That's great stuff. I drive a 94' Senta and just put in some M1 5w30, so now I'm a little disappointed that it's not truly fully synthetic...

What kind of oil do you think they put in the G35 when they ship them to the dealerships?

 

Some manufactures add additives that help break in the motor... thats why first oil changes look a little funny.. example would be dodge puts this green stuff in it. if you get a dodge and do a oil change right after you get it you'll still see some green

 

Would you consider waiting 3K miles to do the first oil change? I was planning when I get my G to do the oil change as soon as I drive it off the lot...

 

change it at 2000 miles if you are worried about it. I would stick with regular dino oil for the first 5000 miles. There is still the old argument of synthetics being too slippery to properly break an engine in. I am a firm believer of better safe then sorry . If it was my car I would run a dino oil until 7k-10k miles, then switch to syn. Dont be put off by regular dino oil, its come along way. I choose syn because of the long oil change interval and the fact that I track my car also syn helps in really cold climates

 

When you say regular Dyno oil, you talking like just some good ol regular oil? like 10w30 or 5w30 oil? I know you mentioned Castrol GTX is a good dyno oil...

Since your speaking of breaking in engines, I heard someone say that you shouldn't race or drive fast in your new car until it reaches about 15K miles, with that said, would you change to fully synthetic around 15K? Or have the numbers changed?(This was a long time ago when I heard about this, I think I was still in high school, lol).

 

Most modern cars a built to such a high tolerance that some argue that no break in is needed at all.

However imo, why not play it safe? Mitsu still recommends a break in for the evo, and many people who didnt follow this advice had problems. I would run regular Dino like yellow bottle pennzoil, castrol gtx etc for the first 10k. You need to run your car through the rpms to make sure it breaks in properly but avoild sustained high rpm driving like racing. Getting up to speed on the highway is ok just dont bury the throttle and hold it at 120mph

 

lol, yeah that's getting a little crazy @ 120mph. Ok that's cool. Very good stuff you figured out there about the oil and surprisingly it was today and not several months ago. Which means to me that this is new material.

However I'm very very disappointed that M1 is not longer fully synthetic, my Senta must be crying out there...

Thanks, Derek!

 

I friggin love the info you get around here! Thanks again for the heads up!!

 

i think consumer reports did a research on that ( regular oil of all kindz) the put all types and brands of oil in several taxis in NY ( they said taxis in NY had the most extremely abused engines in the country ) the results.........

all oils perform almost the same after 10,000 miles....

Btw is found this..

http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1214.pdf

 

i've been useing Royal purple for the past year and it just seems like it burns really easily. i'm just about due to change my oil. what do u guys recomend. i have read many sug. but shoudl i just stay with royal purple?

 

No need for oil addictives imo, the only one I believe in is auto-rx. Its an engine cleaner, I recomended to two friends who bought high mileage cars (bmw 328 and audi a4) Both ordered another bottle after the first treatment. The Audi stopped burning oil and my friend with the 328 says its more responsive. However no need to run it in your car unless you have 50k+ miles and have been running dino oil.

I use both products from this company based on the good reviews over at the oil forums

http://www.lubecontrol.com/

fp60 is a fuel addictive and LP20 is a oil conditioner that can be used in motor oil , atuo tranny fluid and power steering.

Chevron Techron and Redline Complete fuel treatment are considered hands down to be the best fuel treatments.

I have used redline fuel treatment and while I cant argue it.... but I did notice an improvement, car felt much faster with it. Also almost all the car companies approve of it even nissan.

 

you need to re-read this whole thread. IMO get German Castrol Syntec 0w-30 at autozone. Your car will be happy and since it is so thick oil burnoff should be curbed or eliminated

 

yes regular oil might have similar results after that type of mileage, but we are comparing true group IV syn oil vs Group III oils. If you ran german castrol syntec 0w-30 (IV) vs castrol syntec 5w-30 (III) to 10,000miles. I would bet the German castrol would produce better results.

 

u know i tried a new oil which i am VERY happy with, and i use to use Royal Purple all the time... its Eneos by Nippon... they only sell it in 5w30 or 0w30, its pretty pricey at almost $10 a quart but i liked it much better then the royal purple... i've ran the eneos now for 6k miles and still feels great... almost like new

 

Check this out all -

Truly looks like a high tech solution that cna benefit the car in a number of ways.

Let me know what you think - there is a lot of data on the site...including before and after oil contaminant reports.

http://engineous.us/go15/

Rick