I hope that someone can help me to figure out this problem. I will explain everything in detail so a conclusion can be drawn. I have an 03 G35 AT Sedan w/ Bose. I bought a Viper 1200.1 amp, a diamond audio d6 12" dual 2 ohm sub, a kicker 4 gauge wiring kit, and a PAC Oem2 Line output converter. I thought everything would be great. I also used b-quiet sound deadener, so far in the trunk and rear deck. I have always installed my own stereo systems in various cars I have had and have never had problems. I researched many forums and read reccomendations on where to run wires and how to make the install easier.

I began by running the power wire as reccomended. Down the grommet on passenger side and through the kick panel area, along the floor, and into the trunk. I grounded the amp using one of the rear armrest bolts. Then I hooked up my Line output converter. I followed the instructions to the tee.. soldered the right and left rear speaker wires into the right and left rear wires of the bose HU output (before amp). Also, my LOC requires switched vehicle power and ground and also has an optional input for remote turn on wire that basically goes straight through the LOC to the amp. I found the amp on signal wire for my car (green w/ white stripe) and I had read that people have used this wire as remote turn on for their amp as well as a switched power source. I tested it at 12 volts. I connected my remote wire leading to my viper amp along with the switched power wire going to the LOC to that green and white "Amp on" wire. Then I soldered the ground wire from the LOC into the ground for the bose amp. I also unplugged the bose subwoofer as was reccomended by someone in the forums. I hooked up the amp and the sub and finally took the grand test drive.

Everything sounded great. Then, as I drove a few minutes more, I noticed when i would stop and go, The car would jerk into 2nd and third gear (automatic trans.). This worried me, because out of all of the installs I had read about, I never came across this problem. Then I noticed that when I turned my bass **** almost all the way down, it would stop jerking into 2nd and 3rd. Ok, so I figured the cars electrical system couldnt handle the power that the was drawing. That just didnt seem right though, Ican barely have the bass turned up and the car will do this. There are even times when driving at steady rate, I can feel the car slow everytime a kick drum hits in a song. My Honda accord v6 could power an amp that had just as much output along with two subs just fine, dont tell me the infiniti cant even power one 12 with a 1200 watt mono amp not even truned up 1/8 of its max capability. I thought maybe the battery was going bad and not able to hold charge so I tested it and it is fine. So, thats the first issue, now there is another.
I noticed this last night when I was driving. I was listening to brand new cd that I knew was not scrathed at all and I hear a static noise in door speakers becoming more and more obvious as the song plays. I changed the song, still there, but not inbetween the song changing, so i know it is the HU and not the door speakers causing the problem. I even changed the cd and the static/scartchy sound was still there in music background. So, I went home and parked the car for the night and in the morning left for work thinking it would still sound like crap. But, it was back to normal. as I drove to work, the static slowly appered again (after about five minutes), so I shut the HU off. I was wondering if I had the LOC outputs turned up too high and that might be causing a problem for some odd reason, so I turned the outputs down to about a qquarter of max level... problem still there. Then I thought maybe the headunit is overheating for some reason and causing the static. Is that a possibility. If so, why the overheating?
Now, last issue. I noticed that a couple of times, when I start the car, the amp will power on but there will be no sound from sub. I shut the car off and trun it on again and still no sub. So I am driving for a couple minutes and , suddenly the sub turns on and stays on until I shut the car off again. I figured if the amp was overheating, it would shut off during play back instead of not powering sub when initiated. Am I wrong? I have checked all connections and know that not to be an issue. Is it overheating or, something related to my other problems? I should also mention that the amp is 1 ohm stable and the dual 2 ohm sub is wired at 1 ohm. If the amp is overheating and a cooling fan will not fix the prob, I will wire the sub to 4 ohms and sacrifice some power to run it. Well, I know that was long, but that is it.

Here are some posible causes for my problems that I can think of (correct me if wrong):

*I unplugged the bose sub from connecter at oem sub. I taped the connector to protect against short.
*I tapped into Bose amp ground wire with Line output converter ground input
*I connected the remote wire for viper amp along with switched power input for LOC to bose remote wire (12 volts on wire, would the LOC, the viper amp and the bose amp combined be too many amps for that remote wire?)
*came up with one possible cause for the jerky shifting. I noticed though research that the power wire for the amp is ran near the ECU and the TCM that are located in or aroung the passenger kick panel. Is the voltage from the 4 gauge wire causing the ecu and/or tcm to act funny? I must mention also that I mounted the kicker fuse block in that kick panel and maybe that is releasing more voltage to nearby electrical wires and components. ???

I have found only a couple of posts relating to the jerking transmission issue and one persoan said they nearly solved the problem by installing a 1 farad power cap, and another person said that they changed the amplifier they were using, bought a new battery, bought a high output alternator, installed a power cap, none of that cured the problem. He claimed that the only thing that finally fixed the issue was to replace the Bose HU with an aftermarket pioneer and double din kit. That would be an expensive fix to my problem and I dont understand why the bose HU would cause all of the problems I am having. If anyone has any links to other posts regarding any of these problems or if you have and idea about why they are happening, please tell me. I spent a lot on system components and I would like to be able to enjoy them without the car falling apart. Thank you all for you time and help.

 

that is one long post - sorry I only skimmed it.

i assume you used 4 gauge wire for your grounds to your amps.

i assume your amp has a high freq filter so only the low signals get sent to the amp.

Are you tapping into the Bose amp BEFORE or AFTER the amp? Many tap without using a LOC at all because the signal from the HU is under 2.2V or so.

My 4 gauge power wire goes right behind the ECU - no problems. There is no HF signal to cause interference. There is no high voltage to cause arcing. You should be fine with that.

I would check the splicing of the LOC. Use a grounding block and draw all of your grounds from one point. Mess as little as possible with existing wires.

I think you've got current travelling where its not supposed to (ground loop type of issue).

You should be using a capacitor 1.2F at least with that much power draw or you may tax the electrical system.

I think the way you have your components grounded is the culprit though.

 

+1 Sounds like a bad ground... ...or, at least, not an optimal ground connection.

It always seems to be the case when dealing with strange electrical issues. Try a better ground first, as it's free and shouldn't be too difficult.