Here's a link to my previous post:

Quick Pics of my upcoming Mods

Well, today I installed my popcharger/z-tube combo and my driver side battery cover. Both were installed with relative ease. The Y-Pipe and Fujitsubo exhaust won't happen until next week. The mountains are calling my name

Popcharger/Z-tube: $192.47 from EverythingG35.com
Battery Cover from www.StrictlyZ.com

6MT Coupe, DG/G, Prem

197713-Collag1.jpg

 

Another Pic

6MT Coupe, DG/G, Prem

197714-collage2.jpg

 

For those who installed the intake yourself, is the gap above normal?

I assume it is because there is no way to form a complete seal. Correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks



197720-Collage3.jpg

 

One other thing, does anybody else's MAF housing touch a piece of metal pipe? Can't seem to get any clearance no matter how I tug and pull at the filter.

Above is a picture. You can see the contact. Any help would be appreciated.

6MT Coupe, DG/G, Prem

197723-118_1839.jpg

 

nice install. I'm trying to order from EverythingG35.com too but they take FOREVER to respond to my emails... (I just asked if they can ship by USPS instead of UPS. sheessh)

I'm wonder if anybody has painted their Popcharger Heat Shield? I don't really like that color it comes in.. doesn't match anything. (and neither does the cone filter but that's a different story)

My question is:
How hot does the heat shield get? would it require high temperature paint?

 

You should go back and finish removing the rest of the old air box...

Phil Petracca

197741-More Air copy.gif

 

Bottom portion of the stock air box

Phil Petracca

197742-Stock Air box collector copy.gif

 

complete stock air box

Phil Petracca

197745-Stock Air Box copy.gif

 

I've installed the Popcharger on my '03 G35c6mt. I found the weather stripping they supplied to go from the air box to the heat shield to be cheap & ugly. This is what I did: I went to a hardware store and bought a "rubber" PVC pipe connector (4") in diameter. On the side it will say 3" (wierd), but measure it & make sure it is 4" in diameter & 4" in length. Look for a clean one. Comes with hose clamps on both ends. Take them off. The plyable ends of the rubber will fit over the air box and into the heat shield. There is a little bend from the air box to heat shield which the rubber will make. The length of the rubber sticks into the heat shield a little, but doesn't bother me. I think the look is more pleasing. When I installed the MAF onto my Z-tube, mine does "not" touch anything metal. I wrap my Z-tube with heat shield material. By the way, I feel that the filter is "Not" oiled when you purchased the Popcharger. I had a K&N oiler from my 300zTT, which I used to oil the filter. I also cut off that edge of weather stripping that goes on top edge of the heat sheild, so now it is a clean peice of stripping on that edge. Hope this helps.

 

You can remove that Gap and get a complete seal. You have to reverse it. What I mean is, you have to have the inner gap facing the opposite direction of the outer gap. (The inner gap would be shielded by the outer tubing) The way you have it set up, both inner and outer gap are on the same side creating a hot air gap way. You DON'T want that gap because that defeats the purpose of the heat shield. Hot engine air will be sucked thru that gap. I hope you understand what I am talking about. Good Luck

"Not all G35 owners are G35 Drivers"
2004 G35 Coupe 6MT-BS/BLK | Full Aero-Navi | Gounding Wires | Clear Corners | 15% tinted windows | 350Z Tube | JWT PopCharger | Front Lip Spoiler on order.....

 

Philthy,
I was wondering about that when I was installing my Popcharger. What did you have to do to remove it? I don't remember seeing any bolts, but I didn't look too hard. If you could make a quick write-up that would be great! Thanks

2003.5 6MT Premium Black Coupe//6-wire G.kit//Al. pedals//PIAA//Borla TD Exhaust//Z-tube//JWT Pop-charger//RT cats

 

Damn you Philthy for pointing out that my disassembly was incomplete.

I PMd and he said it would take only 5 minutes to take out the two screws. Took me about an hour Maybe Philthy knows a secret I don't.

There are two bolts. One you can see by looking down the engine. This bolt can be better accessed if the filter element is removed. It will take you awhile if you have an open end 10 mm wrench. If you had the right length socket, the job might be quicker.

The second bolt is harder to access, but easier to remove. You need to turn the driver's front wheel toward the passenger side. This will give you better access to the wheel liner. I removed 2 screws and four clips to remove part of the wheel liner. Once you open it up, you'll see which bolt needs removing.

I removed this bolt first to allow some wiggle room and then removed the other bolt mentioned in the third paragraph.

Like I said, it took me about an hour to get the damn bolts out.

Good luck.

I also re-adjusted the filter connection to the MAF housing. Now I have some clearance and my rubbing issue is no longer there. Also re-aligned the rubber pieces to minimize the gap, but it is impossible to form a complete seal.

Hope this helps

6MT Coupe, DG/G, Prem