That sounds like a good idea, but not necessarily. Don't mean to knock your ideas, and perhaps the pasted quote below from an fx site is wrong but nonetheless, it makes sense. I've read a lot from this guy, think his handle was bjung or something like that. When I've resolved my issue, whether or not I need a new vb/tcm, I'll post two companies I found that sell remaned units, programmed & one has a lifetime warranty for $700-750.
" If you thought the snake oil was plentiful on other aspects of the transmission?wait until you read this?quick reminders on strength?we like, almost every one else, use torque management where several cylinders are dropped and timing cut back on each shift for a nano second to improve life and reduce wear.
Most agree that there is no down side to a thermostatically controlled transmission cooler! BUT, there may be no positive either
-Must have a thermostat. Too cold is bad ,as bad as too hot. While fluid size increases are good, they usually are not necessary on stock vehicles or even modestly improved vehicles. If you tow or are routinely in rough terrain ,the cooler may help. But ,this is not the first or even 15th thing you may add to your vehicle?.so why do I read so much about coolers on other sites for this trans!?Even more interesting,is why are there almost as many manufacturers of parts for our 5AT as there are for all of Ford,GM,etc???
PS I do not have a trans cooler
Please remember this: There is one supply of fluid for the trans,VB,and TC and one cooling avenue ,through the radiator side tank. If you alter the flow/decrease that flow, you will overheat?heat kills?If your trans cooler is cold/cool?It is not working?or is not getting fluid?it should be warm to the touch?think about it!
Some of the aftermarket valve bodies generate higher fluid temperatures. How can this be true, if the purpose of these aftermarket VB?s is faster shifts?therefore less slippage, therefore less heat?but they do and coolers are even recommended?THEY RUN WARMER AND EVEN HOTTER BECAUSE THE FLOW TO THE COOLER IS RESTRICTED TO RAISE INTERNAL LINE PRESSURES FOR FASTER SHIFTS
Ask questions, because as you add more power you are increasing the stress that something in THEIR design has already increased. You have to understand this because a loose TC will push you over the edge on cooling.
If you add an aftermarket TC, the increased slippage of the higher stall may cause higher heat?if fluid flow is already compromised, this moves from acceptable to dangerous very quickly.
Just to be clear, there are lots of ways to increase slippage?bending fins is easy,less scientific and will produce a lot of heat. Better designs of fins and stators do this with hi efficiency and less heat?YOU need to know which technique is in use. Ineffiecient fin design means more heat, slower recovery in street driving.
Somewhere on Org, I mentioned I got involved with a friend manufacturing TC?s. He was an older racer at Atco(low 13 second older car?weekend racer) and managed Pat?s Converters a regional shop here.I would just leave CC at the end of the day, stop at Pat?s on the way home, not quite,and talk and walk on pallets soaked in fluid and trying not to snag my suits on metal filings or slip as he taught me the ?art? . Learned a ton.
Someone said?I do not want to buy from Level 10??fine by me, but you had better learn about transmissions or waste $ like those on some other sites
Careful with mixing and matching and please ask questions "

 

All the reading and research i did seems to contradict it. Trans temp on highway driving are low, but when you get into the city driving and stop and go traffic that tends to creep up quick. Not to mention if you do track even or autoX that will raise temps as well. I seen regular cars with OEM trans temp gauges go up as high as 210 just in traffic condition on a semi hot day. Can you imagine what beating on the transmission does.
When my motor was swapped out some years back, they said that my atf was really dark and asked if i beat on the transmission. Obvously i said no. But that basically shows that atf was going up high in temps to turn black.
There is definitely some truth to what is stated that longer line than what was intended though the radiator cooler could create pressure drop, but wouldnt that be the same for engine oil and running a cooler there?
I definitely do not want to over cool trans either and that why thermostat was going in. I am keeping lines with what oem rubber lines size is. I've seen on some other cars where guys took time out to data log temps on in and out sides and they did notice temps spike up drastically from highway to city driving. I dont see how he is stating the cooler could be a bad idea if the statement heat kills transmissions is true. I guess within the right balance if is ok.
I ran oil cooler in line with oem cooler on my previous car and didnt see any issue. I am hoping this will prolong my trans life. Only thing i am sure of is that i hope it works lol

 

I think that w/an oil cooler, the scenario is different. We've got coolant running through the engine which also keeps the oil temps in check. Trans is on it's own. Trans also works via pressure & the effects temps have on pressure concerning the fluid but also the various metals within the trans. My best guess is a smallish cooler for the trans unless big power or towing should suffice, or just stick w/stock setup until otherwise needed. Infiniti's don't seem to have the coolant-escaping-into-the-transmission-fluid issue like many nissans do, though it has happened & once it does, the tcm will fail or so I've been told. Best to ask a pro or three before touching the jatco transmission imho.

 

I agree with you, too big is bad but i recently had a rental camaro while i was out for work in san fran and it had a trans temp gauge. I was curious to see wwhat the temps were like under normal conditions and not beating on the car or anything and going from highway to stop and go traffic shot the temps up from 170 to 200. Now imagine what that would do if i was trying to push it. I cant say if it did or did not have a trans cooler but i did not expect the temps do be that high from just regular city traffic.
I did hear a few stories from several transmission shops that did warn me about coolant mixing in with atf and that is one of the reasons why i went stand alone to eliminate oem radiator.
I dont know if there is one true answer on this topic as each person will have different view on it and even experts wont agree i am sure. As different conditions and areas and driving styles will yield a different result.

 

Blue Dream probably needs to get involved since that link redirects to a really spammy looking job search site...

 

I never got an email telling me there was a response. Sorry so late. Temps will be at there worst in normal city type traffic and worse than there worst sitting at idle on a 100* day. IAT's, coolant, trans and engine oil all go to **** in a situation like that.
Coolant mixing with trans fluid or known by the pro's in the know is "glycol in the trans fluid" and is a 99% nissan issue, primarily the frontier and pathfinder but also the mini vans. I got this info from dealing with a transmission issue and speaking with 1/2 dozen people that rebuild the jatco's and those that rebuild the valve bodies and resell.

 

Spam is expressly not allowed on the forum and will result in a permanent ban if posted.

Carry on folks.....

 

So I just read through the whole thread and nothing was mentioned about the filter. Is it replaced?

 

It's just a large sediment metal screen filter. No real reason to change it on the G35 but if you have the valve body out you might inspect it to see if there's anything caught in it that could indicate other transmission problems. If it looks bad just clean it with brake cleaner or something along those lines.

If you're keeping up on transmission fluid change intervals then it's getting 25% of the volume of fluid swapped every 30k miles, this is all that's needed to flush out clutch particulates and metal shavings from wear.

 

Awesome, thanks. 👍🏻

 

Started my Transgo install today. Little confused on the Transgo instructions. Step 2 says to remove one of the springs. Can this be right? I can't imagine putting this valve back in with no spring...??? Can anybody that's done this confirm if you removed this spring completely?

 

Yes. Follow the instructions.

 

Finished the Transgo install. It works exactly as others have described. Shifts totally normally at anything under 3k. Shifts really nicely at higher RPM. This DIY thread is quite good and if you follow it, you can do this even working with the car on jack stands. The only thing I would add to this DIY is that having the ATSG RE5R05A transmission service manual that somebody (Scumbagsleeper?) posted a while back. It has more detail about disassembly and reassembly than the Transgo kit. I thought this extra detail was helpful. Specifically I wasn't sure if the metal stem from the PNP switch that mates semi-blind when you reinstall the VB had to insert into the connector slot or slid in next to it. When I had the stem lined up to insert into the connector slot, parts of the manual valve would interfere and not let me bolt the VB up but it would bolt up fine if i slid the stem next to the slot. But the trans manual has a picture showing exactly how it has to be inserted into. I used a long screwdriver to reach up above the valve body and tweak the metal stem to line up with the slot and then the VB would mate up properly.

 

Does anyone know of a shop that would do this install in the Los Angeles area? Thanks

 

no shop is going to install that inless they can completely rebuild the tranny first at least thats what they all told me.they said they cant guarantee the work in a used tranny but i installed it my self yes it is a t tedious job ,its not hard work by no means but u better keep your **** stright and label everything, and put everything in bags ,and dont be afraid to call the guys at transgo they where a huge help with all my questions and where happy to help me ,so if u run into any parts of the instructions that are not explained well enough for u then u can call them and they will talk u threw it,besides calling them andnthe regular instructions there is a forum where guy also shows u pics and explains certain things so between the instructions, the guys at transgo,and the forum u should be able to do it no problem, how ever if u drop that trans pan and have any metal shavings in it then i would stop and fine another trans to do the kit on ,if u decide to take this on and i can help in anyway please feel free to call me 828 215 4790 and good luck