Walbro 255 Installation DIY
Looking for some insight....Nissan recommends changing fuel filter at 100k miles, I just hit 105k. I have horrible gas mileage.
I read that you may as well change the fuel pump while you're in there, what is the consensus on that? I plan to go nitrous some day, do I bother with the Walbro our stay stock?
Thank you
I read that you may as well change the fuel pump while you're in there, what is the consensus on that? I plan to go nitrous some day, do I bother with the Walbro our stay stock?
Thank you
If I'm going for a single turbo and 600cc injectors should I change to the walbro 255. And I'm picking up a turbonetics turbo everything but tuner, fuel pump and gauges. Is this a good deal or to good to be true. He said turbo had only like 3000 miles. But it's just been sitting so piping is kind of rusty. I think I can sand those down and paint them black. Make them look nice. I am also in Florida. And. Don't really know who to trust to do me a good tune. Also wich tuner should I pick up. Ive seen some utec and turbo xs for acoustic hundred and then osiris for like 550
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 117
Likes: 1
From: Puerto Rico
I have the exact same question. My pump seems to have gone bad at 73K miles. Apparently there is low fuel pressure when starting the car.
I just did this and Am looking for the Regulator/Swirl valve mod, if anyone knows where it's at LMK, I can only find the one for the 350z which is different.
I've also got a fuel leak pretty bad below the fuel pump area now, it WAS fine after doing it, so I will have to have a look to see what it could be leaking all of a sudden... seems odd.
I've also got a fuel leak pretty bad below the fuel pump area now, it WAS fine after doing it, so I will have to have a look to see what it could be leaking all of a sudden... seems odd.
I just did this and Am looking for the Regulator/Swirl valve mod, if anyone knows where it's at LMK, I can only find the one for the 350z which is different.
I've also got a fuel leak pretty bad below the fuel pump area now, it WAS fine after doing it, so I will have to have a look to see what it could be leaking all of a sudden... seems odd.
I've also got a fuel leak pretty bad below the fuel pump area now, it WAS fine after doing it, so I will have to have a look to see what it could be leaking all of a sudden... seems odd.
Forgot to chime back in here:
-There is no need to do any swirl modification on the sedan version of the pump. Simply install per these instructions and give-er!
-My personal fuel pressure was a bit higher (57 PSI) but stayed steady throughout the load range, as long as it stays the same it's all good!
-My fuel leak was because I didn't replace the oring around the cover, it split on install, as most seem to do. Hindsight, have a new OEM oring on hand before attempting this job.
Looking for some insight....Nissan recommends changing fuel filter at 100k miles, I just hit 105k. I have horrible gas mileage.
I read that you may as well change the fuel pump while you're in there, what is the consensus on that? I plan to go nitrous some day, do I bother with the Walbro our stay stock?
Thank you
I read that you may as well change the fuel pump while you're in there, what is the consensus on that? I plan to go nitrous some day, do I bother with the Walbro our stay stock?
Thank you
POLARITY!!!
(EDIT: After lots of problems I found out my Walbro was fake. This problem MAY not apply to all pumps. I purchased from a vendor who had no idea he had been given fakes. It's apparently very common.
Personally HIGHLY advise Buying Aeromotive 340 Pumps instead. Basically same price, higher GPM, and just a better pump.
)
I forgot about this, and another member was asking me about my install when I remembered!
This DIY doesn't list it, but the polarity of the WALBRO pump is OPPOSITE the OEM pump.
This means if you simply plug the OEM plug into the Walbro, it will run backwards ( I found out the hard way when the car wouldn't run, despite the pump obviously working)
All you have to do is de-solder the connection where the Black and Red wires go and switch them, no big deal, but you WILL need to do that. The Walbro + and - is clearly marked on the pump where the plug goes in. The OEM wiring is Marked RED = Positive and BLACK = Negative. If they don't match up on the Walbro unit you will need to swap the wires at the solder joints
(EDIT: After lots of problems I found out my Walbro was fake. This problem MAY not apply to all pumps. I purchased from a vendor who had no idea he had been given fakes. It's apparently very common.
Personally HIGHLY advise Buying Aeromotive 340 Pumps instead. Basically same price, higher GPM, and just a better pump.
)
I forgot about this, and another member was asking me about my install when I remembered!
This DIY doesn't list it, but the polarity of the WALBRO pump is OPPOSITE the OEM pump.
This means if you simply plug the OEM plug into the Walbro, it will run backwards ( I found out the hard way when the car wouldn't run, despite the pump obviously working)
All you have to do is de-solder the connection where the Black and Red wires go and switch them, no big deal, but you WILL need to do that. The Walbro + and - is clearly marked on the pump where the plug goes in. The OEM wiring is Marked RED = Positive and BLACK = Negative. If they don't match up on the Walbro unit you will need to swap the wires at the solder joints
Last edited by TunerMax; Feb 4, 2017 at 11:24 AM.
Sorry to dig up a old DIY but did this install on my 03 coupe and it was going fine until i lost pressure i primed the pump it was fine my friend that tunes cars took it apart and said i need a new rubber gromment (the one with the bumps on it) any idea what the part number is...
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 377
Likes: 22
From: York, PA
is it necessary to take out the fuse for the fuel pump and run the car til it shuts off first? to get the fuel out of the line.... i had to do this on my 240sx to change the fuel filter.... for some reason it didnt work on the 200sx