Are you on the original clutch?

 

I have an auto...

-Sean

 

does your vafc still show 100% tps at WOT?

 

yes, since nissan uses the drive by wire it will show whatever % depending on how much you touch the gas. I will tap the gas and the afc will show 4% right away, but the car wont "go" for about a 1/4 of a second after the afc registers the % throttle.

I think it is transmission or differential related...

-Sean

 

i would pull the intake off and check the tb. with the amount of blowby that makes its way into the manifold, i woudlnt be surprised if its sludged up. that could certainly affect response. my manifold along with the tb would gunk up quickly until i added the homemade catch can. if you do decide or need to clean the tb, just disconnect the battery. i know alot of dbw systems can get out of sync if they are tampered with while the car has power. beyond that and the possible fuel filter issue, is the injen filter clean?

 

Yeah, i was thinking a dirty TB, but someone said that couldn't be it. I had just cleaned the filter about 4 weeks ago.

-Sean

 

$20 says you MAF sensor is bit gunked up with residual oil from the air filter. Visually you can't see much build up, but you'll be surprised just how sensitive these sensors are. I highly doubt the dirty throttle body is the culprit because it would take a massive amount of gunk to kill throttle response on the TB. Your sensor may be going out and CAIs have always had a bad tendency to kill MAF sensors in 00+ VQ cars. Do you have a local G owner you could swap the MAF sensors with for 10 minutes?

I'd also do a vacuum check to make sure you don't have a very tiny vacuum leak. On a warm engine at idle, the vacuum should be a rock steady 19 to 21 hG. When you rap the throttle, the vacuum should drop like an anvil. When you slowly feed it gas, the vacuum should build.

 

It would only take 5 min to carefully take the maf sensor out and CAREFULLY clean it with Q-tip and 99% acholol.

I saw no diff when I cleaned mine and I've been running the Stillen for many thousands of miles. But it's worth a shot

 

pcv valve?

 

Check your plenum spacer bolts.

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-forced-induction/180013-check-your-plenum-bolts-if-you-have-spacer.html

 

I cleaned the MAF about 15k miles ago - everything is fine there. The spacer bolts are torqued to spec (no leaks that i can tell of).

I doubt it's a vacuum leak...i can't hear anything and never have. I had a vacuum leak on a turbo golf and it was completely obvious...but i cant hear anything on the VQ.

-Sean

 

...i have no idea? Isnt that something in the engine itself that takes gases from the engine somewhere else?

Not real full of info on the pcv valve?

-Sean

 

check out the write up for the catch can. the feed tube that gets replaced comes out the pcv. you can remove that hose and put your finger over it. if you feel a decently strong vacuum then its working, if not then it has closed up and can sometimes be cleaned or just replaced.

 

A VQ will hardly run if you've got a vacuum leak you can hear. Yank the vacuum tap cover off the front side of the intake manifold and watch what happens if you try to drive with the port open. Some vacuum leaks occur at intake piping fittings when the engine torques to one side and causes leak.

 

check your psv valve with that high of mileage it might be time for a new one