the alignment tool into the disc hub.
22) Use the flywheel dowel-pins to locate the clutch assembly (For our Super-Twin applications there will be a witness mark that indicates the correct orientation of the plate in reference to the flywheel…this is done for balancing purposes).
23) Bolt the clutch assembly onto the flywheel. Single disc applications use OE Torque Specs. Super-Twin applications use supplied torque specs.

From this point forward you will reverse steps 1-13.

You may need to adjust your clutch pedal to insure that there is enough pedal travel to completely release the clutch. A full explanation of this process can be found in the CL.pdf section of the online Factory Manual.

 

As a point of reference...the guy in the pictures is Danny Smith (who is our resident wrench head and Honda Fanatic). Danny also manages events for us so if you are ever at a show or race and we are there...you are certain to see him.

 

Nice a mod should move this to the DIY

 

ditto

 

Yeah...I guess I should have named it "Clutch Install DIY" and posted it there...I am new, sorry about this miss-location. Can a moderator move this over? If so, thanks in advance!