Hey guys I've been trying to research cam swaps here for a while and not finding any wealth of info. It seems like few have done it, some suggested advancing the stock cams 1-2 degrees, what do you think? I want a slightly loping idle but still very daily drivable, low end torque is the goal. Anyone have cost info for installation with tuning? Thanks!

 

It's a $2000-2400 deal with parts/labor to install a set of cams. It's not easy and good for about 10-15HP at best. Bang/buck is low. It really only makes sense if you are already pulling the motor for a full build. If not, stick with the proven flow/tuning mods as they will gain the same if not more power for less $$$$ and pain.

 

Thanks for the feedback Ballisticus. So a 10-15hp gain on their own, but what if I am doing a full exhaust, plenum, intake and then retuning it? 10-15hp doesn't seem like much (LS2 can gain 100hp to the wheels with a n aggressive cam), but more importantly to me is what I can do to flatten and elongate my torque curve. This engine makes good power, but I want more of it available at the low end, 1st and 2nd feel too weak to me. Any thoughts?

 

Cams are not the best thing for HP on our cars...The LS2 block has a higher displacement engine and accepts mods freely. They make a lot of power with almost every major mod you put into it. Our cars are finely tuned so its really hard to get real power unless you go force induction. Even with FI if you planing to go over a certain amount of HP you will need to rebuild the block. Get a MREV and Spacer. It makes a good amount of power you are seeking for half the price...

 

I find it hard to believe that the LS2 can get 1/2 of 100hp to the wheels with just a cam swap. 30-40 hp tops.

Also, depending on what year you have, advancing the intake side is impossible because it already has VTC control. The exhaust might be possible but you will need an adj cam gear and alot of R&D to dial them in.

 

Advancing the cams will move the power band lower and faster.
The VQ Cams are degreed in stock with to much advance.
I would try 1 degread retard intake 2--2.5 degree retard exhaust.
This is much easier than a cam change? I have not dynoed my car sense the cam change,
But feel it made a good 20 ponies. Car ran 107mph in the 1/4 without slicks @ 4800 feet (Utah)

 

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219024

Looks like it's possible to me.

Stop spreading your dis-information! <---(Yes, Jeff, I'm teasing!)

 

Most people think that, generally mustang guys, and they're completely wrong. Just a tune can get you 30-40, a cam and a good tune >100. Check out the GTO forums, they'll make you feel inadequate.

GEE PASTA can you elaborate a bit more on that? So you swapped your cams, and if so which did you go with? So you recommend actually retarding them rather than advancing? Again I'm looking to flatten the torque curve, more power at lower rpms. Thanks for the responses.

 

Wow! So with just a cam, the LS2 can put down nearly 500hp at the flywheel?!

Can the LS1 achieve the same type of gains!?

 

If I remember correctly the percentage gain is greater on the ls1, there is more low hanging fruit than the 2, but less displacement so the full potential is not quite as high and you're starting further down the totem pole (5.7 vs. 6L). The ls1 GTOs (2004) are rated around 350 at the crank, the ls2 (2005-06) are rated at 400 to the crank. Some do head swaps along with the cams, but the ls2 heads are very good to begin with. 430rwhp after the cam swap and good tune is a good estimate, depending on how aggressive you go.

I knew there was no way the 3.5 would see this level of power gain, but the sound of a cammed car and the low end torque-iness is what I'd like to see. I'm not a high speed driver any more and I live with Boston traffic everyday, so high end is less important to me than having fun driving around town and the occasional stop light burnout. Also my milage is better than any previous car I've owned, so not too concerned there either.

 

Not easily done. To my knowledge, the world has yet to produce a proven Dynojet SAE corrected 300HP RWHP N/A 3.5VQ. If immediate, lowend power is what you want, drop the $5-6K for a Stillen Stage 3 blower kit and you are at full boost right quick. It's not making the most peak power, but is arguably the most "streetable" power and should be able to take 90% of what's out out there if that's your thing. Stage 4 is the next dose, but now you're getting unsafe on stock internals.

 

I've been reading a little bit on the SC idea, cost is an issue though. With a stage 3 kit are there still a lot of supporting mods to buy (fuel delivery?), or can you do this to a completely stock vehicle? I apparently have a good speed shop near my office that does a lot of 350Z engine work, with an experienced installer what kind of time are we talking?

I know I know, feel free to tell me to search, but if anyone knows off hand please share your 2 cents. Thanks!

 

you are going to lose low-end torque by advancing the cams..

you'd need to retard the cams.

 

How do you adv/retard the VTC cams? I'm not sure which of the aftermarket ecus can do this. And how does one adj the fixed exhaust cam? Adj cam gear? They available?

 

IIRC, revup motors have variable exhaust cams....