It's happened to me too. When I got my New 05' coupe, I had to replace the assembly at around 7K miles later or so, and now i'm at around 19K and i'm having the same issues again more often and am in need of having it replaced once again, but this time i'm going with an Aftermarket one.

Only thing is that when it first went, my dad was nice enough to handle it while I was working and all he told me was that he took care of it. I wish he wouldn't had of done that cause I would have put in an Aftermarket one instead of the " Stealership " charging him around $1800 to replace, that I later found out after it was too late.

It really should have been covered by Warranty, especially since there was such low miles too. I had never had a problem with my 04' coupe RIP, but when I got my 05' I could tell a huge difference that the 05' clutch sucked!

I'm not impressed with Infiniti on that, there's just too many people with similar issues and they have done nothing but neglect us and send us to their stealerships when you're in a bind.

 

The reason for this problem is because of a weak diaphragm on the pressure plate. Alot of people think that it's hydraulic related and it kinda is but no really. The Pressure plate is actually the last link in any hydraulic clutch system, Most people think that the slave cylinder is the last link, When in reality the Slave depends on the fork/bearing and P/Plate to function. What happens is that the P/Plate needs to have enough spring strength to push the throw out / release bearing back on the release fork, The release for always keeps pressure on the slave thus giving you hydraulic pressure to raise the peddle back up to position. If you don't think this is true, test it. Take your slave off the tranny, push in your clutch peddle, The first thing you will notice is that the piston in your slave just shot out of the slave and now you need to put it back together and bleed you system. So go ahead and do so, now that you have it back together hold the piston with your thumb but don't push on it. Just hold it so it doesn't pop all the way out while you have a friend push you peddle down. Now go look in the car, it won't pop back up at all, no matter how long you wait. Now push in the piston in the slave as hard as you can and you'll see the peddle return alittle (you can't push hard enough with your hands to make it come back more then an 1/8 of the way.) but this is the problem. When your clutch slips because it's worn or because of a aggressive launch the P/Plate heats up thus the spring rate slows until it cools, thus making the pedal return slower. The only true fix for the problem is replacing the P/Plate with a good after market unit. I only have 7k miles on my 03' and it's already on it's way out,. The stock clutch system sucks on the G/Z. All this talk about double clutching and other fix's aren't going to do a damn thing except make you look stupid for even talking about double clutching a modern day street car.

 

change the line to a steel braided while you're at it...

 

Anyone with an aftermarket pressure plate notice a difference?

 

I don't know how many people run aftermarket pressure plates with the stock clutch. I doubt very many. Not very logical, IMO.

 

Did your clutch make a difference Trey?

 

Absolutely. After I installed the new clutch, and the SS line, I've never had the problem again.

 

So the problem is with the pressure plate in the clutch, not the hydro fluid? will changing the fluid to DOT4 help? Can you mix DOT3 and DOT4?

 

this is crazy...
i got this issue too and they say i need new clutch and flywheel...

what should i do? try a different dealer?

 

Anyone in the East Bay (Concord, Vallejo, Walnut Creek??) I've been having the same prblem. However, I'm also having problems with the actual pedal. After letting off the pedal it doesn't seem to want to come back to its original resting position. It just stays there half way.. not engaged to where I can't drive, but pressed. Anyone?? I have an appointment w the dealer next week. Hoping to get some other feedback. Thanks

 

Damn... Same thing happened to me at the track on 2 of my runs... guess i/ we need to take them to the dealer..sheesh this is gonna suck at only 15k..

 

Don't bother, they can't fix it. G35 = gay transmission

*edit* If you did take your car in, what would you say to them? I was trying to launch at the race track and I launched at 3000 and my clutch got stuck in until I let off the gas pedal?

 

I still get the same problem with my new Clutch and flywheel. Someone on my 350z says "if you change the clutch line to stainless steel clutch line with high temp fluid", this will fix the problem. It's happen with the clutch water start to boil, and the clutch line can't handle the high temp.

 

Also, he said “there might be air bubble in the line".

 

While on the way to the dealership to get my rear quarter windows replaced under warranty my clutch pedal started sticking. I had to kick it back up to the correct position on almost each shift by the time I got it there. When I stopped the car I could press the clutch several times and get it to stick halfway with the engine off. I showed the service manager what was happening and they said they would check it. I had never heard about this issue before and I popped the hood and verified the fluid level was full with the service manager watching. Of course the first thing I do when I get home is search and find this thread.


Today I get the call that my car is ready. I ask about the clutch and they tell me "we couldn't get it to stick today, so it's fine..."

It's been so long since I owned a car under warranty I forgot how worthless they really are...