Clutch Arm Modification?
#1
Clutch Arm Modification?
I have longer legs than normal I guess, and although the gas and brake pedals seem fine, the clutch arm/pedal extends farther back than I would like. I would also like a clutch with a shorter travel but would be happy just having it moved foward a bit.
Are there any mods that can be done to shorten the stock clutch arm to achieve this? If not, what are my options on an aftermarket arm/pedal?
Thanks
--
Copbait
'04 6MT Loaded, black chrome wheels *PICS*
Are there any mods that can be done to shorten the stock clutch arm to achieve this? If not, what are my options on an aftermarket arm/pedal?
Thanks
--
Copbait
'04 6MT Loaded, black chrome wheels *PICS*
#2
Re: Clutch Arm Modification?
an old fashion *search* got me these.
link1
link2
and these guys point towards the link
link3
In that huge *** freshalloy thread, look for this, and I quote from SuperG
"I don't agree the factory setting is the best for everyone since for many people it makes the car difficult to drive. As long as the clutch travel allows for full disengagement and proper free play I see no problem with shortening it.
It is possible to adjust the clutch pedal to too low a position, so here's something to check.
After this adjustment, you should make sure that with the clutch pedal depressed the pressure plate and clutch disk are making NO contact (the engine is fully disengaged from the transmission).
The problem is how to determine that there is no contact. Earlier in this thread I see people checking for the clutch pedal position where the car moves or the engine bogs down and then backing off a bit. I think these things happen long after the contact has been made. A better way to determine the engagement point is to put the car in neutral and see at which point the clutch disk/input shaft moves. In neutral with the clutch pedal depressed this shaft is free to rotate, so the slightest contact between the clutch and pressure plate will cause it to move.
How to tell when it moves? With the brakes on, engine running and clutch in, you can notice that the first time you shift into a gear (1st is the best for this) you can feel the slight crunchy resistance as the gears line up. I you shift back to neutral and back into the same gear, the gears are already lined up so it feels much lighter and smoother going into gear. But go to neutral, let the clutch out to spin the gears, and the next time you shift into that gear you feel the resistance as the gears line up again. So if it feels light and smooth as you shift in and out of the same gear, you know the input shaft and clutch disk haven't moved.
So press the clutch in and shift into gear then back to neutral. Let the clutch up a slight amount (say 1 inch or so) and push it back down. Now shift back into that same gear. If smooth, no clutch engagement took place. If crunchy, that 1 inch of pedal travel caused engagement. Repeat this letting the clutch up different amounts to get a feel for the exact point of engagement. Make sure that this engagement point is above the position you normally press the pedal down to when shifting."
I did this "test", and realized to make sure I'm not rubbing the clutch when I press down all the way, I can only lower the clutch pedal very slightly.. so i said screw it, I don't mind the current height.
---
2004 TB/W 6mtC. Sunroof only.
Bel Vector 985
Grounding Kit
Splash Guards
Custom Carputer
Custom FG Sub
Infinity KapPerf6.1, Ref 6002si, 5760 6-ch AMP.
30% Huper<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by wizawuza on 10/21/04 12:07 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
link1
link2
and these guys point towards the link
link3
In that huge *** freshalloy thread, look for this, and I quote from SuperG
"I don't agree the factory setting is the best for everyone since for many people it makes the car difficult to drive. As long as the clutch travel allows for full disengagement and proper free play I see no problem with shortening it.
It is possible to adjust the clutch pedal to too low a position, so here's something to check.
After this adjustment, you should make sure that with the clutch pedal depressed the pressure plate and clutch disk are making NO contact (the engine is fully disengaged from the transmission).
The problem is how to determine that there is no contact. Earlier in this thread I see people checking for the clutch pedal position where the car moves or the engine bogs down and then backing off a bit. I think these things happen long after the contact has been made. A better way to determine the engagement point is to put the car in neutral and see at which point the clutch disk/input shaft moves. In neutral with the clutch pedal depressed this shaft is free to rotate, so the slightest contact between the clutch and pressure plate will cause it to move.
How to tell when it moves? With the brakes on, engine running and clutch in, you can notice that the first time you shift into a gear (1st is the best for this) you can feel the slight crunchy resistance as the gears line up. I you shift back to neutral and back into the same gear, the gears are already lined up so it feels much lighter and smoother going into gear. But go to neutral, let the clutch out to spin the gears, and the next time you shift into that gear you feel the resistance as the gears line up again. So if it feels light and smooth as you shift in and out of the same gear, you know the input shaft and clutch disk haven't moved.
So press the clutch in and shift into gear then back to neutral. Let the clutch up a slight amount (say 1 inch or so) and push it back down. Now shift back into that same gear. If smooth, no clutch engagement took place. If crunchy, that 1 inch of pedal travel caused engagement. Repeat this letting the clutch up different amounts to get a feel for the exact point of engagement. Make sure that this engagement point is above the position you normally press the pedal down to when shifting."
I did this "test", and realized to make sure I'm not rubbing the clutch when I press down all the way, I can only lower the clutch pedal very slightly.. so i said screw it, I don't mind the current height.
---
2004 TB/W 6mtC. Sunroof only.
Bel Vector 985
Grounding Kit
Splash Guards
Custom Carputer
Custom FG Sub
Infinity KapPerf6.1, Ref 6002si, 5760 6-ch AMP.
30% Huper<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by wizawuza on 10/21/04 12:07 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
#3
Re: Clutch Arm Modification?
Just did this mod, and it really makes the car drivable now. I only have 200 miles on her and was not going to put another 200 on until I fixed the clutch, it was that bad. If you have not done this yet DO IT NOW, only takes about half an hour total incluing adjustments.
--
Copbait
'04 6MT Loaded, black chrome wheels *PICS*
--
Copbait
'04 6MT Loaded, black chrome wheels *PICS*
#4
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