Ok first off, yes i am a noob to driver but il try my best to keep up and not be annoying....now the problem...

i DID search... i found alot of people saying how the clutch pedal would be stuck to the floor...

my problem is that i do completly disengage the clutch pedal....but the clutch isnt disengaged. WTF! it wasnt bad at first it would disengage at around 3k so i would rev pretty high to even get rolling, within 10 mins i was almost redlineing to get my car to move from a traffic light. i was trying to get to the dealer but i didnt make it. car turned off, got a buddy to get his AAA to tow it to the dealer. i have 72k on the car, i just bought it a few weeks ago, i have extended warranty till 100k though. so they said if its just my clutch and to replace all parts its 1,400 cause its not covered in warranty. WTF !!! i don't even know whats wrong with it. they said if its the input shaft then everything will be replaced for free...

so my question is... which of the 2 is it? my input shaft? or just my clutch?

 

sounds like its your clutch

 

what part of my clutch assembly gave out?

 

I couldnt tell you. haha sorry

 

It's just your clutch. Your clutch disk is done.

They'll replace your disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing. It's not a warranty item, it's a maintenance item. With 72k miles there's nothing out of the ordinary about it wearing out at that point which further emphasizes not being under warranty umbrella.

Your input shaft should definitely not be the problem...if that was the case the input shaft teeth would have shorn off from the disk, and the shaft is part of your transmission. The likelihood of that happening are slim to none on a stock car with a 72k mile clutch.

I would request they turn the flywheel while they are in there. If you tried to drive it with the clutch roasted, you probably scored it pretty good.

 

yea i talked to a few of my grease monkey friends they were telling me about how its very slim chance of it being my input shaft and with my clutch was on its last threads anyway...

but thats ridiculous for a stock clutch. 1400?

 

Could be your clutch master cylinder. Try bleeding it.

 

If it was a master/slave cylinder problem with air in the lines, the lack of hydraulic pressure would make the clutch pedal either feel sticky or it would completely stick to the floor and not come back up. Doesn't sound like that's his problem.

Is the 1400 you were quoted parts + labor? If so, I can believe that. If that's just the parts then that's pretty outrageous.

 

yea its parts plus labor at the dealership. but yea im not expecting my extended warranty to cover this anymore. i didnt think it was solely the clutch's fault, i thought it was a few other things so it would be covered but i guess 1400 it is.

 

ok now its $3100

 

whoooooaaaaa, what?

 

so they just boosted it up from 1400 to 3100?

haha I would tell them to kiss my ***, and then get the jwt clutch/flywheel combo and go to an independent shop

 

It's your clutch, it's probably gone.

Forget paying the stealership $1400 for OEM ish. Buy the JWT Clutch/Flywheel combo.

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...on.php?II=2357

 

Since it's not under warranty, take it to a nissan dealership. They'll probably get you the parts cheaper and their labor should definitely be cheaper. It shouldn't be any different than them replacing the clutch on a 350z.

 

yea i have a hookup at the nissan dealership is giving me 35% off on flywheel, crankshaft, clutch, and throw bearing. all the parts total from infiniti is 2075ish. im buying all the parts then giving it to infiniti to install. im paying 1100 for parts then 966 for labor at infiniti (138 per hour). so i save 1000, its the best thing i could do. if i take my car out of the dealership its 600 because they did a diagnostics check to see what the problem was... even if i do that the total will be only a 100 less so might as well keep it there now.

infiniti was ripping me off so bad... i dont know why thier labor is so expensive...