DIY: cam position sensors
 

haven't seen one of these but seen a few questions on this. so ill try to explain it this is my 1st DIY thread so bear with me.
they could have make the sensors the same and saved money but they didn't the only difference is the angle of the plug. and you could swap them is the grooves on the connectors weren't reversed

TOOLS: 10mm socket, 10mm box end wrench, flat head screw driver.

1. disconnect batt.
2. get to work remove intake and (engine cover 2 bolts and 2 nuts)
3. remove upper plenum
4. remove lower plenum
5. move wire bundle to access bank 1 sensor
6. remove 1 10 mm bolt and pull the sensor out
7. replace with new sensor
8. remove breather hose from valve cover (forgot to circle that one but youll see it. if you dont get some glasses)
9. remove 1 10 mm bolt and pull out bank 2 sensor
10 . replace sentor
11. re-assemly, johnny 5
12. reconnect batt.
13. turn her on.

PIC 1: Upper plenum (remove bolts(alot), nuts and 3 or 4 hoses,i think there is one one the bottom of the TB, circled)
PIC 2: lower plenum (remove 6 bolts in center, 2 nuts and 1 hose, circled)
PIC 3: sensor positions (left side = passenger)
PIC 4: sensor before removal(1 10mm bolt holds that sucker in and an "O" ring gotta wiggle it to get it out)
PIC 5: sensor after removal

Bank 2 is similar except the sensor has an angled connector(and is on the opposite side)

PIC 1: shot of empty sensor location(back shot)
PIC 2: top shot of empty sensor location
PIC 3: shot of bank 2 sensor with angled plug

all in all a couple hours work sorry if this post sux but hope it helps

It helped a lot! I took of my airbox and intake and waited for my engine to cool down. Turns out that Nissan sold me the wrong part. They gave me the one for Bank 1, not Bank 2. Looks like they're different enough for it to not work...

Oh well, at least I didn't have the manifold off already.

So you didnt have to ECU reset or throttle reset anything? Just reassembled everything and crank??

I used your diy post. I have to say thank you and good job! The car is back to normal and since i did it myself i'm sure it pisses off mechanics/stealerships everywhere that they went to school for this crap and couldn't screw me over on labor charges!! Once again, thanks!

Yep, took a couple pics when I was swapping my motors
Attachment 237685
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_0952.jpg

Just in case it helps

Has anyone experienced start up problems after the DIY. Did the DIY which went great but when I start the car everything is fine (no service engine light, slip light or VDC) then later the idle drops and engine shuts off with only the battery light on. I restart it no problem but same thing happens, now when I give it gas or a slight touch on the pedal the engine stays on. Anyone might know the cause?

They can be changed from under the car without taking anything off.

well geee thanks, why dont you write a DIY with pics for everyone?

because just telling us it can be done isnt going to help anyone.

:45: :smile002: :icon02:

:drama:


Nice DIY, If I ever did this I might like to see the alternate method covered in a DIY. ;)

Check your throttle body. Make sure it is clean. I had this problem when my car was warm. Also do the ECU reset. I haven't changed my cam sensors, but want to make sure it's not the TB. Either way you should do an ECU reset.

^ Never performed a ECU reset, how would I go about doing one?

GoogLe is your friend. Seriously search it. EAsy ecu reset procedure

Awesome DIY thank you so much. I was able to use this site (1youngowner's post) to diagnose my problem and then use this DIY. It really is almost as easy as it looks and it will save you time and about 300 from the dealership. Also a tip that I found while i was doing it, if you only have to replace bank 2 (driver's side) then you can leave on the lower part of the plenum.
-proud new member

yup... after the first time it happened to me i thought it might be the throttle position so i did the reset on it and after a few miles of driving it did the same thing again. after this time the christmas lights on my dash stayed on so i left the car on when i got home and scanned it, saw the famous code P0340 and searched here. This DIY doesnt pop up when you just search camshaft position sensors or P0430 its linked on 2 diff threads.

Mine showed a loss of power on Thursday in about 3rd gear (auto) it shut off on friday and struggled to start. Then later it shut off after the throttle reset reset and I scanned it, didnt drive it till i installed the new sensor. Didnt wanna force anything out of my engine.

THANKS FOR THE DIY

doesnt show up in search because its labled cam position sensor instead of camshaft. i guess

is this a similar diy for the 07's

Nice write up indeed!

GREAT POST - Lousy customer service from Infiniti....
 

I have a couple of things to say.
First, I would like to thank the author of this post!!!!
What an amazing job with this!!! It's forums like this that help those who choose to do the maintenance themself, to save a boatload of money. I just really want to thank the author for his time to voluntarily put this up to help Infiniti drivers out.

Second, I will probably never buy an Infiniti again, because of the experiences I have had with recalls on the Infiniti G35. There is a definite recall on this issue, and I spent a couple of hours (both with Infiniti consumer affairs as well as the dealership) trying to plead with Infiniti to cover something that is listed as a safety hazard. I was on my way to the dealership yesterday, and the car stalled out when the light turned green, and then cut off again while moving. Just last week when it first happened, it shut off on the expressway. Personally, if I had enough time I would consider getting a lawyer and getting the backing of the nhtsa.gov. I really wouldnt doubt it if a class action lawsuit develops over this. It's clear to me that Infiniti does not care for their customers nor their safety. However, with that being said, it is what it is and it's not worth pursuing that route, for me. I work too hard and have other things to pursue, for something I could correct myself. However, As a consumer I have a choice and although I love this car, I dont like all the quirks that come with the 2003 G35.

That being said and on a positive note, THANKS to the author for helping those of us save the money and do it ourself with no thanks to Infiniti.

Also, on another note. Has anyone had any problems with getting the dang wiring harness to seperate and pull off of the camshaft sensor. I have the Technical Service bulletin and they even mention that it most likely will be difficult. I am pressing the green plastic clip but the dang thing will not release. Anyone experience this and how did you get the harness plug off.

Thanks for the DIY
 

Thank you for the pictures also! I just fixed mine today... so far so good...:biggthumpup:

Just replaced mine (bank 1, passenger side) today. A couple of tips from my experience.

First, I was able to replace mine without removing the plenum. I didn't see that anyone else had mentioned that in this thread, but I think I saw it in another thread in the forum, which is why I decided to try that route first. That saved a ton of time.

Secondly, it took me a while to figure out how to actually get a tool on the sensor bolt with the plenum on. What finally ended up working for me was a 3/8" drive socket wrench with a 3" extension and a standard (as opposed to deep) 10mm socket. I've attached a pic of this -- hopefully it's clear in the pic how I got the socket on the bolt and ran the wrench down behind the bulky wiring harness coming from the battery compartment. I found that it's much easier to unbolt/remove the sensor first and then unplug the connector/harness rather than trying to unplug the connector and then unbolt the sensor. In fact, it may be impossible to do it without unbolting the sensor first.

Regarding unplugging the connector, kmj1268's comment above states how difficult it is, to which I can attest. It's very counter-intuitive:

Member Evan78 posted exactly how to do this in another thread on the same topic, which can be seen here. Channel locks to release the connector were the magic tool. His post includes this tip, along with several other helpful pointers.

Thanks to all who have contributed. Hopefully this is useful info for somebody!

Thanks for the photo and the channellock advice . worked great

thanks for the write up!

Is the wiring harness being moved via the whole bracket being unbolted or is it held in by that clip that needs to be disconnected? I can't figure out how to move this and I am doing it now.

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you

Well, I wasn't able to figure it out, so i moved it using brute force, bent the bracket a bit with a screwdriver while a friend of mine to the socket on the bolt head.

Got it all back together and did the ECU reset. No CEL yet, so i think i did this correctly. time will tell...

great DIY and to the guy who said to use channel locks on the connector...awesome idea, came apart instantly.

Thanks for this write up, could not have done this without it.

good write up. However you don't have to do any of this to change the sensors. you can reach your hand down from the top if you are a smaller person OR if you are normal size you can jack the car up and get them from the bottom (easiest way, takes 10 minutes or less). Simply jack the car up and get under it, look up and locate the sensors on the back of the block and change them.

i am having the same issue with my 2010 g37 what did the dealer do?? did they fix it?

Thanks for this write up. It helped me immensely. My 2004 G35 coupe was starting hard when it was warm and today it just quit driving down the road. Left it cool for 10 minutes and was able to get it started and made it home. Checked the code and got P0430. Replaced that camshaft module and it worked. Took 30 minutes and probably saved $300 and/or the pain of going through the recall procedure. Thanks again!

great writeup. helped a ton

Since I didn't see any real details on how to change these without removing anything I created a log in just to post my experiences with this issue. You can in fact change both of these cam sensors without removing anything but the engine cover. The one on the passenger side is able to be changed by standing and bending over the car from the passenger side. The one on the drivers side is a little more difficult but also possible to change without removing anything. I had to crawl up on the engine block and bury both my arms between the engine and the frame and dig around to find the right bolt,you can then get a wrench (10mm) on it and take it off. Make sure to use your needle nose pliers to remove the harness. Like others have said, on both of the sensors I highly suggest removing the bolt first and then the harness. This will save you a ton of trouble. I'm 5' 6" and 150lb so this may not be ideal for anyone who is of the larger nature but if you're able I highly suggest trying it without removing everything. The whole process took about an hour and my car is running great again! Thanks for the DIY.

Help cam sensor problem
 

Ok so my problem is that i would get 4 codes all the time and it always comes back to haunt me. Car would not go over 2300rpm when all lights are on. I unplugged the driver side cam sensor and car can reach higher rpm and drives fine.

2003 g35 coupe 6speed manual 93k miles with a 84k miles engine swapped. Motor was never opened up before as i can still see the oem gasket makers squished in place still.
SES light on
VDC light on
SLIP light on

Error code:
P0328(knock sensor high input)

P0011(variable valve timing over advance bank 1?)

P0021(variable valve timing over advance bank 2?)

P0345(camshaft position sensor "A" bank 2 circuit)

I replaced the knock sensor with a autozone one, still same codes and problem driving

I replaced the driver side cam sensor with a nissan one and problem still persists.

One thing i did find out weird, bought a oreilly cam sensor for driver side, car just cranks and not firing up. Returned it and got another one, same thing. So i went to autozone and bought one, still same results. Finally i got sick of it and went to nissan and bought one. Fires my car right up and runs. But problem jerking and not going over 2300 rpm still there.


i can unplug the driver side cam sensor and the car would actually run normally but with all the warning lights on. Just takes 3-4 seconds to start up, car never shut offed on me either, runs with the cam sensor not plugged in and still runs after plugged in with all warning lights on. Last thing i want to hear is timing jumped. And the engine sounds quiet and normal. Dont hear any chain slapping or tensioner ticking

If anyone can help i would really appreciate it.

Message me or post on here thanks

Three years later, the other sensor finally died - got code P0345, same symptoms as the last time: hard to start, running rough, limited RPMs. I picked up the part from my local Nissan because I was in a pinch to get the car running -- prices have gone up since 2011! I talked them down from MSRP $135 to $115, even though it can be had online for around $85. Last time I got the part for the passenger side for $65 out the door from Nissan...

Anyway, wanted to give a shout-out to this more frequently updated thread that has some helpful tips:
DIY Cam Position Sensor Easy Version

I also wanted to state that I was able to get the driver-side sensor removed and new one installed without removing any of the throttle intake tubing or throttle body. I had to fish my hands around the back of the passenger side of the motor, and I used a very small 1/4" socket wrench to get to it. It was a bit of a trick, but all was done in about 20-30 minutes.

Just to repeat it here since I had to search a bit elsewhere to find it, the error codes and corresponding part numbers and sides are as follows:
Unfortunately in the process of pulling my ECU trouble codes, I also found that I have a P0327 code - knock sensor circuit. So I'm going to have to address that at some point. But, it doesn't impact performance or throw a check-engine light, so it can wait...

how often do these need changing?

This is like asking how often you should change plugs. Because of how badly embarrassed I was when my car started acting funny like this while I was on date, I now keep both bank 1 and 2 aftermarket sensors in my trunk.

I would replace them at every 100k maximum.

You didn't put in OEM ones?

Not worth it. Auto zone sensors have lived in my car for 15k miles so far. I got one for free and the other was at a discount so...

Ricer

Racer.

Oh shiit, that's funny. While you were on a date? "No, no, I swear my car is awesome! Why are you walking to the bus stop now?"

a glimpse into said "date"
Attachment 267020

Drivin a mazda - mi-ata - its definitely not..a Honda.

MIATA LIIIIFE!

I mean it's pretty awkward to have any car troubles on a date just as much as it is on a long trip. Well shiiiii....

If I ride with someone with a check engine light on they usually get judged. So I know I got judged that time haha.

"Oh it's just the cam position sensor, easy fix"

I'm having a BBQ later and you're all invited.
Attachment 188749

lol on my old honda i blew out my clutch on a date. haha it was already slipping and went i went into third it i guess slipped back into first and i redlined BAD. the needle was off the gauge lol.
but its a honda so of course the motor was fine.

"Sorry, I was just trying to impress you"

I impressed all the bishes with my SOHC d17 daily driver

Am I am the only one on this site who's G is his first import?

'Murica!!

Question on Cam position sensors.
 

I got my sensors mixed up. Could someone show me a pic with the sensors in so I know which side the one with the elbow goes?

Bank one is straight. Bank 2 is bent.