Originally Posted by wnbrown

I've been fussing with this for years, and if I had it to do over again, I would go straight to the two-inch cooling tube to the slave cylinder, then if I still had the problem, I'd also reroute the clutch line. I did it backwards, and would do it differently now based on what I discovered. I used the original hard and flex lines when I rerouted, I didn't change the length.
I spent a lot of time under the car exploring options. I thought about buying a longer hard hydraulic line and radically rerouting it, but opted not. The only way I could see to route a hydraulic line far from the cat meant drilling holes through the frame rail or routing the line under the frame rail. You don't want fuel or hydraulic lines underneath and unprotected by the frame rails. (You only need a short piece of flex hydraulic line between the chassis and slave to allow for engine/tranny movement relative to the chassis under acceleration.)
I'll try and take a couple of pics in the next week. Consider my solution a prototype that works. I would do it slightly differently again. Materials might be tricky to find locally, I suggest pegasusautoracing.com, they have a wide selection of insulators and tubing. You might try their two-inch red/orange silicone. It's rated at 500 degrees. Cats routinely hit 900 degrees, but it might be OK if it's away from the cats (difficult) and insulated. Perhaps my use of metal flex exhaust tubing near the cats wasn't such a bad idea. The only reason I insulated the metal tube was to reduce heat absorption from the cats into the air flowing through the tubing.
Hope this helps, and good luck.