There is naturally aspirated potential locked away in this engine but to get at it we need custom cams. I am trying to find someone who has the capability to regrind to custom specs on the vq35 cams. Webb cams is supposedly at the top when it comes to imports ($250 per cam). Looking for someone who will do it cheaper.

 

There are a lot of cam choices out there from mild to extreme. I think most of the range is covered between JWT, Crower and GTM.

As far as custom, talk to Sam at GTM, he might do it for you. You can also ask QuadCam, he is having custom ones made somewhere.

 

The VG cams are real good from the factory.
You might try retarding them a few degrees.

You can also pull them out and have them re-cut to your specs, Plus plan to replace the cam buckets at the same time.

I'm real happy how mine came out. 107 mph in the 1/4 mile @ 4400 ft.

Any good cam maker can blueprint your cams, Installing them is the tricky part. Getting them degreed in is so vital. Watch out for the over-lap in big cams, will kill your drivability. Fast lift with about 109-112 degrees of over-lap seems to do the trick with the VQ.

 

Shawn Church advanced my cam timing a bit with Osiris... Pasta, can you elaborate and retarding the cam timing over advancing...

 

Advancing will move your power band lower, retarding will move peak HP, up in the rpm's
Advancing cams is a great Idea for tuning a strip car with an automatic transmission.
The VQ's exhaust valves are degreed in with a lot of advance, Its my guess that is done to hold exhaust gasses in to be re burned. The VQ's have no EGR valve or system in place for this. Another reason headers show no benefits. Overlap is the time in degrees that the intake and exhaust valves are of there seats at the same time.
When you can lower the timing curve of overlap you can build more static compression.
Cams run at half the speed of the crankshaft, an advance in the intake valves will add to drive-ability and also shorten the overlap, (Can make it harder to run more ignition timing) pinging, Blue printed cams are a great idea, The best way to install cams is to find the highest compression reading with a gauge, for the intake valves, And then set your exhaust valves in degrees for the overlap built in from the factory.
I'm running 4 degrees retard (crankshaft timing) on the exhaust valves. The tolerance on the cam buckets was way out of whack from the factory. I'm running .003 tighter clearance than the factory. This does add to lift & duration.
Install was very time consuming. Great results without lifter chatter, My guess would be peak power has moved up from 6200 rpm's to 6900 rpm's.
I would love to have the time to re-dyno @ churches, Its a 680 mile drive .

 

You can purchase the NISMO Cam Blanks, and get them grinded...

But, I would look at the JWT cams...

 

You can purchase the NISMO Cam Blanks, and get them grinded...

I like this idea.

I have never found a cam shaft or cams that is on spec's
The JWT cams are very close to the timing I'm talking about.

 

What are you looking for?

 

great info, thanks Pasta!... I might be doing cams & headers in the near future... I hope I can find this thread when the time comes.

 

The reason for the regrind instead of buying whats out there.

We had the crank stroked as far as we could without having to notch the piston too much (4 liters). Sent the notched piston to cp to get a set made. Opened the head to match the increased displacement and now need to put some more duration in to really make it run.

looking to add 15 deg duration and .050 lift over stock.
If Im getting them ground, I can get exactly what Im looking for.

 

What about the BC cams made to go with their 4.15 stroker kit? Those might be more what you are looking for.