Is an engine flush worth it?
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: Studio City, CA
Is an engine flush worth it?
I took my car to get the oil changed recently (at 76000 miles) and the techs recommended I should get my engine flushed. Now when an engine is flushed, it's to get the sludge out right? Is this worthwhile to do on the G35? I've read some pros and some cons other places, but I can't seem to dig anything up on G35driver about anyone having their engine flushed. I normally use synthetic oil, but for the past few changes I've been using regular (and high mileage).
Originally Posted by mswc
I took my car to get the oil changed recently (at 76000 miles) and the techs recommended I should get my engine flushed. Now when an engine is flushed, it's to get the sludge out right? Is this worthwhile to do on the G35? I've read some pros and some cons other places, but I can't seem to dig anything up on G35driver about anyone having their engine flushed. I normally use synthetic oil, but for the past few changes I've been using regular (and high mileage).
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 30,341
Likes: 9
From: Cambridge, Ont. Canada
Originally Posted by k_hojnacki
I suggest against it and most likely you do not need it. If you do flush you have the possibility of dislogging some sludge that may end up causing it to plug an oil passage. If you have been using synthetic, the chance of sludge is minimal anyway. Why take a chance. JMHO
Whatever oil you use, go by the normal change schedule....
C.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,762
Likes: 2
From: Northern Virginia
Originally Posted by Msedanman
+1.....no flush. -- but don't go long intervals between oil changes. Some of these oils promise longer mileages like 10-15k miles but I don't believe in that.
Whatever oil you use, go by the normal change schedule....
C.
Whatever oil you use, go by the normal change schedule....
C.
Originally Posted by Callaway
I would never think about going 10-15K miles between oil changes, but I do go 5-6K miles which shouldn't be a problem with Mobil 1.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 494
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From: WESTCHESTER
Originally Posted by k_hojnacki
I suggest against it and most likely you do not need it. If you do flush you have the possibility of dislogging some sludge that may end up causing it to plug an oil passage. If you have been using synthetic, the chance of sludge is minimal anyway. Why take a chance. JMHO
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Originally Posted by durtee_south
Mobil 1 and all synthetics are good...IMO, nothing competes with royal purple oil
redline>royal purple
but, ENEOS is top of the line. i'm using 0w-50 and my engine revs alot quicker. felt the diffrence right away. for those who don't know, eneos is the number 1 oil in japan.
Originally Posted by durtee_south
Mobil 1 and all synthetics are good...IMO, nothing competes with royal purple oil
Better oils are Motul, German Castrol, Amsoil and Redline. I've never really looked into this ENEOS oil that the other guy mentioned, so I have no comment on it.
2 few friends of mine used to use Royal Purple for race applications on their street-legal cars(Autocross, small 1/3 mile oval track racing, and a few drag-strip runs) but they both stopped when they started having excessive oil consumption issues with the Royal Purple that they never had with other oils. One of them actually had to replace his motor because he did damage when he burned through most of the oil in the sump over the course of about 1000 hard miles(several track events) that he foolishly didn't check his oil level during... and it was on his first oil change after switching over to Royal Purple from some other oil(not sure exactly what other oil he was using beforehand).
My personal recommendation is to go with German Castrol if you can find it at your local Auto Zone. It's usually about $6.10 per quart and is fantastic stuff. German Castrol is 100% different than regular Castrol Syntec(GC only comes in 0W30, but is actually a very thick oil for that rating), so if you want to find out how to identify true German Castrol go search on google for a picture of the bottle or look on the back of the bottle for the "Made in Germany" tag. The bottle will also probably say "European Formula" in a yellow section on the front of the bottle.. although just because it says European Formula, doesn't mean it's German Castrol. If it says "made in the United States" or something like that, it's not German Castrol. It should also have a green starburst on the front label... but the true indication is the presence of the "Made in Germany" on the back label that I mentioned.
How would any "sludge" in the engine be affected by using 100 octane and driving crazy?
Originally Posted by Nismo G
Honestly i would just go fill half a tank up of some 100 octane and floor the car around here and there. That should burn any sludge out of the engine.
-Sean
-Sean
Originally Posted by partyman66
Lots of oils not only compare to Royal Purple, but are much better than it. Royal Purple is the bottom rung of the "true" synthetic oils if you look at the specs for it and compare it against those of the better true synthetics(Pour Point, Flash Point, etc).
Better oils are Motul, German Castrol, Amsoil and Redline. I've never really looked into this ENEOS oil that the other guy mentioned, so I have no comment on it.
2 few friends of mine used to use Royal Purple for race applications on their street-legal cars(Autocross, small 1/3 mile oval track racing, and a few drag-strip runs) but they both stopped when they started having excessive oil consumption issues with the Royal Purple that they never had with other oils. One of them actually had to replace his motor because he did damage when he burned through most of the oil in the sump over the course of about 1000 hard miles(several track events) that he foolishly didn't check his oil level during... and it was on his first oil change after switching over to Royal Purple from some other oil(not sure exactly what other oil he was using beforehand).
My personal recommendation is to go with German Castrol if you can find it at your local Auto Zone. It's usually about $6.10 per quart and is fantastic stuff. German Castrol is 100% different than regular Castrol Syntec(GC only comes in 0W30, but is actually a very thick oil for that rating), so if you want to find out how to identify true German Castrol go search on google for a picture of the bottle or look on the back of the bottle for the "Made in Germany" tag. The bottle will also probably say "European Formula" in a yellow section on the front of the bottle.. although just because it says European Formula, doesn't mean it's German Castrol. If it says "made in the United States" or something like that, it's not German Castrol. It should also have a green starburst on the front label... but the true indication is the presence of the "Made in Germany" on the back label that I mentioned.
Better oils are Motul, German Castrol, Amsoil and Redline. I've never really looked into this ENEOS oil that the other guy mentioned, so I have no comment on it.
2 few friends of mine used to use Royal Purple for race applications on their street-legal cars(Autocross, small 1/3 mile oval track racing, and a few drag-strip runs) but they both stopped when they started having excessive oil consumption issues with the Royal Purple that they never had with other oils. One of them actually had to replace his motor because he did damage when he burned through most of the oil in the sump over the course of about 1000 hard miles(several track events) that he foolishly didn't check his oil level during... and it was on his first oil change after switching over to Royal Purple from some other oil(not sure exactly what other oil he was using beforehand).
My personal recommendation is to go with German Castrol if you can find it at your local Auto Zone. It's usually about $6.10 per quart and is fantastic stuff. German Castrol is 100% different than regular Castrol Syntec(GC only comes in 0W30, but is actually a very thick oil for that rating), so if you want to find out how to identify true German Castrol go search on google for a picture of the bottle or look on the back of the bottle for the "Made in Germany" tag. The bottle will also probably say "European Formula" in a yellow section on the front of the bottle.. although just because it says European Formula, doesn't mean it's German Castrol. If it says "made in the United States" or something like that, it's not German Castrol. It should also have a green starburst on the front label... but the true indication is the presence of the "Made in Germany" on the back label that I mentioned.
.I have been wanted to try the greddy racing oils...but you have to order it.
-Sean