I have 04 5at coupe the car use to have strong get up.....now im a aggressive driver i usually do 80 on the freeway but sometime ill floor it at 80 and it would take off i mean whip lash send u back to your seat....i notice it dont do it no more its like it slowly pick up on speed im tellin u it usually give u whip lash if stomp the peddle 80mph already but idk...i cleaned my throttle body and yes i unplugged the battery wben doing so..just tryna figure out why i lose the get up ...so far all the work i done on this car...white line diff bushing,radiator fan , valve covers, rear and front wheel hubs,spark plugs just wanna know why this lost of get up

 

Did you recalibrate the throttle body closed position when you reinstalled it? Doesn't matter that you unplugged the battery it still needs recalibration.

 

ima do the ecu reset ill let u know how it go

 

The ECU reset just sets the long term fuel trim back to zero, that is NOT the throttle body recalibration.

Check the FSM in section EC - Engine Controls under "basic service procedures" at the front of the book. I would do throttle valve closed position, idle air volume, then the ECM reset.

 

i thought thats how u do it ....it was more that one procedures' that came with the reset peddle relearn and etc

 

i did all that still got no ****** when u floor it

 

i did it from this https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/g3...-learning.html

 

Ok if you did all 4 of those resets as listed on the NICO page, and they actually WORKED and the lights flashed properly, but you're still having issues then it's time to dig a little deeper.

I would start with a realtime data OBD2 scan to check ignition timing, cam advance.

And pull the spark plugs, if they have more than 50k miles on them they probably need to be replaced with new NGK PLFR5A-11. Do a drain and fill on the transmission if it's due (you are changing your transmission fluid on schedule yes?).

Either it's an engine torque/hp problem or it's a transmission problem, neglecting maintenance on the transmission is a good way to kill it especially if it's being run hard.

A video of you doing a pull on the highway would be helpful to see if it's actually lost acceleration.

 

to be honest with you I don't think this transmission fluid been changed and the car got high milage im talking 190,000 but been service and previous owner gave all the receipts but not a receipts had transmission fluid changes I heard it's bad to change the transmission fluid I heard as soon as you do that if you haven't been doing the regular maintenance on the transmission fluid your transmission will start slipping that's what I heard from like 9 out of 10 of my mechanics

 

I change the spark plugs about twenty thousand miles ago but I just did the valve covers the 3/3/2020 it might be the coil packs im not shure but I've been getting my car worked on my guy named Charlie he has a YouTube channel Full Throttle so imma just take the engine L get a compression check either way I feel like a bunch of people going to be talking s*** about the mileage but the car being reliable and I have not had to fix nothin real major on it

 

I'm sorry but those 9 of 10 mechanics you talked to about transmission fluid swaps don't know what the hell they're talking about. It's a myth, just like "once you switch to synthetic oil you can't switch back to conventional because it bonds to the metal of the engine" or any other bullshit rumors.

Let me dig up a post I wrote a long while back about transmission fluid changes. If the maintenance on the transmission has been ignored for almost 200k miles I'm not surprised it's experiencing early failure (if that is the problem).

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ml#post7123536

Hopefully it's NOT the transmission though simply because they're not cheap.

 

I appreciate your help and response I'm a little further into it I'm looking for a stick though
I read your post it was very informational but when you buy a car from someone you don't know if people do transmission flushes that some people don't even do on a normal and you're right about that but you just said basically admitted that if you do put new fluid in it it was still f*** your car up on that post I just read or maybe I'm comprehending it wrong but that's what I'm reading and getting so far on what you just sent me when I bought the car it was at 170k they did a regular oil changes air filter they had a lot of receipts to a lot of things but none of them receipts was for a transmission fuild change or flush or anything but the whole point of i was getting at is you can't expect people to do that stuff like that when you go buy a vehicle when I bought the vehicle I started it I left the idle for over an hour it didn't overheat I took it on the freeway run the s *** out it drove it hard and it drive good and no check engine light still ain't .11pqqcame on since I had the car and I do take it to the shop everppmonth to go get it plugged in just to see if there's any hidden codes and nothing still never pop up but this just a problem I just noticed on
my car that just occurred and if I can't fix it I'm thinking about getting rid of this one and going to go get a 6mt

 

I definitely prefer the 6MT, some people don't have much of a choice because they need AWD and that's only available mated to the 5AT.

As for the fluid changes, Dextron I and early Dextron II transmissions were the only ones that were ever a problem, anything built from about 1980 to 1990 wasn't really a problem because they had corrected a lot of the mechanical deficiencies in the transmissions. On OLD transmissions it's usually best to pull the tranny, drain the TQ, refilter, refill, reinstall, top it off. Get everything out in one shot and when the pan is off just inspect everything thoroughly and use a shop rag with cleaner to wipe up sediment that you find in the pan. Old trannies almost always come out easier than new ones.

Anything 1990 or newer that uses Dextron III or greater it's never going to be a problem as long as you use the correct fluid, preferrably actual OEM fluid so you get the right friction modifiers with the fluid.