I don't notice any difference between 4th 5th and 6th compared to 1st 2nd and 3rd.
When the transmission is cold, I find it a bit hard to engage 1st until stopped, even if only moving slowly engaging 1st is hard. all is ok when it has warmed up.

I think I would still replace the fluid if I were you.. someone may have put GL5 fluid in, which is for the differential only... it will mess with your synchros and cause difficult shifting.

Manual transmission fluid isn't expensive and you don't need much.. it's also quick an easy to change if you have a hoist.

 

This thread has lasted entirely too long and the amount of replies with all randoms crap flushed in with decent advice. I am sure all the automatic folks will now stop giving you advice or feedback.

First and foremost OP fault for not being clear but if you read he said SHIFT into 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Most time when guys talk about shifting it is a manual unless you are talking about that girly clicker shifter craptastic switch nissan likes to call manumatic.

The nissan transmission is a chunky, heavy, notchy and direct linkage transmission. The 6mt is probably the trickiest you have driven compared to other manual vehicles. You can remove the clutch delay spring on the pedal to help with driving. You might also be getting resistance from your synchro due to wear. The 2005 model is when cd009 was introduced which has triple cone 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear syncro, 3rd gear baulk ring,5th gear baulk ring, and 5th gear.

Secondly stick with OEM nissan MTF (MANUAL TRANSMISSION FLUID). I do not have the chart handy but pretty much do 3 drain and fill and you should have a pretty good amount of new fluid over time.

You will need 10mm allen hex key to open the drain plug and fill plug. Crack open the fill plug first and then open the drain plug. If I am not mistaken you will need 4 bottles for each drain and fill

While you have the vehicle up on all 4 jack stand I would go ahead and change the diff fluid with mobil 1 75w90

Now what is the benefit of all this and the point of this long thread/reply. The fluid change will not fix all the issues with the older transmission and do not expect it to make your transmission feel like butter and extremely easy to toss into gear. The fluid will help with cleaning up the chunkyness and notchiness in the transmission but you will still feel resistance when you put it in first, second and third. The cost of 3 fluid changes is nothing compared to a cd009 with install and clutch/flywheel. I would personally do 2 fluid changes over the course of 6 months and see the benefits of it.

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ange-pics.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/drivetr...t-rebuild.html

 

I want cookies

 

 

i recommend using the fluid pump that attaches to the bottle. that **** if freaking amazing to use and helps alot.

 

I partially agree with what faiz23 said. A fluid change is unlikely to make things better if the correct oil is currently used. However, I have known people to use the incorrect fluid, or use a GL4/5 fluid and it has caused difficult shifting, and swapping out the fluid with a GL4 fluid of the correct weight fixed the issues.

Also, every gear has a baulk ring.. on the CD009 1st, 2nd and 3rd use a triple cone synchroniser, 4th uses as dual cone, and a single cone on other gears.
Baulk rings have a different function than a synchro cone so both are required..

There is also not much need to do more than one drain/refill. Unlike Auto transmissions, all the oil is drained when you pull the drain plug on the 6MT. If you think it is particularly dirty, you could do a 2nd change to flush out any gunge left.

The hand pump for the fluid is recommended.. I did mine without one and it was rather awkward.

 

This WTF.

OP: 3rd gear 'crunch' is fairly common on this car. If you're having issues in all gears then you have something else going on. How is going into reverse?

4 most likely causes for gear issues IMO:

Throwout Bearing/Pilot bushing/Clutch issues - Any noises when idling on or off the clutch? Any noises when using the clutch?

Worn/mis-alligned Shifter linkage/shift rails

Low/High or excessively worn out fluid.

Physical internal transmission damage/excessive wear.

Withtout knowing the service history, or even the Mileage of the car, I'd assume that those are listed in the most likely order. Post the mileage/history though.

 

i am actually somewhat on the same boat. Coming from 1st to 2nd to 3rd its not super smooth like some cars. i asked my friend who has had his G for years basically when it only had 1k miles and he said its normal as well? seems a little weird lol but i am do for a clutch replacement maybe in about 15-20k from now. I bought the car 2 months ago and plan to change my 6MT fluid eventually only because i dont know when the previous owner did it so we'll see if it gets any better

 

2003.5 5AT - drained my pan and 4.75 quarts came out instead of the 3.5 like in the DIY video... So I just refilled with almost 5 quarts and skipped the flush from the radiator return line step - ok to do this?

 

Should be fine. Mine has always been 3.5 qts, until this last time about 4.25 qts came out. No problems, and that was 2k miles ago.
I never do the return line, I just drain and fill every 10k miles.

 

You change your ATF every 10k miles?

That's cra!!! Not a bad thing, but seems a little excessive, what's the thought there?

 

I figure if you flush every 30k, a drain and fill every 10k is about the same amount of fluid Exchange.

 

ahhh makes sense, can't get all the fluid out from draining an Auto, gotcha. Good thinking

 

Flushing seems like it could cause more harm than good, drain and fill is always the way to go if you're not having issues with your transmission in my opinion.

 

What's up guys. I have an 05 6MT. For a while now, my gearbox has been very sticky. It desn't feel lubricated at all. I feel like every time I shift gears, I am forcing the shifter into its next position. It just isn't right. I've decided to get my transmission fluid changed hoping that will fix my problem. Should I get the stock tranny fluid that comes in our cars or is there a better one that I could use to fix my problem? Thanks