Cut a bunch of filters aparts sometime and check out the CHEAP cardboard baffles and plastic anti-drainback springs instead of real metal springs and higher quality materials. I agree that this does not tell the quality of the filter material but if the other componenets are of a better quality you would assume the filter material is too. Just don't buy FRAM folks!


Larry Bushaw - 6MT coupe - "Second place is the first looser"

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

Just don't buy FRAM folks!

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This seems to be a common sentiment at every board I've visited, however, I must state that my '93 Altima that was at 170K miles when I traded it, didn't consume a drop of oil between changes. And I used Castrol GTX and Fram oil filters the whole time... I didn't even change the oil regularly enough, only whenever I got the chance somewhere between 4K and 9K... so my current ODI regimen should be overkill (and safe).


<font color=red>chinee</font color=red>
03.5 G35s

 

What was the p/n of the purolator filter?

I got my oil changed from Firestone and they put Purolator One L14612

I think Puralotor One or Plus something is supposed to one of the better oil filters. I read this as someone who did lengthy testing. He did mention that Fram is pretyy bad filter and had some serious issues. I ws surprised too but it seems true so I try to avoid them.

2003 G35 Black Sedan

 

ok, I just did my first oil change at 2000 miles. I would like to know who the fricken gorilla was that put that damn thing on. Took me about an hour just trying to change my oil, felt like it was welded on or something. First I tried going through the access hole by hand (no go), then I used a thick rubberband for grip (no go). Out came the band style filter wrench, just kept sliping so I decided to take off the under tray to gain more access. Still slips, so I put a screw into the band to bite into the filter (no go, it just starts to shred the metal filter body). next comes the cap type filter wrench, still slips I could feel the bumps on the filter giving in the cap. Last ditch effort, I put the rubber band onto the filter and then press on the cap wrench, finally success, it's off. But now the fricken thing is stuck on the cap wrench. That was totally ridiculous. I was tempted to just slam a screwdriver through the filter to muscle it out, but then I thought to my self, what if it still doesn't budge, then I'm really screwed.

anyways, I used the Mobil 1 M-108 filter and regular Penzoil. I'm going to run that until 5k then switch to Mobil 1 10w30. from then on change oil/filter at 5k intervals. I think regular oil is fine if you're going to do 3k changes, but because of the difficult access on this car and the fact that I drive 1500+ miles a month I wanted to extend my drain intervals so synthetic seems like a logical choice for me.

the debate of the oil and filters goes on. here's my take on it. regular oil is fine if you do frequent changes, but if you want to extend the change interval then synthetic may be a better choice. I know that sometime's I've been lazy in the past and went 5k on my truck with regular oil and the oil was opaque black and from what others have told me synthetic remains clear longer so I guess it doesn't burn up as quickly and degrade so for extended use it may be worth while. I've always been a firm believer on frequent oil changes with regular oil but since this car is a pain to do, I think I'll make the switch over to synthetic to same myself some aggravation.

Oil filters - everyone says Fram sucks, so I decided to switch over to something else. I wanted to get either K&N or Mobil 1 but no one around here carries the size we take so I had to mail order. I got the Mobil 1 from www.autozone.com, free 2-day FedEx shipping if you buy over $100 so now I've got a big stash of filters. K&N flows better but at what cost, reduced filtration. What is the purpose of the filter? to filter the oil, if you wanted the most available flow, then no filter is the answer. I know this is an extreem example but the point being that the filter is there to filter, even if a tiny particle got though it could possibly block the oil passages and then you would get no flow. As far as the filter size, maybe bigger is better maybe not. But they make the different sizes for a reason, it was engineered for a specific purpose. It would be much more cost effective and simpler for them to simply put out less filters in a more universal size, but they make different filters for specific applications so who are we to second guess their expertise. I'll take the recommended size.

 

Just a heads up, the Nissan filters are quite good. They are designed to last 3750 miles. Which is when oyu should change your oil anyways, unless your using synthetic. Spending a whole bunch of money on these whoop-de-do filters is a waste to me. Just change the oil and filter every 3750 or 7500, that is the best insurance you can do for your ride

 

Are there any engineers or auto-tech's on the board that can comment on the possible reasons for the small OEM filter size? Or to the disadvantages of using a larger filter (i.e. Maxima) on the VQ35?