You guys have to go back to the D-Wolf clutch kit, It's the right way to fix this issue. I've had one on my car for over 3 years with no issues.

 

how many people have adjusted the height of their clutch or the engagement point of their clutch and now have a problem with the clutch sticking? bc mine ONLY does it when i lower my engagement point... i need a lot of responses please let me know how many have adjusted and have sticking clutch now

ps my clutch fluid is as clean and new as it gets, i have been to the dealership 5 times for this sticking problem, they have replaced my master AND slave cylindar and bled the system

so i'm wondering if the main problem is just because i adjusted my clutch... the dealership got my clutch working now without sticking but i have to shift like a gorilla using my entire leg for the clutch rather than just my foot (very hard to be precise with it now! )

 

probably it not the adjustment you made. it just had a PROBLEM.
you just adjust it again so its easier to shift and dont adjust too much

 

d-wolf, 2 posts up...

 

I lowered mine a good bit with no problems so far. The clutch never sticks and it goes into every gear fine. The only issue, if you want to call it that, is that the helper spring isnt strong enough to push the pedal back out completely. It comes out more than enough for the clutch to fully engage but there is a little slack in the pedal. No big deal though.

About that D-Wolf kit, Im sure its a good kit and does the job just fine but I would rather use whats already there from the factory (threaded rod). I know some have had issues with doing it this way but the way I see it is that if the pedal wasnt meant to be adjusted then there wouldnt be a means of doing it. Meaning preset from the factory with no way of changing it.

 

It is abig deal...
The purpose of that helper spring is to make sure the throw-out bearing never rests on the pressure plate fingers while the clutch is disengaged.
good luck

 

I tried doing this to my car today. It's impossible to get an open wrench in there and move it to loosen that bolt on the rod because there is no room. I removed the foot rest and the fuse cover I need a smaller wrench but where do you find one shorter?

 

This friggin bolt is pissing me off, do you turn the bolt clockwise or counter?

 

Since I'm too lazy to figure out how many pennies it takes to accomplish the exact same thing as the d-wolf, I'll buy one for $10.

 

I did the the whole penny trick at first and it seemed to work good with eliminating the overall throw of the clutch. The problem with that and the d-wolf kit is that it does not move the actual position your foot needs to be to release the clutch. Meaning all it does is add a stopper which does not allow you to push the clutch all the way to the floor. For me, the problem was how high i needed to bring my foot/leg up to release the clutch. By adjusting the clutch with the factory adjustment, this fixes the problem by shortening the overall throw of the pedal as well as bringing the engagement point closer to the floor. just my .02

 

I did this but I realized that the spring doesnt push the clutch pedal all the way back where it was set... In essence, it isn't returning back to the original position.

Spring fix?

Adrian

 

I know exactly what you mean. I was just thinking about this earlier today, it doesn't seem like it would be too hard. I will get under the steering wheel later and take a look at the possibilities of a fix.

As of now I have mine adjusted right at the point where the helper spring barely brings the clutch pedal all the way out back out.

 

if the nut is stuck you guys might wanna try spraying a bit of WD40 on it

 

Which of these methods is better?

This one or the nickel/penny one? Can anyone weigh in?

 

see post #55